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Discussion Starter #1
I have my autox wheels/tires for sale in my SIG, however, if these do not sell......I've been thinking of an alternative.

My intentions were to goto 10.5" wheels all around with 315's. However, if these don't sell I was wondering about applying the money I would've spent towards a Maximum K-member package. It would be a tad more than I'd like to spend, but given that it would be a prooven/worthwhile mod I think I could budget that.

Soooo..... 315's all around, or a K-member package(K-member, arms, springs, struts).

Thanks for any/all help.

P.S. If someone wants to pick up my wheel/tire combo for sale, it'd make my decision for me. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So what you're trying to say is you wan ANOTHER "overweight, underpowered C-Prepared 02 GT" to run with/against? :)

Maybe I can slap a set of longtube headers on there while all that crap is down. I mean, for weight savings, not extra power. ;)
 

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2k2GT said:
So what you're trying to say is you wan ANOTHER "overweight, underpowered C-Prepared 02 GT" to run with/against? :)

Maybe I can slap a set of longtube headers on there while all that crap is down. I mean, for weight savings, not extra power. ;)
Hey, Tony, you said that, I didn't! Besides, I there's already an 89 Mustang LX in CP I run against. Tomorrow I get to compete with a prepared to the limit of the rules 85 Camaro (Carl Couric) in the Florida State Championship. Not only that, but your way up there in Tennis-See. :lol:

But hey, if the proposed K-member rule is approved for 2006 you could still run in SM. :leghump:

Seriously, the K-member kit would take your car to the next level handling wise. FWIW I'm buying 275's when these tires wear out. I think my car handled better and acellerated quicker with the smaller tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well alright man......your word is good. I'll start looking more seriously at a front end package, and checking on labor. I'm not mechanically inclined, and especially do not like working with heavy crap.

If this doesn't make me faster, or I get beat by a guy with 315's all around.......I'm comin' down to your region!!!!!! :pain:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, after calling around and checking things, the labor is really gonna eat me up. I can do shocks/struts things like that. I think it may be time to ditch my super soft Eibach Pro-Kit springs, and go for the MM Coil-over kit with some springs in the 400+ rate range.

There would be no labor charge.....I've had shocks/struts on and off the car before, and this is a system I can still build on to, and not put myself down a dead end street.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I saw that as well. I like things that I can put together as money allows, without being stuck with "what I already bought".
 

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Unless money's or time spent wrenching is no object, its the only way to do mods.

If only Id been as smart when I did my IRS I'd have delrin UCA and LCA bushings instead of being stuck with the stock rubber bushings. dammit haha

You might consider the offset control arms, youll get some more caster with them.
 

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I'm gonna try the 315 thang again in Gainesville tomorrow.
I will have the remaining 2 V710's on front and a pair of Goodyear GS-CS showroom stock tires on rear if they pass tech.

Edit: I sucked at GIR. The Goodyears I had on the rear were hard as bricks and I couldn't put any power to the ground. Tried to floor it one time and it spun the tires up to the rev limiter so it was a drift fest for me. Maybe next year I'll get 4 new 315's and try it again. Till then it's back to 275's on front since I have them.
 

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huesmann said:
Doesn't MM make tubular A-arms for both stock and K-member applications? Different offset or something?
The offset control arms move the lower ball joint (and therefore the wheel)forward 3/4" which in itself is not a problem. The MM K-member moves the lower control arm pickup points forward 3/4" as well. Using the offset control arm in conjunction with the K-member moves the wheel forward in the fenderwell 1.5" which could cause clearance issues. Just something to be aware of.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Glenn said:
Just something to be aware of.
Car is a track whore....it's got cuts/scrapes/bruieses on it already. The fenderwells look like a wheel came loose and got stuck in there. :)
 

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I would do the K-member too, or at least go with the better struts and coilovers. If you go ahead and get the delrin bushed A arms you will still have things that you are going to keep long term. What were you quoted for the K-member labor. I'll have to look back and see what mine was, but it wasn't that bad. Less than the TA/PHB install. Maybe consider doing the TA.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
tnturbo said:
I would do the K-member too, or at least go with the better struts and coilovers. If you go ahead and get the delrin bushed A arms you will still have things that you are going to keep long term. What were you quoted for the K-member labor. I'll have to look back and see what mine was, but it wasn't that bad. Less than the TA/PHB install. Maybe consider doing the TA.
I was quoted "in the neighborhood of 500$. I figure I can buy the coilover package(struts/springs)for less than the K-member kit, and also save the money on install(as I can install them).

I don't think I need/want a torque arm. The rear end has enough bite for me as it is. The car has a tendency to want to push, whereas the back end is doing exactly what I want it to do. I need to increase the front grip and also upgrade to stiffer springs to help me on transitions(like slaloms).

That's where J.Collette in that S2000 eats me alive is in the damn slaloms. My soft springs just lay over and over load the outside wheel way too much.
 
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