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Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys,

I'm having a hard time finding a good set of valve cover bolts. The covers are ford racing, I believe the taller ones.

The valve cover gaskets keep leaking, they are the blue fel-pro ones.

Picture isn't the best, sorry. The oil cap hole is a push in style which leads me to believe it's not for standard 87-83 5.0 mustangs.

 

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Arp valve cover studs. They make an extra long set. I don’t mess with the bolts anymore.
 

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I had a set of valve covers identical to yours. They indeed appear to be the correct ones for 86-93 models.I can tell they're for the efi models because of the port on the oil filler neck,that the crankcase fresh air vent tube connects to.If they were for a carbed application,that port wouldn't be present.One thing I noticed though that I wanted to mention is your choice of oil cap.I cant tell from the picture,but does that cap have a breather filter built into it?? If yes and if you're still running a pcv valve in the lower intake with a vacuum hose attached to the intake,your creating a vacuum leak with that setup.Some cars dont seem to be affected negatively when using this setup,but alot of them are.So if you're experiencing any type of lean condition & a false richening of the fuel mixture (that sometimes makes the car smell like raw gas or increased emissions out of the tailpipes) look no further for the cause and replace it with a sealed cap like a oem type cap.If your valve cover bolts seem to be loose everytime you check them,they might just be loosening up since the torque value is kindof low for valve covers.New bolts is a good idea,but something else that will help is some medium strength Loctite.If you use rtv also,theres no better thing than the Right Stuff.
 

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those blue felpro valve cover gaskets like to weep.

I took Woody's advice and bought the basic black summit valve cover gaskets and haven't had a problem since.


https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/sum-g2321/overview/
I’ve ran the silicone fel pros on almost every engine I’ve had and never had one leak. If everything’s clean when they go on they work great. This is on the thicker cast aluminum valve covers. Stanped steel might be different
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had a set of valve covers identical to yours. They indeed appear to be the correct ones for 86-93 models.I can tell they're for the efi models because of the port on the oil filler neck,that the crankcase fresh air vent tube connects to.If they were for a carbed application,that port wouldn't be present.One thing I noticed though that I wanted to mention is your choice of oil cap.I cant tell from the picture,but does that cap have a breather filter built into it?? If yes and if you're still running a pcv valve in the lower intake with a vacuum hose attached to the intake,your creating a vacuum leak with that setup.Some cars dont seem to be affected negatively when using this setup,but alot of them are.So if you're experiencing any type of lean condition & a false richening of the fuel mixture (that sometimes makes the car smell like raw gas or increased emissions out of the tailpipes) look no further for the cause and replace it with a sealed cap like a oem type cap.If your valve cover bolts seem to be loose everytime you check them,they might just be loosening up since the torque value is kindof low for valve covers.New bolts is a good idea,but something else that will help is some medium strength Loctite.If you use rtv also,theres no better thing than the Right Stuff.
Thanks for the info. I just bought the car and thought the same thing with breather. I talked to some previous owners and they said it's been on for years. But I'll be looking for a stock style oil cap.

I also ordered the Ford Racing rubber/metal valve cover gaskets.

Thanks everyone for the help, I may try arp studs for the valve covers.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had ARP studs and nuts on my old covers. The 6 point nuts were just OK looking to me.
When I got the Ford Racing covers, I grabbed a set of studs and nuts from Trick Flow. Kept the ARP studs, used the 12 pt TF nuts.
Thanks for the pictures, I just ordered the arp stud kit. Are the 12pt nuts necessary, and do they sell just the nuts?
 

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Thanks for the pictures, I just ordered the arp stud kit. Are the 12pt nuts necessary, and do they sell just the nuts?
The 6 point nuts from ARP look pretty good. I bought the TF set becaust I have the 12 pt TF nuts in my upper to lower studs as well as the throttle body studs. I just like the black 12 pt look better than the stainless 6 pt.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the pictures, I just ordered the arp stud kit. Are the 12pt nuts necessary, and do they sell just the nuts?
The 6 point nuts from ARP look pretty good. I bought the TF set becaust I have the 12 pt TF nuts in my upper to lower studs as well as the throttle body studs. I just like the black 12 pt look better than the stainless 6 pt.
Awesome thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Are you guys putting putting any type of loc-tite on the valve cover studs?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay thank you. I've heard some using the medium blue stuff.
 

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