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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
One of my buddies lives just up the street from my dad, he has a set of car scales. Since we painted my car at my dads and it was there anyway, I pulled it out of the paint room and ran it up to his house to stick it on the scales. Here's what we found....total weight with me in it, 3004 lbs.

Left front 920
right front 872
left rear 609
right rear 603

That comes out to a front back bias of 59.7% front, 40.3% rear, and a total left/right bias of 50.9% left, 49.1% right. I'm attributing the left front being "heavy" because I have about a 1/4 turn of preload in the right rear antiroll bar down link.

These numbers were with the car "ready to race". About 2 gallons of fuel, tires inflated to the proper psi. How do these numbers stack up/look? I'd like to get it closer to 50/50 front to back, but I don't know how to get much more weight off the front.

I was having traction problems last time out, but I had the ride height adjusted low in the front and I think it was effecting weight transfer. I did adjust the ride height back up to level or just slightly nose high, thats where I scaled it.

I also checked my strut travel and came out with almost exactly 3 inches of travel (fender lip at ride height vs fender lip height with the front jacked up in the middle with the tire just scrubbing the ground). Does that sound like a good amount of travel or should I be looking for more?


Picture of new "cheapie" paint job


link to more pics
http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1134748
 

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Wow, that's more nose heavy than my Terminator swapped car with T-56. The more weight you can take off the front end the better it will launch.
 

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Can you move the motor back any? You will need more than 3" of travel with that weight bias.......

Mind you, I run a heavy nose also, 57/43 bias in my avatar.....:D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Can you move the motor back any? You will need more than 3" of travel with that weight bias.......

Mind you, I run a heavy nose also, 57/43 bias in my avatar.....:D
a future mod is an aftermarket k-member, probably not till next year (winter project), and i hope to get at least an inch setback on the motor with that. all the weight savings off the front are gonna take more $$$ than I have right now (k-member and manual rack).

I've only run the car across the track scales in the past , never checked the front/back bias or corner weights before. last fall the car weighed 3110 with me in it, and it hooked well, real consistent mid 1.5's 60 foot times. The things I changed over the winter in an attempt to improve performance are the following....transbrake valvebody w/2-step, 14" 150# front coilover springs, swapped the factory driver seat for a light weight race seat, removed stock tank for a 5 gal fuel cell. Dropped right at 100lbs overall. battery is already in the trunk.

I've had the car to the track twice this year so far (1/8th mile). First time I had defective shifter trouble. 2nd time out I had traction problems, but I completly had a stupid moment and didn't think to adjust the ride height. When I installed the coilovers, I set the ride height with a downward rake in the front, planned to drop the height in the back but didn't get to it. I should've raised the ride height back up in the front when I went to the track, I'm sure it effected my weight transfer and traction, that along with the utter Pi$$ poor lack of track prep (everyone was having problems hooking). I did raise it back up before we put it on the corner scales, I'm still surprised it's so nose heavy.

I'm heading to the track next friday to give it another try. I'm going to take some ballast weight to try and even the car out if need be.

Although it looks "cool", I'm not looking to pull the wheels like your avatar. I'd probably end up with alot of broken and smashed shi... I mean "stuff".
 

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a future mod is an aftermarket k-member, probably not till next year (winter project), and i hope to get at least an inch setback on the motor with that. all the weight savings off the front are gonna take more $$$ than I have right now (k-member and manual rack).

I've only run the car across the track scales in the past , never checked the front/back bias or corner weights before. last fall the car weighed 3110 with me in it, and it hooked well, real consistent mid 1.5's 60 foot times. The things I changed over the winter in an attempt to improve performance are the following....transbrake valvebody w/2-step, 14" 150# front coilover springs, swapped the factory driver seat for a light weight race seat, removed stock tank for a 5 gal fuel cell. Dropped right at 100lbs overall. battery is already in the trunk.

I've had the car to the track twice this year so far (1/8th mile). First time I had defective shifter trouble. 2nd time out I had traction problems, but I completly had a stupid moment and didn't think to adjust the ride height. When I installed the coilovers, I set the ride height with a downward rake in the front, planned to drop the height in the back but didn't get to it. I should've raised the ride height back up in the front when I went to the track, I'm sure it effected my weight transfer and traction, that along with the utter Pi$$ poor lack of track prep (everyone was having problems hooking). I did raise it back up before we put it on the corner scales, I'm still surprised it's so nose heavy.

I'm heading to the track next friday to give it another try. I'm going to take some ballast weight to try and even the car out if need be.

Although it looks "cool", I'm not looking to pull the wheels like your avatar. I'd probably end up with alot of broken and smashed shi... I mean "stuff".

You seem to be finding out what happens when you take weight off the back, instead of the front...........it can be a waste of time, as all the weight you removed, you now will lose in traction......

K-member/rack is a good start....:)
 
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