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Formerly known as 20thAniv
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm very close to finally getting this thing running again and thought some of you guys might like to see what I've done.

Background: A while back, I took the car to the track and the engine started making a ticking noise that didn't sound very good. I built the engine back in '98 and beat on it for MANY miles since that time, so I really couldn't complain about pulling it out and freshening it up. I had also been wanting to build my own turbo kit for a few years now and figured that since I had the engine out, now would be as good a time as any. I have also wanted to clean up the engine compartment since I got the car 10 years ago, so I decided to have a go at that too. Suddenly this engine rebuild turned into a MUCH bigger project!

Here's a picture of the old Cartech Street Sleeper kit that I had. I had some good results with it, but felt I could do better with a more free flowing design. With this kit, the air came out of the compressor and made two 90* bends right away. The IC was horizontally mounted and I don't think it was getting the best airflow through it as well. Before I put my methanol injection setup on it, I saw IATs of 240* with 18 lbs of boost out of a 60mm turbo. The DP also had a VERY tight bend straight out of the turbine housing, which I'm sure was impeding flow and causing more back pressure.



The new turbo kit is going to consist of this:

66mm turbo built by Supernatural Turbo
A/W intercooler from the boys at RPS
oil scavenge pump that I got from John at RPS
3" aluminum intake piping
50mm JGS BOV
FRPP 1 5/8" headers
2" crossover (I built a 2 1/2" one to start, but after changing a few things, it didn't line up very well anymore, so I remade it in 2")
40mm JGS wastegate
3" DP split to two 2 1/2" pipes through Hooker Max Flow mufflers



















 

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Formerly known as 20thAniv
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Discussion Starter #2
Here's how the body work turned out. I had never done any kind of paint or body work before. I just decided, what the hell, lets give it a try. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it came out.

For body filler, I used Evercoat Rage Xtreme and for paint, I used a color called silver birch metallic from TCP Global. A friend brought over his paint gun, helped me set up the spray pattern, and then I went to town.:D

Before:





During:









After:





 

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Formerly known as 20thAniv
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Discussion Starter #3
Since I had it apart, I decided I wanted to redo the powder coating as well. I have been powder coating little stuff here and there for the last few years, so in overall cost, it wasn't much for me to change everything.











I also built a 2 in 1 methanol tank/catch can and powder coated that as well. Here is the tank and also the water tank for the I/C. The tank will hold 7 gal if it's filled completely to the top.





 

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That thing is cool, you are doing some great work...
 

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Formerly known as 20thAniv
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Discussion Starter #6
Here are a few pictures of the rest of the exhaust.

















And the lower radiator hose that I put together.



 

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Formerly known as 20thAniv
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Discussion Starter #7
I made this tranny crossmember for it a while back, when I installed the T56, but after driving it, I noticed that it had WAY too much flexibility to it, so I decided to do something different.





I made some new mounts and welded them in place. Now I can use a factory crossmember. It worked out perfect. Everything is nice an solid now.





 

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Formerly known as 20thAniv
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Discussion Starter #8
I also decided to put some mounts in the back seat so I can put my son's car seat in it. He's 2 1/2 years old and loves my car, so I had to do it.:D

I used a couple 1 3/4" exhaust clamps with some extra nuts and washers and came up with this.





Here are a few of the latest shots. I finally got it back on the ground and rolled it outside for the first time in a VERY long time.











 
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Formerly known as 20thAniv
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Discussion Starter #9
I just looked back through and realized that I didn't show any pictures of my oil return setup. Here is the front bumper I got from Donathan Racing (which fits awesome I might add) and the feed line/return pump.





 

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Formerly known as 20thAniv
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Discussion Starter #10
Here are some pictures of the vacuum lines and solenoid for the boost controller. I have an Apexi AVC-R.



 

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Awesome build and very nice work, but I have to ask...you are not seriously putting your son in the car seat with that crossbar mounted in there, are you?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks guys.

It's not going to happen very often, but yes, I am going to put him in there. When I first put the seat in, I was concerned that the bar was going to be way too close to his legs as well, but after he got in the seat, he actually has quite a bit of room. Before he ever takes a ride, there will be some nice thick roll bar padding on it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, I have a LOT more pictures and explanations about all of the work I've done in the link below. I just wanted to show more of the highlights in this one so I didn't bore everyone and take up more space than necessary.

