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Discussion Starter #1
Setup:
90 Hatch
408w dyno'd 660hp, 500 torque on the engine dyno
PA C4 Super Comp WITH TRANSBRAKE
28x10" Hoosier Slicks
UPR UCA
Wolfe ARB
non-adjustable LCA (being replaced by team z stuff, already have
lakewood 50/50 shocks
reinforced torque boxes
moly k-member, a-arms, coil overs with 150# springs
full certified cage
weight with driver is 2950#

I want to know what RPM you would launch at if it were your car. I haven't figure out with only having a few runs whether the 4200 limit RMP chip is too low or too high... I havent had been to the track with anyone that could tell me if I'm bogging or spinning.

I'll be at Englishtown this weekend and needed some advice before... let's say noon.

Thanks,
David
 

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depends on how loose the converter is.

I foot brake mine to 3k and have been 1.3739
The car is faster with the trans brake valve body on the shelf and the rev man in the car.

Tim
 

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Ya depends on your stall, I launch it about 300-500 rpm below the stall, the old boys at the track call it zinging it which means letting it snap up to the stall speed when you launch. This worked pretty good for a 500 cubic inch Dart I crewed on.
Len
 

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Discussion Starter #5
update from the track!!!

I tried something different. I did a longer burnout that I have done with the 1.8 and 2.0 60' times. I used the 4600rpm chip and left on the t-brake. My best 60' to date... 1.49! Here's the f'd up part: the steering locked hard and I was heading for the wall and I stopped 6" from hitting it. That was very frightening. I havea manual rack, what could have caused this and where should I look?

I'm afraid to go back in case this happens again. Once I jacked the front up, the wheels steering broke loose. The wheels spin fine, its the steering. It locked up to where there was absolutely no play, best way to describe it is trying to turn a locktite'd nut, no play in the wheel whatsoever.

Thanks all for your feedback, thinking about using the 4800 rev limit chip on the 2-step.

Thanks, David
 

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I tried something different. I did a longer burnout that I have done with the 1.8 and 2.0 60' times. I used the 4600rpm chip and left on the t-brake. My best 60' to date... 1.49! Here's the f'd up part: the steering locked hard and I was heading for the wall and I stopped 6" from hitting it. That was very frightening. I havea manual rack, what could have caused this and where should I look?

I'm afraid to go back in case this happens again. Once I jacked the front up, the wheels steering broke loose. The wheels spin fine, its the steering. It locked up to where there was absolutely no play, best way to describe it is trying to turn a locktite'd nut, no play in the wheel whatsoever.

Thanks all for your feedback, thinking about using the 4800 rev limit chip on the 2-step.

Thanks, David
So did you have an extra pair of underwear............... Smelly ride home if not. Ya you better get that fixed before you go again. How close is your steering shaft to your headers, I've seen the knuckle hit the header tube, when the engine torques up it could be causing your problem.
 

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It depends on the car, carb, gear, dia of the converter, the car is going to have to really work well. It is all about testing. I would not go out first hit and hit it really hard unless you have driven a car in the air before.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So did you have an extra pair of underwear............... Smelly ride home if not. Ya you better get that fixed before you go again. How close is your steering shaft to your headers, I've seen the knuckle hit the header tube, when the engine torques up it could be causing your problem.
I have a good retention device, works real well! LOL

Interesting... I missed a huge opportunity to verify if the steering worked after the car stopped and the engine was off. I do know, however that up until the car actuall came to a hault, the steering wheel was still locked. Also, obviously, this car uses no key, and there are no mechanisms in the stock column. I am using a home-made, welded up shaft, not a flaming river piece or another aftermarket shaft and I am wondering this shaft needs to be replaced. I'll post a picture of the shaft bends, the kuckle placement vs. the headers.

Also... a little embarrassing, frustrating and PO'd at myself... I pulled into my garage, then decided to back out and wash the sap off before It sits... what an idiot... I completely spaced on the hatch still being open. For some reason, it didn't hit on the way in... but... it wasnt pretty. I was able to bend it back and close it, but where it bent, the paint is chipped and the metal bent on both sides. What turned out to be a decent day I really screwed up. I wasn't upset at the steering or the valve cover gasket going... hell, my short time was not too shabby, and I knew what was coming next time I was able to make a full pass.

Yours truly,
Schmuck
 

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I just installed a new 8" with a 5500 stall. We are testing it from 3800 and going up in 200 rpm incriments. Problem is the tires are about done so we stopped at 4400. It is picking up a bit each time we go up. Will have to go back with some new tires and give it a go again.
 

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I had a similar thing happen with the steering and never did find anything.I think it may have been a bind with the headers which I was able to get some more clearance on.Bummer about the hatch.When I was into bikes friends would occasionally leave their bikes on the roof racks,forget about them and drive into the garage peeling the bikes of the racks.
What kind of et/mph are you getting?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I had a similar thing happen with the steering and never did find anything.I think it may have been a bind with the headers which I was able to get some more clearance on.Bummer about the hatch.When I was into bikes friends would occasionally leave their bikes on the roof racks,forget about them and drive into the garage peeling the bikes of the racks.
What kind of et/mph are you getting?
Hey, thanks for the reply and sympathy!!! LOL

I am having a hard time finding solid mounts. The UPR are crap, they arent close to fitting. I bought the Moroso mounts, but I do not have the motor brackets that are required for the install. What do I do?

Last year, my ET was 10.6 at 133 with a 1.8 short time. When I launched this time, I was down to a 1.49 short time, with street suspension out back. I am swapping out the BBK LCA with Team Z stuff and later, the UCA from Team Z, but for now, tI have a good pair of solid adjustable UCA.
 

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I leave at 3000 off the foot. Just have to see what works. More is not always better.
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I leave at 3000 off the foot. Just have to see what works. More is not always better.
Tim
I went from a 1.8, leaving at 4000 to a 1.49 leaving at 4600. It's a high 9-second car, so I'm still off on the 60' time. I used to dump the clutch on my 11-sec daily driver at 5000+ and the tires held, trans held... the rear eventually didn't. :)
 

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You'll just have to play with it and see what the car likes. Some cars like leaving off the footbrake like Tim's, some like leaving off the t-brake.

My car likes both LOL. Since I mostly run indexes, I use the 2 step and launch rpm more to control traction when the track is slick and to control reaction times. The higher I can launch it, the quicker my R/T is.

I have a 427 with a 4400 stall and it seems to like 4200 on the 2 step for best all around. In 95 degree heat a couple weeks ago it went 1.45 sixty and a [email protected] mph letting off and peddling it since its a 6.60 index and I was a full car out on the other guy by reaction time (Oh hea, .032 on the .400 tree). It would have been a high 6.4 pass at around 105-106. On a later pass it went 1.49 sixty, [email protected] This was at 2950 lbs again in 95 degree heat! Can't wait til cool weather comes around!!
 
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