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Discussion Starter #1
I need some more power for pretty cheap so I'm thinking about getting me a bottle. Which is safer for a car, the wet or dry? I am gonna get a 100 shot. On the dry kits, how does the extra fuel get in the cylinders when the nos is being sprayed? Burn a chip or what? Well, whatever. When I buy a KIT, what do i need that does NOT come in the kit?
 

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since you have a cobra, go with a wet kit. this kit will make much more power than a comparable dry kit...both are the same when it comes to safety(in your case). just add a bottle heater, purge, window switch, fuel pressure safety switch, and nitrous gauge and you will be all set. you wont need a tune unless you want to dial it in good. i would recommend getting the inline fuel pump to augment your intank pump if you plan on going above a 75 shot. more fuel the better with nitrous. also, go with some colder plugs like autolite or ngk tr-6 both gapped at .040". good luck with your newfound addiction!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Awesome, thanks. That is EXACTLY what I wanted to hear. 'Preciate it.
 

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no problem...if you have any install questions, PM me or nosmod2v. we both have installed quite a few kits. try to use some imagination when it comes to the install. there are so many things you can do to make your setup trick...like a progressive nitrous controller and a hidden switch panel.
 

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if you do not want to go back with your 4.30s, i have some low mileage 4.10s i will trade you for your 3.73s. i will send you the 4.10s when you get ready to do the swap, and then just send me the 3.73s when you get them out. and sell teh 4.30s and use that to add to your nitrous fix!
 

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Jared Rude said:
I like the dry kits personally. They are safer, and built correctly, make just as much or more power than a wet kit.
no flames, but every car that i have seen with a wet kit has put down more power than the cars with a dry kit..all other mods the same.
 

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Honestly, that's probably because the guys with the dry kits didn't know what they were doing. People typically don't understand nitrous very well, and therefore buy wet kits because they think the wet kit is better.

My dry kit, stock 5.0 engine, 175 hp jets, 424 rwhp, 540 ft-lbs of torque. N/A it was 244 rwhp, 280 ft-lbs torque.
 

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wow, great numbers! stock bottom end?
here is an example that i can remember...brother and his friend. one has 97 cobra with 297rwhp and the other has a 96 cobra with 303rwhp. the one with the 97 has a wetkit and the 96 has the 5171 dry kit. with both running the 150 shot, the wet kit made 27 more rwhp and 50 more rwtq the day they were dyno tuned! i also remember some posts on here about some GTs with wetkits putting down more power than the drykits GTs...maybe the pushrod motors react differently to spray?
 

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Thanks. Yeah, stock bottom end, stock heads, stock intake, stock cam, etc.

The dry kits typically run a little rich also. You can screw around with the fuel bypass jet size and get some more power out of them. Also, swapping the stock -4 line supplied from NOS to a -6 line size picks up a little as well. From there, a Big Shot solenoid and the sky is the limit with a dry kit (or 350 hp worth of nitrous, whichever comes first. :) ). Limited by injector size of course. I had 24's in the car when it made that power and I was running lean at the torque peak. Initially I'm planning on running a more modified version of that same dry kit in my Real Street car. Plan on spraying around 250 hp dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Stroked or blown:
I might just take you up on that offer, whenever I get enough money to do it, I am gonna switch out the gears. Would the 4.30's be too steap with nitrous? If it wouldn't, that would have so much freakin' torque. Any ideas?
 

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WickedSlowbra here is a reason that a Drykit is better than a wetkit, It is not a opinion it is just a straight up fact. 1st most DryKits are made specifically to each vehicle the application is for, not a universal kit like most the wet systems are. My point here is that the shot might say 150 but if you put that same shot on a Honda Civic I promise you will get more HP that 150 and your gonna also have a nice little BBQ. ( This could be why sometimes wetkit results vary and people who run a wetkit see better results) The next and most important reason is that FORD MUSTANG intakes have very long runners, this increases the chances that fuel will puddle. If you look at the way Fogger Systems are designed they all spray as close to the intake ports on heads as possible. A Big shot sprays right before the intake port on head so it goes directly into combustion chamber as a atomized mixture not running thru intake where small atoms of fuel seperate from N20 creating droplets. When these droplets puddle in the intake thats when a backfire occurs. Now here are the results I picked up on my car, it is highly modified but here you go. On the 125 Shot I had a increase on 116 HP 225 TQ at the rear wheels. When I increased it to 150 I only picked up 123HP 232TQ at the rear wheels.

Dyno numbers at time were
265RWHP 300RWTQ NA
381RWHP 525RWTQ 125 Shot
387RWHP 532RWTQ 150 shot
These Numbers were with Ported SVO Heads, SVO Intake on Stock Shortblock
BTW ET on this combo was [email protected] on 125 shot

Hope this helps
John
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So on a dry kit, how does the extra fuel get into the mixture? I'm just curious how it doesn't go lean. On a wet kit, its just mixed together, maybe its just that simple on the dry kits too and i'm just an idiot. Well, anyways... I'm just wondering where the extra fuel is coming from.
 

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no flames, but every car that i have seen with a wet kit has put down more power than the cars with a dry kit..all other mods the same.

gotta disagree... I consistently put down 440rwhp/460rwtq with only 800psi on the bottle, I'm using the JMS/Compucar Dry Kit. I was putting down this power before I added the ported intake. With a hot bottle (1000psi, JMS recommends 900) I pulled 483rwhp/532rwtq off the 125jet. I'm getting approximately 130rwhp/160rwtq off the 125 jet @ 800psi. All I bought extra was NGK plugs, the Autologic chip, retards the timing, sets the spark and boosts fuel pressure. A/F looked ok per Chris. The ONLY problem I had was freezing the MAF which I solved by installing the Densecharger CAI and moving the spray point into the fender well.
 

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Bad Pony said:

I pulled 483rwhp/532rwtq off the 125jet. I'm getting approximately 130rwhp/160rwtq off the 125 jet @ 800psi
So you are saying is your car made 353rwhp N/A?? Your sig says 312, where did the extra 41 hp come from N/A? No flame intended, just curious.
 

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I ran both the NOS 5171 and the NX Wet System. I'm basically running the NX System now with a few NOS parts (solenoid, bottle, and lines). I prefer the NX System. Never had a problem. I've run both 50 jets and 100 jets. I dropped down to a 50 shot after the headswap just to take it easy. I've run as low as 850psi, and as high as 1200psi. No problems yet. Hopefully never will have any. The puddling problem is generally only a problem if you inject Nitrous under 3000RPM. Set it with a window switch and wide open throttle switch and you'll be much safer.

BTW I just dynoed on a 50 shot last weekend. 304.4rwhp/375.7rwtq with everything you see in the sig on a 50 shot. I was very pleased with the numbers as I make ~255rwhp/~290-300rwtq N/A.
 
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