Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,083 Posts
I use the old style fuel pressure regulator boost controllers you can buy on ebay for less than $20. Been using them for years on several hundred vehicles never once had an issue. I usually take off all the crap digital ones and toss them on its simple easy and problem free.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
489 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Budget few hundred .But a good one for cheaper is allways good as well.I will check the ones on ebay for $20.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,967 Posts
The pneumatic gain of the wastegate, which is dependent on the ratio of valve size to dome diaphragm size, is as much or more important than the type of controller.

If the gate has a large diaphragm area compared to valve area, the spring and dome will have much more boost stability than a lesser ratio.

The minimum gate valve size depends heavily on the turbine flow.

Because I ran a T4 1.25 A/R with a 96mm turbine inducer I could use a single RG-45 gate to dial boost anywhere from 13 or so pounds up to 30 psi. Just applying fixed CO2 on top of the dome allowed me to dial boost within one or two pounds of target.

When I changed to a bigger Turbosmart gate that has a smaller dome diaphragm, my control went to pieces. I went back to the RG-45.

Now I changed to a TiAL V-band housing 102 mm inducer turbine. The turbo drive to boost pressure ratio dropped from 2.2:1 at high boost down to 1.7:1 or less. Because turbine flow is so much better across all boost ranges and my newer compressor is so good, I can no longer pull high RPM boost below 20 psi even with zero dome (a 10 lb spring).

I've just added a second RG-45 gate in an attempt to get the system back in control.
I have to get the gate system to be able to dump off enough exhaust to slow the compressor down. Since I'm adding a second gate like the first, the system pneumatic gain (ratio of diaphragm area to gate vlave area) will not change. This should get the turbo back under control.

The important point in all this is the basic gate has to be of good design, which means a large diaphragm area to valve area, or control will be poor no matter what system you use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
486 Posts
Holley to control boost, also using Viair self contained to apply pressure to the dome on the gates.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
698 Posts
Aem Truboost is what I use
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Went with the AMS-1000 after our tuner recommended it and after online research seeing a lot of people saying it’s the best to get.
Sadly have had the same frustrating mystery issue from the start. It seems like in a certain rpm window or just the right vibration maybe the entire controller will restart showing the screen that comes on when you turn it on, causing the car to lose all boost and start spooling again. It’s so intermittent that it’s hard to pin point. Re-wired it several times even being guided by their employees over the phone, tried a new MAP sensor that they sent us and still having the problem. Almost seems like we woulda been better off with a few hundred dollar AEM one instead of the 1k $ ams
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,126 Posts
Went with the AMS-1000 after our tuner recommended it and after online research seeing a lot of people saying it’s the best to get.
Sadly have had the same frustrating mystery issue from the start. It seems like in a certain rpm window or just the right vibration maybe the entire controller will restart showing the screen that comes on when you turn it on, causing the car to lose all boost and start spooling again. It’s so intermittent that it’s hard to pin point. Re-wired it several times even being guided by their employees over the phone, tried a new MAP sensor that they sent us and still having the problem. Almost seems like we woulda been better off with a few hundred dollar AEM one instead of the 1k $ ams
Sounds like a wiring issue, like the power being changed to the controller when "?" is energized. If you have wired the controllers to the exact same electrical contact(s) or circuits you'll have the same issue no matter which controller you use. I would rewire the controller using totally different electrical points. Something is probably turning on at that point and giving the controller a power surge or ??.

ks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Went with the AMS-1000 after our tuner recommended it and after online research seeing a lot of people saying it’s the best to get.
Sadly have had the same frustrating mystery issue from the start. It seems like in a certain rpm window or just the right vibration maybe the entire controller will restart showing the screen that comes on when you turn it on, causing the car to lose all boost and start spooling again. It’s so intermittent that it’s hard to pin point. Re-wired it several times even being guided by their employees over the phone, tried a new MAP sensor that they sent us and still having the problem. Almost seems like we woulda been better off with a few hundred dollar AEM one instead of the 1k $ ams
Sounds like a wiring issue, like the power being changed to the controller when "?" is energized. If you have wired the controllers to the exact same electrical contact(s) or circuits you'll have the same issue no matter which controller you use. I would rewire the controller using totally different electrical points. Something is probably turning on at that point and giving the controller a power surge or ??.

ks
Tried all new wiring, switches, new harness coming off map sensor from AMS, metered the power going in and didn’t surge or drop
Off. The car is a 2003 mustang cobra terminator. It’s mounted where the factory radio would be on a little plastic panel that we made to fit in there. It doesn’t do it at WOT strictly, so random it’s insane
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top