The inconspicuous '91 Mustang turbo build
 

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I have two words for you. DEAD SEXY!!!!!!

Great work, awesome craftsmanship.

Now I need to tear mine apart and redo it to up the quality of my work. You raced the bar for sure.

Can you tell me which vac line comes from which port on the controller to which section of the W/G?

Also, copper line in the DP goes to what?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks, I'm hoping to get it fired up here very soon and then I'll be able to play with it again.

The line that is coming out of the turbo that Ts into the solenoid, also goes to the lower port of the WG. The other line coming off of the solenoid goes to the top side of the WG. Is that what you were wondering?

The copper line that is in the DP goes to a pressure gauge that I have inside to car and it will tell me what kind of back pressure I'm seeing. I also have the same line in the crossover pipe so I can measure the back pressure vs boost. It's more there as a learning tool for me to see how efficient my turbo kit design is.

One of the main reasons why I wanted to build my own kit in the first place was because I thought I could make one that is more efficient than my old Cartech kit. The problem I had with that kid was that on the exhaust side, there was a VERY sharp bend coming straight out of the turbine housing and then on the compressor side, there were two, back to back, 90* bends basically straight out of the compressor housing. Any time to make the air change direction that abruptly, it's going to slow it down and put more heat in it.

I saw air temps of 240* at the end of a run when I ran it with 18 lbs of boost before I put my methanol kit on it. After the methanol, it dropped them to 150*. Even though that was a HUGE gain, I know I can have them A LOT lower than that now. So I'm very interested to see how it all works out.

I never was able to get back pressure readings with the old kit, but I'm confident that this kit will be lower than what it was before. If that's the case, then the lower back pressure, coupled with lower IATs SHOULD net me just as much power as I was making before, but at a lower boost level. That's my theory anyway.:D
 

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Thanks, I'm hoping to get it fired up here very soon and then I'll be able to play with it again.

The line that is coming out of the turbo that Ts into the solenoid, also goes to the lower port of the WG. The other line coming off of the solenoid goes to the top side of the WG. Is that what you were wondering?

The copper line that is in the DP goes to a pressure gauge that I have inside to car and it will tell me what kind of back pressure I'm seeing. I also have the same line in the crossover pipe so I can measure the back pressure vs boost. It's more there as a learning tool for me to see how efficient my turbo kit design is.

One of the main reasons why I wanted to build my own kit in the first place was because I thought I could make one that is more efficient than my old Cartech kit. The problem I had with that kid was that on the exhaust side, there was a VERY sharp bend coming straight out of the turbine housing and then on the compressor side, there were two, back to back, 90* bends basically straight out of the compressor housing. Any time to make the air change direction that abruptly, it's going to slow it down and put more heat in it.

I saw air temps of 240* at the end of a run when I ran it with 18 lbs of boost before I put my methanol kit on it. After the methanol, it dropped them to 150*. Even though that was a HUGE gain, I know I can have them A LOT lower than that now. So I'm very interested to see how it all works out.

I never was able to get back pressure readings with the old kit, but I'm confident that this kit will be lower than what it was before. If that's the case, then the lower back pressure, coupled with lower IATs SHOULD net me just as much power as I was making before, but at a lower boost level. That's my theory anyway.:D
Yes, exactly. I plumbed mine the way the instructions said....I think. Then my tuner looked at it and said "flip those, they are backwards".

I was over at turboforums and the shanthony thread was talking about hooking it up wrong has the (AEM) boost control solenoid clicking. Well mine is clicking with the key on engine off.

Mine ran great until the battery died one night, cause was a short to the alternator. I charged the battery and the car has NOT ran right since. ugh.
 

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Formerly known as 20thAniv
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Discussion Starter #20
I'm not sure about the clicking while it's not running issue. I haven't run into that one before. Maybe the solenoid is failing. Have you talked with the company yet?

With the Apexi controllers, the way the lines should be run to the solenoid are with the turbo/lower WG port line going to the NC (normally closed) port on the solenoid and the line to the top of the gate on the other side. That way, the pressure goes to the bottom port of the gate, to help push the valve open once you get into boost, but as long as the boost controller is set to a higher boost level than the spring in the WG, the solenoid will remain open, so the boost will also be going to the top of the gate.

As long as there is boost going to the top of the gate, the gate is going to stay closed and the boost will cont to rise.
 
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