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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
what have any of you been able set you car up using the Stock cc plates??

i was reading the write-up i found when i did a search, and it said to just max out caster, and i have no problem figuring out camber and toe..

i'd like to run -2 camber and 0 toe..

please bear with me because i've never done this before..

once i have the car level.. i just loosen the three bolts on the strut mount,

and for caster i just move the plate as far FORWARD as it can go?

for negative camber i should move the plate down towards the engine?

so basically i know i can't get a whole lot out of the stock ccplates but i essentially want to move them as far forward and then almost as far down as i can???

from there i can set the toe no problem... i've done that when changing tie-rods, bump-steer kits a few times.

i would just like to make sure i've got it right before i start cranking away.
i want to try some different things and see what kind of feedback i can get.

thanks guys.
matt
 

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matt'sdrag95 said:
i'd like to run -2 camber and 0 toe..
Good luck. I highly doubt you can get -1* out of the stock plates, much less - 2*. It will take camber bolts or aftermarket cc plates.

Once i have the car level.. i just loosen the three bolts on the strut mount and for caster i just move the plate as far FORWARD as it can go?
First off...you can't adjust caster with the stockers. With aftermarket pieces you would adjust the caster by moving the struts towards the firewall.

for negative camber i should move the plate down towards the engine?
Yes.

i would just like to make sure i've got it right before i start cranking away. i want to try some different things and see what kind of feedback i can get.
Do a search for "caster camber" and use "MFE" under the username. There's plenty to read and educate yourself with the threads that will show up.

Get some MM cc plates and be done with it.
 

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Yeah, don't mess around and go ahead and get the MM plates. I messed up and got the Steeda 3 bolt plates. The best I could do with them is -2.5* of camber and had to use a plasma cutter to lengthen the slots on top of the strut tower to get that. I found out real quick I could use even more negative camber.
 

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Parsons said:
Yeah, don't mess around and go ahead and get the MM plates. I messed up and got the Steeda 3 bolt plates. The best I could do with them is -2.5* of camber and had to use a plasma cutter to lengthen the slots on top of the strut tower to get that. I found out real quick I could use even more negative camber.

Hmmm. I can only get -2* on my fox with MM plates and I had to enlarge the strut hole to keep it from hitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
sydhawk said:
I run -3.5*, zero toe, with no CC plates, and no mods to the strut tower.

see THAT's what i'm talking about...

i'm just going to loosen the stock mount and move it as far down as i can and see what i can get..

if i can't get what i'd like then i'll have to buy some CC plates sooner than i was planning..

thanks guys.
matt
 

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sydhawk said:
I run -3.5*, zero toe, with no CC plates, and no mods to the strut tower.

Yeah, but you're Canadian. Is that -3.5* C of F? J/K

Apparently camber capabilities vary year to year as Ford varied control arm length and the location of the strut towers.
 

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It's got nothing to do with different years. All my adjustments, for camber, are made at the bottom, not the top. I still have room to adjust for even more negative at the top.
 

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sydhawk said:
It's got nothing to do with different years. All my adjustments, for camber, are made at the bottom, not the top. I still have room to adjust for even more negative at the top.

You didn't say you were running camber bolts, are you? Control arm length and K memeber width will determine camber capability, and those have changed considerably over the years.
 

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92MNstanger said:
You didn't say you were running camber bolts. Control arm length and K memeber width will determine camber capability, and those have changed considerably over the years.
I didn't say I was running camber bolts, cuz I'm not. I don't even know what they are. There's ways of getting camber without adding anything, or spending cash.Yes control arms changed slightly, but not enuff to give you a ton of negative.
 

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sydhawk said:
I didn't say I was running camber bolts, cuz I'm not. I don't even know what they are. There's ways of getting camber without adding anything, or spending cash.Yes control arms changed slightly, but not enuff to give you a ton of negative.
I guess I have a differrnt definitin of slightly. To me an inch is a lot.


Care to enlighten us on your magic?
 

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Balljoints also make a difference. I now have X2 balljoints and I have lost almost a full degree of static camber (and some caster) from when I used the stock balljoints.

Right height will also make a difference in range as the control arm will be at different points in its arch at difference ride heights.
 

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sydhawk said:
I run -3.5*, zero toe, with no CC plates, and no mods to the strut tower.
How easy is it to adjust it back to a reasonable camber setting for the street?

92MNstanger said:
Hmmm. I can only get -2* on my fox with MM plates and I had to enlarge the strut hole to keep it from hitting.
I have a '96 Cobra and according to MM's install directions for the '94 up CC plates, you can get up to -3.25* of negative camber out of them. I'd like to try at least -3* because I still get excessive outer edge wear with max negative camber and 4* of caster on a certain track I go to pretty regularly. Besides, I'll be installing coilovers eventually and will need the 4 bolt plates anyway.
 
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