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Formerly known as jbj302
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here is the link to the instructions for your download needs. They were written by Stang94GT about a year ago. I've had them for a while. After talking with Dedicatated5.0 and reading the thread he posted about him rebuilding his S-Trim, we decided that we should post some instructions, along with part#'s that he has posted to provide everyone that wants to try to rebuild their own Vortech Supercharger with the info. to do so. Listed below the link is a few things that Dedicated5.0 felt should be changed, but there was no way to edit the .pdf file. Try this at your own risk, as either myself nor anyone else involved will be held responsible

http://www.iamflip.com/images/supercharger_rebuild (I recommend you save these to your hard drive, because I have a buddy of mine hosting them, and he may make a mistake and move them one day. At least until I get my own website and can host them myself)

Here's the tweek to the instructions that Dedicated5.0 wanted to add:

• When he talks about removing the compressor nut he states that it is a Left Hand Thread. That is correct for the standard-rotation blowers on 5.0s. On the reverse blowers that are on the 4.6 cars it is a regular Right Hand Thread.

• When he talks about using a “cone” to guide the shaft into the seal. That is not a bad idea, but I don’t think that it is really necessary. Using some assembly lube or oil to lube the seal and shaft should to the trick just fine. I’ve never seen a “cone” use to install oil seals before.

• When he talks about installing the compressor wheel he says that using the impact will tighten the bolt and help push it down the rest of the way. I agree, but he should have added that you need to make sure that compressor wheel is seated flush with the case. If it’s not, when you put the volute back on the compressor wheel could scrape against it.

• The seals he used are not the best for the application. The have an exposed metal case and one of them is a single-lip. Those are not the best features for sealing. The seals I used had a rubber covered case and both are a double-lip design. Much better features for sealing.

• The bearings he used for the high-speed side are incorrect. They are standard radial ball bearings. He should have used the high-speed angular contact ABEC 7 bearings that I posted in my thread.

• Lastly, he did not mention this (because he didn’t use the right bearings) that you have to note which way the high-speed bearings are situated on the shaft. They are angular contact style. That means they are designed to handle thrust loads in only one direction. That is why Vortech uses a pair of them facing opposite directions on the shaft, preloaded by the wave washer. That is the typical way that these kinds of bearings are designed to be used.

• The pictures that show the boxes that the bearings came in are reversed. Not that it really maters too much since he used the wrong bearings for the high-speed side anyway.


Here is a parts list.
Provided by Dedicated5.0

These items can be picked up from any industrial distributor (Applied Industrial Technologies, Motion Industries, Kaman, Grainger, etc…) Don't just take the first price they give you. Most of these companies will come down on price pretty easy.

Low Speed Side:

1 seal – Chicago Rawhide 9776

2 bearings – SKF 6205JEM
Alternatives are:
MRC 205S
Fafner 205K
F..A..G 6205.C3
BCA 205NC3
SNR 6205.J30
KOYO 6205C3

High Speed Side:

1 seal – Chicago Rawhide 6428

1 matched set bearings – SKF 7003CD/P4ADGA
Alternatives are:
MRC 103KRDS-BKE#7
Fafner 2MM9103WI DUL
F.A.G B7003CB.T.P4S.DUL
SNR 7003.CV.DU.J74
NTN 7003CT1GD2/GNP4
NSK 7003CTYDULP4


Below stated by Dedicated5.0:

I did not replace the o-ring that seals the case. It was in good shape so I soaked it in tranny fluid to swell it a little. Any of the distributors above should be able to match it for you. I would recommend using a brown Viton o-ring instead of the Buna one vortech uses. Viton is a higher temp material that would most likely hold up better than the standard Buna

Enjoy! :)

I want to say thanks to Dedicated5.0 and Stang94GT for this great info. they have provided, and thanks to my buddy oleflippy for hosting the link.
 

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I'll edit the file and send it to Dedicated when I get a chance, probably in the next week or so. I've had about 4000 miles or so since the blower rebuild and so far no problems.

I used the "cone" to install the seal because it is spring loaded. Using only lube may cause the seal to bend or fold during installation. In fact, that's what I did when I put my blower back together the first time. After discovering that I had screwed the ID of the seal, I re-used the original seal with the installation sleeve.

If I recall correctly, the seals I used were identical (visually) to the seals that came out of the blower. Dedicated's seals may be better but I have no leakage issues to date. The leak I had was a misdiagnosed leak from my oil feed line.

I'm not in the bearing business so I don't know better. In what direction should the thrust bearings be situated? If anyone has some pics of these bearings and wouldn't mind emailing them to me I'll incorporate them into my writeup.

Curious, why would you use thrust bearings and then position them opposite of each other? I would think that you would experience thrust in only one direction and that the bearings would then be placed in the same direction. The only thrust loading that the high speed shaft sees is from the compressor wheel. On the low speed side, it would be from the belt. Does the low speed not use a thrust bearing as well?

The pics for the bearings are correctly labeled, text goes with the pics above them =P

If anyone's done a teardown of an SQ or of the 4.6l blower I'd appreciate some pics too. My email is [email protected].
 

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Stang94GT said:
I'll edit the file and send it to Dedicated when I get a chance, probably in the next week or so. I've had about 4000 miles or so since the blower rebuild and so far no problems.

