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Discussion Starter #1
When do you need to switch from 3/8" to 7/16" rocker studs?

I have AFR 185 Renegade heads with 3/8" rocker studs.

AFR recommends 7/16" because "3/8" studs occasionally break", but for some reason sells them with 3/8".

I plan on running a fairly mild cam and doubt I will be going over 6000 rpm.

At what point are 7/16" studs realistically needed?

Thanks
Ken
 

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The thing is you dont "need" the 7/16 studs....but, there is no down side to having them. The more the valve train is stabilized the better. The valve events are more accurate, especially at higher rpms. This extends valve spring life as well. If it is in the budget, do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The thing is you dont "need" the 7/16 studs....but, there is no down side to having them. The more the valve train is stabilized the better. The valve events are more accurate, especially at higher rpms. This extends valve spring life as well. If it is in the budget, do it.
Once again, thank you for your help.

I'll get them.

Well, at least I can narrow my search to 7/16" roller rockers. Only decision is 1:6 or 1:7 to 1

Thanks again
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Discussion Starter #7
Those fit under the stock vale covers.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/rockr-arms/year/1992/make/ford/engine-size/5-0l-302/engine-family/ford-small-block-windsor?N=400114+4294951399+4294950101+4294918318+4294918304e

It says will ship today.
Interesting that the 1.6 ratio ones are about 1/2 the cost of the 1.7 ratio.
For some reason, I am unable to find the Comp Cam #1134-16 stainless rocker on the Summit site. I can see several other options, but not the High Tech stainless #1134 or even the 3/8" #1133
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Check out Scorpion roller rockers, good price and quality.
I have seen them advertised and they seem to be fairly priced.

A lot has changed since I was in the market for high performance parts 35-40 years ago. I need to learn what is good and what names in performance parts have traded their quality for a few more beans in their pockets. Bean counters couldn't care less if they quality drops as long as the money keeps coming in.

Thank you
Ken
 

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Cannot go wrong with scorpion. Get the part number and type it into Amazon. If it's cheaper summit will match and beat it by a dollar. I saved $45 once on a set of scorpion rockers for my Ford as well as $75 on a cam. Summit can't be beat.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cannot go wrong with scorpion. Get the part number and type it into Amazon. If it's cheaper summit will match and beat it by a dollar. I saved $45 once on a set of scorpion rockers for my Ford as well as $75 on a cam. Summit can't be beat.
Thank you for the tip!

I may need to buy the TB, rockers and new roller lifters all at once.

My lifters don't have many miles on them, but they are 29 years old. Not sure if they can be trusted.

Thanks again.
Ken
 

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I had 2 of the 3/8 ones that come on AFR heads break. Go gorilla and get 7/16 more selection of rockers that way also. I put race series Scorpion 1.82's on my engine. Nice thing is they are one of the quieter roller rockers I have heard also.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I had 2 of the 3/8 ones that come on AFR heads break. Go gorilla and get 7/16 more selection of rockers that way also. I put race series Scorpion 1.82's on my engine. Nice thing is they are one of the quieter roller rockers I have heard also.
Going into the AFR head, is the 3/8 and 7/16 the same size?
Or saying it another way, can I just remove the 3/8 stud and install the 7/16 stud or do I need to drill and tap for the larger stud?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The best only throttle body you should get is Accufab. Don't cheap out. These are the best hands down.
I'm really thinking about buying a 90mm TB, but I'm concerned about the touchiness of the throttle without being progressive.

Almost makes me think about running dual 75mm and making them progressive.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Match the opening of your upper plenum. If it's 75, get a 75mm throttle body. Just make it Accufab.
The Flowzilla has a 90mm openings, I just need to find a 90mm that has a progressive cam or something else to make it progressive.
 

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Going into the AFR head, is the 3/8 and 7/16 the same size?
Or saying it another way, can I just remove the 3/8 stud and install the 7/16 stud or do I need to drill and tap for the larger stud?
Yes the part that screws into the head is exactly the same. There is nothing to do but remove the old ones and screw in the new ones. You do need to use sealer on the ones that go into the intake runners though.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes the part that screws into the head is exactly the same. There is nothing to do but remove the old ones and screw in the new ones. You do need to use sealer on the ones that go into the intake runners though.
Thanks,
It's been decades since I had to do anything with studs and that was for the iron Chevy heads with pressed in studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
When the 3/8" studs break, where do they break at?
Is it where the rocker is or do they shear off where the stud goes into the head?

Thanks
Ken
 
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