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Hello everyone. I bought a stock 92. Collecting parts for it right now, but I figured I needed to start doing some mods before I do others. So, been out of the field for a little bit, but is there a subframe connector that is better than the rest? I want to put those on before I relocate the battery and run new fuel lines. Any other mods that are ideal? Planning for a 363 Novi 2K auto combo. Will be competing in NMCA West once I get everything out together.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did Wolfe thru the floor on my coupe. Fit great.
So do these go under the car on in the car? Trying understand the install process.
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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I've had maximum motorsports full length sub frames installed on 2 foxes and 1 sn95 mustang. Everytime ive had it done, i wonder how i lived without them. My current car is a 4cyl conversion car and it really felt rattly/loose and i had a set welded in. made all the difference in the world.

just my 2c.
 

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Don't forget to get a Wildrides battle box kit if you are going drag racing. Cheep insurance for your torq boxes.
 

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Im curious about the Stifflers FIT system ones, I believe KB had some like this previously as well? Maybe they still do?





 

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I did MM. The went on without to much trouble. The only thing is you lose about 2" when you're crawling around when your car is on jack stands.. It doesn't sound like a lot, but it is. However, they are great to use for your jack stands with a piece of 1"x2"
 

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The stifflers parts look Great! Used upr on my latest car but favorite from the past is the kb stuff. the jacking rails make it very convenient. How does the Stifflers mount/follow to the pinch weld area is it welded somewhere and i missed it?
 

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Im curious about the Stifflers FIT system ones, I believe KB had some like this previously as well? Maybe they still do?







was the KB Matrix brace... took awhile to install with all the welding but damn were they nice
 

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The Kenny Brown kits always intrigued me but I've always spent good money and time shredding weight off my cars that they never really fit into my goals. They do look nice though and probably would provide a little bit more support then the steeda and maximum motorsport full lengths I've used but I wasn't ready to suffer the weight cost.
 

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The Kenny Brown kits always intrigued me but I've always spent good money and time shredding weight off my cars that they never really fit into my goals. They do look nice though and probably would provide a little bit more support then the steeda and maximum motorsport full lengths I've used but I wasn't ready to suffer the weight cost.
normally i agree get things as light as you can but added chassis stiffness never hurts things.
 
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The Kenny Brown kits always intrigued me but I've always spent good money and time shredding weight off my cars that they never really fit into my goals. They do look nice though and probably would provide a little bit more support then the steeda and maximum motorsport full lengths I've used but I wasn't ready to suffer the weight cost.
^^^. I have no idea what kind of ET and MPH you'll be running with that combo, but safe to say you'll be needing a bar (go 8 point if you do) or a cage if in the 9's. And if you can afford Moly, then by all means do so. Before adding all that weight with subframes that look like the Tappan Zee bridge, I'd see how the bar or cage stiffens the chassis. And 5X on the battle boxes, welded in. Rip those torque boxes very, very bad. Between a Moly cage and a good Anti roll bar, I wouldn't think the car would twist much. Just a thought.
 

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hindsight being what it is, if i were doing it over i would do through floor. x2 on tq box reinforcing. Others came chime in but I believe bolted and welded is the way to go in that department.
 

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hindsight being what it is, if i were doing it over i would do through floor. x2 on tq box reinforcing. Others came chime in but I believe bolted and welded is the way to go in that department.
Yes, bolt them in to get them tight and correct location. I had to do just a little grinding in spots to get them to fit properly. Once I had them all bolted in, I had them MIG welded in, along with some other pinch weld seams in the vicinity. When you start working in that area, you come to realize that our chassis are a tin can meant to support 300 rwhp on the street with street tires.
 
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