I used the "cone" to install the seal because it is spring loaded. Using only lube may cause the seal to bend or fold during installation. In fact, that's what I did when I put my blower back together the first time. After discovering that I had screwed the ID of the seal, I re-used the original seal with the installation sleeve.

If I recall correctly, the seals I used were identical (visually) to the seals that came out of the blower. Dedicated's seals may be better but I have no leakage issues to date. The leak I had was a misdiagnosed leak from my oil feed line.

I'm not in the bearing business so I don't know better. In what direction should the thrust bearings be situated? If anyone has some pics of these bearings and wouldn't mind emailing them to me I'll incorporate them into my writeup.

Curious, why would you use thrust bearings and then position them opposite of each other? I would think that you would experience thrust in only one direction and that the bearings would then be placed in the same direction. The only thrust loading that the high speed shaft sees is from the compressor wheel. On the low speed side, it would be from the belt. Does the low speed not use a thrust bearing as well?

The pics for the bearings are correctly labeled, text goes with the pics above them =P

If anyone's done a teardown of an SQ or of the 4.6l blower I'd appreciate some pics too. My email is [email protected].
I have the old high-speed bearings that I removed. I'll get some pics this weekend. They are clearly marked with part numbers that indicate an ABEC 7 precision angular contact bearing. They are also marked on one side with the word "thrust" This tells you which direction the bearing is designed to take thrust loads (note that all brands don’t bother to mark them because they assume that the installer knows what they are doing). These bearings are rated for 60,000 to 80,000 rpm (depending on the brand) with oil lubrication.

A single angular contact bearing cannot take any radial load at all. That is why they are mounted in pairs facing in opposite directions (sometimes facing each other, sometimes facing away from each other). When assembled in this fashion, together a pair will handle a significant amount of radial load plus the high thrust loads they are designed for. Regardless of what I say here, make sure you note the orientation of them on the shaft before they are removed so the new bearings can be installed correctly.

According to the SKF catalog the 6003JEM bearings that you used on the high-speed side are only rated for 18,000 max rpm with oil lubrication. It is designed to primarily take radial loads with only a small amount of thrust load allowed. That is why they are called “Radial” bearings. They are definitely not designed for a high-speed blower shaft spinning to 50,000 rpm!

The 6003JEM that you used might last a while on an occasional use car, or even a daily driver that never sees more that 3500-4000 rpm. However, they are on borrowed time regardless of how the car is driven. I would yank those bearings out of there quick!

The low-speed side of the blower will see much lower speeds and mostly radial loads from the belt pulling down on the pulley. The high-speed side will see a combination of thrust and radial loads. The radial load come from the gears trying to push apart from each other. The thrust loads come from the impeller trying to push it’s way out the side of the blower case.

I don’t like the seals you used for three reasons. First, they have an exposed metal case that can rust. The seals I used have a rubber-covered case that is sealed from the elements. Second, they put a green colored coating on the OD that is designed to scrape off when you install them to help seal against the housing. I wouldn’t want any of the crap to flake off during installation and get into the blower. Third, one of the seals you used has only a single lip for sealing against the shaft. I much prefer the double lip designs that seal much better.

I think you did a good job on your write-up. The pics are good and I love the drawings you did, they really look great. I just wanted to let everyone know that there were a few mistakes that needed to be corrected. Please don’t take any of this personally. I know folks who have been in the industry for years that still don’t get it. :)
 

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First off, no offense taken. I welcome the education. I went through my teardown pics and noticed one where the bearing clearly states "THRUST" on it as well. I looked at bearings many years ago and it's starting to slowly come back to me. Your reasoning for matched thrust bearings sounds familiar.

Sounds to me like I'll have to get in line for one of these bearing kits you're putting together.
 

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Formerly known as jbj302
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Discussion Starter #10
this is what I like to see. Brilliant minds working together. If you two work out the details, then I'll get the link replaced with the new blue-printed instructions that Stang94GT is going to edit the old ones with. Thanks guys for your time and work.
 

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Stang94GT said:
First off, no offense taken. I welcome the education. I went through my teardown pics and noticed one where the bearing clearly states "THRUST" on it as well. I looked at bearings many years ago and it's starting to slowly come back to me. Your reasoning for matched thrust bearings sounds familiar.

Sounds to me like I'll have to get in line for one of these bearing kits you're putting together.
Cool, glad to hear it. It's great working with folks who have an open mind. I sent you a PM with some additional info. Let me know if you want a hand editing the instructions. I'd be happy to help.

jbj302 said:
this is what I like to see. Brilliant minds working together. If you two work out the details, then I'll get the link replaced with the new blue-printed instructions that Stang94GT is going to edit the old ones with. Thanks guys for your time and work.
Brilliant??? I know you're not talking about me!

Thanks again for getting that hosted. Hopefully we'll have a revised copy ready soon.
 

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I'll post up a new update once I get your bearings and rebuild the blower with the revised instructions. If anyone has pictures for the 4.6l blower that would be cool to include as well.

Thanks!
 

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WOW... I know a lot of work went into this soo......thank you, thank you, thank you!!!:joy:
 

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thanks for all the info guy's!!! does this rebuild refer to the standard rebuild/berings or the heavy duty units designed to run cog's?

thanks,
billy
 
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