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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
so my car has always sat much lower in the back driver side than the back passenger side. mostly a quarter of an inch. now i think its worse.

car has a road and track box (bilstein hd's, road and track springs, poly bushings everywhere, k member brace, ect.), minus the panhard bar, torque arm, and solid steering shaft. and the rear control arms are extreme duty adjustables.

the front has poly isolators in the springs, and sits a tad lower on the driver side. maybe 1/8th of an inch difference.

the rear, right now measures a quarter inch lower on the driver side, but thats with my adjustable control arms maxed out on the driver side, and bottomed out on the passenger side. if i set them equal, i think its like 3/8s to a half inch difference, ill match them up today and measure.

i've tried measuring on different surfaces and all that too.

now to my knowledge its always done this, and when i had my griggs lower subframes done i had a very reputable mustang shop (Performance Auto Sport in Richmond, VA) install them. they of course did them on the lift, on its tires.

ive had the rear upper control arm bushings replaced with stock replacements, and im about out of things to do.

i have a friend who's dad has installed many roll cages, and subframe connectors in mustangs. he says the back halves of these cars can sag to one side or the other allot of the time, and that then when my subframes were welded in it of course seized it in that position. he does this in a garage where the floor isn't level, so he says he puts the car on jack stands, measures it all up, make sure the stands have the car completely straight, then he welds them in. he says that this will straighten out the car.

only thing i can think of is that i rear ended someone a while back, and its shifted my front end a little. but its always sat lower. i do plan on fixing the front end also.

so should i get mm full length subframes and have this guy redo my lower subframe connectors? or is it still big no no to weld in subframes when the car is not on its tires?

only other thing i can think of is that the panhard bar will straighten out my rear end from side to side. from what i understand it works like an adjustable track bar on jeeps, it moves the axle to the passenger or driver side. so should i order a phb, and a battery relocate to put it in the back passenger side, and then see where im at?

soon i will level out my rear control arms and measure again.

also, id like to lower the front a little bit, what is the best way to do that, get oem isolators? or can i just pull the bottom iso out, and wrap the bottom of the coil with electrical tape a couple times?

thanks guys, looking forward to a response.
 

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I had a foxbody like that before as well and it drove me nuts. I can't wait to see what the fix is for your car so I can do the same if it happens to my convertible.
 

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My brief odyssey on my notorious Fox chassis "lean" experience. Car is an 86 GT vert. I've owned it since 90; no accidents. I put C springs on it almost immediately and found the P/S to be higher than the D/S. Switched springs, clocked etc. Could not get it any closer than .5". Then I discovered the use of spring isolators to adjust height. With the right combination of rubber and/or poly, and clocking I got it to within .125" side to side. Then went to C/O on the front and changed rears to H&R super race and could not get the rear P/S any closer than .5" to the D/S. Major frustration. Decided to buy MM's height adjustable LCA to fix this for good. But like you, getting it even required adjusing one all in and the other nearly all out. While messing with this I discovered that the body-side spring seat on the P/S was deformed substantially; apprently from the factory. This deformation caused the P/S spriing to sit lower (raising that side) in relation to the other. To correct for this, I used a thick poly iso on the D/S and a cut down (to fit around the deformation) stock rubber iso on the P/S. With this combo and the MM arms adjusted, I'm now dead even with maybe .5" difference in the MM adjusters. Current ride height: F-25.125"; R-25.5". HTH
 

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Coilovers in front and at least height-adjustable LCA's in the rear. Problem solved. People with cars like these can chase their tails forever with shims and conventional springs and end up nowhere but the poorhouse.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thats good advice about the spring perch.

i thought if you had the adjustable control arms different or a differnet stack of isos it would throw off the spring rate on each side? or is that something that is to miniscule to notice?`
 

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Yes, it changes the corner weights which is important if you're hard-core into cornering or launching. A properly corner-weighted fox-body mustang is very often not "level" and if you level one like that, you'll throw off the weights. But you're going to do that regardless if you add shims, change spring lengths, etc. It could be way off right as it sits, no way to know without putting it on the scales.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so is there any way to get the car checked to see if the whole car itself is twisted? how can i measure to see if the rear axle is out of line with the body? like if a phb would help?

what should i do about the front ride height, remove lower iso and wrap in elec. tape?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
still chasing this down. nearly everything under the car is new, upper ca bushings, lower ca's, the list goes on and on. i did figure out that my axle is pushed over to the passenger side 3/8ths of an inch, i dont think fixing that will fix my ride height issue but should make it look more square. im afraid if i put a PHB on it and move the axle where it needs to be, ill be causing a bind, anyone know of how to shove an axle over without a PHB?
 

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still chasing this down. nearly everything under the car is new, upper ca bushings, lower ca's, the list goes on and on. i did figure out that my axle is pushed over to the passenger side 3/8ths of an inch, i dont think fixing that will fix my ride height issue but should make it look more square. im afraid if i put a PHB on it and move the axle where it needs to be, ill be causing a bind, anyone know of how to shove an axle over without a PHB?
It really sucks chasing this issue doesn't it!!! It drives me crazy. Did you try tightning one side of your front sway bar and loosening the other side? It actually works depending how far out of whack your ride height issue is.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
never heard that one. ill give it a shot i guess, but ive been doing little tricks here and there and none have helped so far.
 
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