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Discussion Starter #1
i am putting a 351w stroker in my car,will never be autocrossed,some road course.i was going to go with a dart based block,but was wondering how bad the extra weight of the dart block is going to hurt the handling compared to the stock 351w block?i know the 302 is better than the 351w for weight,but im at leats wanting to go 351 for the n/a horsepower/torque.car is going to be torque arm/panhard equipped with non-coilover springs 850 rate front/400 rear.
 

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i am putting a 351w stroker in my car,will never be autocrossed,some road course.i was going to go with a dart based block,but was wondering how bad the extra weight of the dart block is going to hurt the handling compared to the stock 351w block?i know the 302 is better than the 351w for weight,but im at leats wanting to go 351 for the n/a horsepower/torque.car is going to be torque arm/panhard equipped with non-coilover springs 850 rate front/400 rear.
Go with a aluminum windsor block for around $1500 more
 

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I jumped from a 302 based stroker to a 351 based stroker (347 to 383). I had to change my combo a little bit to account for the additional weight. The biggest issue is that the additional weight on the front tires added to the understeer. I added more rear sway bar to get the car to turn the way I like. The dart 351 block is an honest 210 lbs.

I would do a lot of research and talk with many people who have built an aluminum engine before I pulled the trigger on that.

I read of at least one race team who fully builds their aluminum engines, dyno's them for specified heat cycles then pulls them apart and completely remachines the entire block. Apparently the heat cycles and seasoning of the block change some of the critical dimensions so they go back in to get it back in spec.
 

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If you are just doing an N/A 351W stroker their is no need for a Dart block
stock 351 block will hold 700hp with good internals.


I jumped from a 302 based stroker to a 351 based stroker (347 to 383). I had to change my combo a little bit to account for the additional weight. The biggest issue is that the additional weight on the front tires added to the understeer. I added more rear sway bar to get the car to turn the way I like. The dart 351 block is an honest 210 lbs.

I would do a lot of research and talk with many people who have built an aluminum engine before I pulled the trigger on that.

I read of at least one race team who fully builds their aluminum engines, dyno's them for specified heat cycles then pulls them apart and completely remachines the entire block. Apparently the heat cycles and seasoning of the block change some of the critical dimensions so they go back in to get it back in spec.
Aluminum expands and contracts due to heat a LOT more than steel.
When dealing in thousands of inches in piston sidewall and deck clearances and such
it can be a factor for sure.
 

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If you are just doing an N/A 351W stroker their is no need for a Dart block
stock 351 block will hold 700hp with good internals.
That's what I was thinking. Unless you're trying to build a real monster there's no need to go with a Dart block and its added weight.

For a bit of added strength with the stock blocks get an old ('69-74) 351W block.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
not going to do a aluminum block.i was just looking at the dart sportsman block,which the aluminum block is alot more$.the reson for the dart block isnt the strength,its the ability for a 4.125 bore for more cubic inches,plus the clevland size mains for less heat.
 

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If you aren't looking for big inches the 4.125 8.2 deck Dart will get you a heck of a quick revving 363 without the weight penalty of the 351 block.
 

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How much heavier is the Dart Sportsman block compared with a stock 5.0 ('87-93) block?
 

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If you aren't looking for big inches the 4.125 8.2 deck Dart will get you a heck of a quick revving 363 without the weight penalty of the 351 block.
What he said. This is what I built and it makes a real nice motor.

DaveW
 
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