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Discussion Starter #1
Went back to the track tonight after doing Team Z relocated uppers. Made 11 passes. All of which were pretty terrible. 60s between 1.8-2.0. Most of them in the mid 1.8 range. Best time to date was before the uppers, one pass out of eight that went 11.88 @ 116 with a 1.74 60'. The rest of my passes that night were also in the 1.8-1.9 range.

This is with a Hoosier QTP 26x9.5 on a 15. 170 lb hypercoil coil overs in the front, C spring in the back. Strange adjustables front and rear. Tried playing with them and ended up leaving the fronts at full loose and the rears at 3 from full loose. Pinion angle set to -1.3 degrees. Started with tires aired at 16 and lowered them to 13. Skinnies up front. Maximum Motorsports HD weight jacker LCAs.

Launching off two step was an epic fail. Tried 5500, then 5k, then 4500, then 4k, then went all the way down to 3200 and it still just blows first off. Tried launching around 3000r's with out the two step and minimal throttle. Tried sidestepping, tried just dumping and also tried slowly dumping and no luck. Car weighs about 2800lbs with me in it. Nothing too crazy, stock bottom end, trick flow heads, fti cam, track heat intake.

I wish there was someone local who could help me set this thing up or something. Its driving me nuts, my buddy has his two step set to 5k and sidesteps the clutch and dead hooks with eibach drag springs and lakewoods struts and shocks. Track prep is definately part of it but if other people are hooking than what the heck. Im running out of ideas/patience!! lol


I hope Dave Z chimes in here, every time i try to call its usually past normal hours. Somebody school me on ride height/instant center, etc!

Please help!!
 

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It would take me a while to school you on how to set up your suspension. Those rear spri ga are way too stiff. Dave is gonna tell you that those lower control arms are for a dirt track car lol. I used to use Griggs lower control arms that were adjustable and while I could get me dialed in pretty good I swapped to teamz double adjustable lowers that had a fixed height spring cup and then swapped to stock gt springs with 1 coil cut off. My car took very little fine tunning after that. My suggestion is get a set of stock gt springs cut one coil off an try that. You may give some serious thought to getting some new lower control arms also. I got rid of a $500 set of Griggs lower control arms for the teamz lowers and my 60' dropped.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Rear c spring rates are the same as stock I thought just slighter shorter

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Your rear springs are WAY too stiff...

Find some stock V8 springs, cut a single coil off and it will have an aswesome ride height and hook better.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I always thought the spring rate was the same, no? I tried looking for used stockers but nothing was available when I had the rear out. I figured the weight jackers would give me ability to adjust ride height to compensate for not having a stock spring and cutting it.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you don't want the ass end to squat right? So would there be an advantage to a softer spring in the rear? I was under the impression you want the front to come up and transfer but squat is a bad thing



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It may be that more weight is needed in the rear end of the car. My car will dead hook when I have the spare and jack in the hatch and I spin without it. I have Team Z adjustable upper and lowers, ABR, 2000 convertible rear springs, 50/50 shocks, 275/60/R15 MT.
 

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C springs are not the same rate. Goto the junk yar and grab a set of v8 rear springs then cut one coil off. It will make a huge difference.
 

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what track?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Island drag way. It was Friday night and no track prep basically. Lots of cars running street tires. Lots of ricers front wheel drive rolling water out of the box too. But my buddies lx was cutting 1.6s with antiquated Lakewood's and eibachs


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1.6-1.7 should be no problem even on crappy preps...Your springs are killing you.
 

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I would try it again on a sunday when there are some big tired cars out there...should give you abetter idea of where you're at...
 

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It may be that more weight is needed in the rear end of the car. My car will dead hook when I have the spare and jack in the hatch and I spin without it. I have Team Z adjustable upper and lowers, ABR, 2000 convertible rear springs, 50/50 shocks, 275/60/R15 MT.
Explain how weight over the in the trunk gets the rear end to seperate better and hit the tire harder?
 

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How old are the tires ? They can look great but if they are old they get hard and will not hook. and I agree about the springs. A few changes and you should be hooking up in no time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
They were new last fall and up until the other night i think they had 7 passes total on them.

This whole spring thing has me even more confused. Everything Ive researched and found says that 84 1/2-93 GT rear springs are 200-300lb rate springs. Which is what the c spring rears are. The fronts are way stiffer yes, but i ditched those and am running a 170lb coilover. Maybe i found bad information or something Im not sure.
 

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You're actual rate may be the same, but the lowering spring are going to ride much stiffer cause their are alot more coils wound up in there. So you rear will not bounce at all, its solid and your shock the rear tires too much. Lowering springs are the worst spring ever for drag racing, way to stiff.

The stock springs will allow the car to sqat some and transfer that energy into the car hooking instead of just shocking them with all the power at once. Having a equal rate on each side and allowing the car to squat just enough to trasnfer that energey into the tires softly will make the car hook harder.

Ever wonder why lowering springs feel like your ride on a flat piece of metal when you hit a bump? Cause they do not give very much, maybe 1" before they bottom out and press back up.
 

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Have you tried adding more pinion angle. 4 link cars like 3-4. With 1 degree when you shock the tires the pinion climbs the ring gear unloading the tires.....Might want to try that. Alot cheaper than buying parts that "might" help your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The car has all solid bushings I was told to set it between -1 and -1.5
 

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The car has all solid bushings I was told to set it between -1 and -1.5
IMO I would put the car on blocks all the way around so you can get underneath it at ride height and set it to 3 and see what happens. If its blowing the tires off on ititial hit tire pressure, track prep, and pinion angle would be the first things to check for me.

Good luck guy, its always a pain watching people 60' with some cheap setup and your blowing the tires off with a decent one.
 

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I would never set my pinion angle at -3 with solid bushings. I run -1.5 and I hook :) every car I set up with all solid bushings I set to -1.5 and they hook. You have to get the IS, AS and CG correct.
 
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