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Discussion Starter #1
cars making 416whp 414 wtq and is procharged.

My question is what rear suspension/ gear setup is best to get an awesome 60ft?

side notes

Car is on mickey thompsons ( 16-19 psi)

i am launching off of an msd 2-step

*all rear suspenion is stock*

im hitting 1.8 60ft as of now
 

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Teamz makes some bad ass suspensions. You said you want an awesome 60'. Call Dave and drop some coin on his stuff. It works.

You want double adjustable lowers, relocated uppers, anti roll bar and strange 10 way rear shocks out back. Up front you want coil overs with strange 10 way struts. Dave will give you the spring length and rate that will work best with your car. A k-member and tubular arms will help ahead some weight off the nose to help with weight transfer also.
 

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Tubular K
Tubular A-Arms
14" 175lb Coil Over's
Solid lowers
Adjustable uppers

Pretty much what i had back when i was in the 1.6 range with 285WHP, best on motor was a 1.61. Have a lot of new stuff now and 20whp more, have yet to take it back to the track with the new suspension mods.
 

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What Mickey Thompsons?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for all of the feedback so far. I will be spending some money soon it seems lol

To answer your question they are et streets
 

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Personally, I would not throw a ton of money at it just yet. It seems to me that a 1.8 60' with a bias ply tire is indicative that something else is amiss. The LTD was pulling 1.8's with a totally stock suspension and BFG R1s (road racing tire) on it. MikeLTDLX on here is running high 1.6's in his 2012 GT with nothing more than slicks, skinnies and some lower (non-relocated) control arms - he's even still got the front sway bar. Heck, my brother was running 1.7's on crappy Nittos, all stock with an airbag in a 1997 WS6 T/A. If you must throw some cash at it, do adjustable front struts (I picked up .08 in the 60' with no other changes) and skinnies if you don't already have them.

Then try all kinds of different driving techniques. Are you spinning out of the hole? Current rear gear? You should be at least in the high 1.6's with just the tires...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Personally, I would not throw a ton of money at it just yet. It seems to me that a 1.8 60' with a bias ply tire is indicative that something else is amiss. The LTD was pulling 1.8's with a totally stock suspension and BFG R1s (road racing tire) on it. MikeLTDLX on here is running high 1.6's in his 2012 GT with nothing more than slicks, skinnies and some lower (non-relocated) control arms - he's even still got the front sway bar. Heck, my brother was running 1.7's on crappy Nittos, all stock with an airbag in a 1997 WS6 T/A. If you must throw some cash at it, do adjustable front struts (I picked up .08 in the 60' with no other changes) and skinnies if you don't already have them.

Then try all kinds of different driving techniques. Are you spinning out of the hole? Current rear gear? You should be at least in the high 1.6's with just the tires...

yea im spinning all of first and im putting heat in the tires so they are plenty sticky.

no I dont have skinnies on the front and dont plan on that. this car is mainly a weekend warrior just wanna get this car to squat and go.

here was my thoughts and im glad that there has been good imput on this so far.

solid sperichal bushings for the 8.8
adjustable uppers
solid lowers
with the Qa1 front and rear coilover setup.

My gears are stock as of now.

im crossing the 1/4 just going into 4th gear.

im thinking i need 3.55's or 3.73's
 

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Don't need spherical bushings and get a gear in that thing!
 

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Stock gears will make it hard to launch that thing - you won't be able to modulate the power as well. It'll be either spin or bog. That's the first thing I would do. Adjustable uppers won't actually improve your 60' times unless your pinion angle is off; and if it's a stock rear setup, that's unlikely. Now if you go solid/harder bushings, you'll have less deflection and require less pinion angle; that's when adjustables come into play. Relocated uppers, on the other hand, will move your i/c back and increase anti-squat. You actually don't want the car to squat in the back - ideally, you want no squat and no rise, assuming the tires are about perfect for the car/power level.

I know you said you don't want skinnies, but trust me - the first time your car really starts to sway, you'll want them. Not only will they help your ET, but they'll help minimize the radial/bias ply mismatch, which can lead to instability. Things can get out of control in a hurry with full size radials in the front and bias plies in the rear.

For a gear recommendation, we'd need to know where your hp peak is - any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Stock gears will make it hard to launch that thing - you won't be able to modulate the power as well. It'll be either spin or bog. That's the first thing I would do. Adjustable uppers won't actually improve your 60' times unless your pinion angle is off; and if it's a stock rear setup, that's unlikely. Now if you go solid/harder bushings, you'll have less deflection and require less pinion angle; that's when adjustables come into play. Relocated uppers, on the other hand, will move your i/c back and increase anti-squat. You actually don't want the car to squat in the back - ideally, you want no squat and no rise, assuming the tires are about perfect for the car/power level.

I know you said you don't want skinnies, but trust me - the first time your car really starts to sway, you'll want them. Not only will they help your ET, but they'll help minimize the radial/bias ply mismatch, which can lead to instability. Things can get out of control in a hurry with full size radials in the front and bias plies in the rear.

For a gear recommendation, we'd need to know where your hp peak is - any ideas?


my hp peak is 5500 rpm
 

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You're kinda in between a 3.73 and a 4.10. If you think you might wanna go faster in the future, go with the 3.73s.

I'm assuming a 26" tall tire here. Or you might go 4.10's and if you get faster down the road, you could always go with a 28" tire. Here's the calculator I like to use:

http://www.f-body.org/gears/
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You're kinda in between a 3.73 and a 4.10. If you think you might wanna go faster in the future, go with the 3.73s.

I'm assuming a 26" tall tire here. Or you might go 4.10's and if you get faster down the road, you could always go with a 28" tire. Here's the calculator I like to use:

http://www.f-body.org/gears/
The problem with the 4.10's is i will run out of gear before i hit full boost So im guessing the 3.73 is what im going to be getting

not sure how tall the tire is. been a while lol
 

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What kind of 60' times would you like to get?

Once you start getting better traction with tires and replacing a few suspension parts the times really do start to fall. The best time I cut on the stock rear suspension with Nitto's was 1.9's. My best so far has been 1.66 and thats with strange shocks/struts, coil overs, MM Lower control Arms and stock uppers with lowering springs with MT Slicks. I currently have stock springs cut 1 coil and team Z double adjustable uppers. Hoping for some 1.5's this year.
 
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