You don't want it to bind either. I just installed mine and did the same thing after jacking it up (rear end hanging). What happened was the links fully retracted and was so vertical that it didn't swing back to its normal position, thus was like solid mounted.
It's all in how you mount it and weld it. If you don't cool the bearings immediately after you take the torch away from your 3/4" stitch weld to cool it, you will melt the bearings. Also, it has to rotate easily before you weld it and afterwards, if it is hard to move, then it is in a bind. It also has to be forward and up as far as it will allow, or it will cause problems. My car goes 1.30 sixty foots with my bar, and I picked up a tenth over my MM unit. It should be adjust so that at full squat it will not hit the trunk pan. Hope all this helps. I had a guy weld mine in for me because I was too busy with a customer's car and ended up having to buy new bearing pieces and cutting out the old stuff and welding in the new myself. It was a hassle. I have installed a bunch of these and they all work perfectly. If you need any other advice, please PM me. Good luck with it and hold on!
I know. The first guy that installed for me, did not know what he was doing. He welded the tabs to high and they kept hitting the trunk. One was actually crooked and kept breaking off.
The next guy welded the tabs straight and lower but the spherical rods bent a little on the top after riding around in the street. Is that ok?
here are the installation instruction for the UPR anti-roll bars (if it works)
1. Raise Car The car should be jacked up and placed on jack stands, or set up on a lift.
2. Prepare for Welding
Hold the Anti-Roll bar and ends in place on the frame rails, as far forward as possible. The plates can be tweaked to conform to the frame. Remove all paint, dirt and grime from the area to be welded.
3. Raise the Anti-Roll bar into place, Tack one side and measure both sides to insure that the bar is parallel to the axle centerline. Tack the other side. Check that the bar pivots freely and weld into place. Then tack around bar ends to prevent heat from warping the plates.
BECAUSE OF THE HIGH QUALITY SEALED BEARINGS USED IN THE ANTI-ROLL BAR KIT, CARE MUST BE TAKEN NOT TO OVERHEAT THE SEALS WHEN WELDING. THIS CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED BY WELDING A SMALL LENGTH AT A TIME (ONE INCH OR SO) AND THEN SPRAYING THE MOUNT WITH A WATER BOTTLE, OR A THOROUGHLY WET, SMALL RAG CAN BE WRAPPED AROUND THE BEARING HOUSING WHILE WELDING.
Adjust the heim joints in the links so that four threads are showing and do not tighten the jam nuts. Screw links into the roll bar with mounting tabs hanging down. Rear end should be hanging freely with the shocks fully extended.
5. Align and Mount Tabs
Check links for alignment to insure squareness. Adjust sway bar height that tabs are on rear of housing, about middle in height. Clean paint off area to be welded. Tack all tabs. Unbolt lower heim joint during welding and weld tabs.
Install all bolts in links and tighten locknuts. Remove jack stands. Check air pressure in tires and make equal. Have driver sit in the car, make sure there is at least 2-3 inches of clearance between the Anti-roll bar and floor. Disconnect lower passenger side heim joint and adjust so it fits in easily and reinstall bolts. UPR believes preload should be put in the upper control arm and thus calls for this neutral setting on the anti-roll bar.
Not to bad for first time I didn’t think.
Back halted with MT 18.5” wide tires, 28”tall
Stroked 351c to 381 ci
234/245 - .625” cam
Ported 4v heads
SVO A351 high port Torker intake
Hooker long tubes
Dynomax mufflers dumper
35 degrees total timing
If there is anyone out there looking to buy the vortech v3-sci (5-6psi) kit for their 86-93 Mustang and wondering how they perform, here's how it has worked out for my car.
My car has a stock long block with the vortech kit as it comes out of the box (3.33/6 pulleys), stock 19lb injectors and...
What’s everyone doing with their foxes on a budget for the strip? I picked up a new project and I have it tore right down to nothing at the moment. My other car I have some parts on and I like how it works but I don’t want to put that kind of money into this one yet. Basically, where should I...
Made it to Sacramento Raceway last night for my first time drag racing and wanted to see where my car was at.
Made 2 passes, best time was 12.79 at 109.6
Need to work on 60 ft which was only a 2.0 but for my first time out ever I am pretty happy!
Gonna try again next week!
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