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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
with the mark 8 i bought that will be rebuilt as a cobra with forged internals what would be a good compression ratio so i still have good torque at cruising rpms and can still run pump gas (93) and also e85

im probably going to get c heads and a c intake or Sullivan intake since its really hard to find a b intake for my b heads

i want to be able to get to 800hp and possible 1000 in the future, im going to sit at 400 for a street tune but at the track id like more power later (i only want to build my bottom end once)

i know i can get a copper head gasket and get a copper ring to go around the combustion chamber with a machined recess in it so it can handle more than 20 psi (really cool tip i saw on the Sean Hyland engine rebuild dvd)

i may want a compression ration high enough to run the engine without the turbos to run na for a bit since i will have to fab up my own equal length turbo manifolds for a twin turbo set up (i may start with twin 50's or go bigger later)

also give me some pros and cons of higher compression with lower boost compared to low compression and higher boost
 

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I currently run 9.3:! on my car and make over 700RW....if I wanted, I could daily drive this and it would be fine with or without turbo...

bottom line is though....compression ratio isn't going to matter as much as who tunes your car and the supporting parts for the build
 

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I would agree. Honestly since you're wanting something that would drive fine and be on pump gas I'd stick with somewhere between 9.3-9.7ish. You'll be fine running on 93oct up until about the 750-800whp mark. If you go with any lower compression the car will be a dog unless you're in boost. My car is at 9.6:1 and works great.
 

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BTW man, I'm not in any way trying to discourage you from doing this build, but I hope you realize what it costs to make over 800whp. It's not just building a motor in and putting a turbo to it. You've got to have the fuel system to supply it, a driveline that can support it, and be able to get the power to the ground. ie suspension. My fuel system alone was over $2,000, a good transmission setup will cost a couple thousand. Are you planning on keeping it a stick car, or going auto? because a clutch that can hande that power is expensive, or if you go auto a converter that can hold that kind of power is hella expensive. Like I said, I'm not trying to discourage you, but when people start a project they don't generally think about all the underlying costs.
 

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BTW man, I'm not in any way trying to discourage you from doing this build, but I hope you realize what it costs to make over 800whp. It's not just building a motor in and putting a turbo to it. You've got to have the fuel system to supply it, a driveline that can support it, and be able to get the power to the ground. ie suspension. My fuel system alone was over $2,000, a good transmission setup will cost a couple thousand. Are you planning on keeping it a stick car, or going auto? because a clutch that can hande that power is expensive, or if you go auto a converter that can hold that kind of power is hella expensive. Like I said, I'm not trying to discourage you, but when people start a project they don't generally think about all the underlying costs.
well said.
to the OP, you just have to decide what your goals are and get a plan together on how to reach them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
BTW man, I'm not in any way trying to discourage you from doing this build, but I hope you realize what it costs to make over 800whp. It's not just building a motor in and putting a turbo to it. You've got to have the fuel system to supply it, a driveline that can support it, and be able to get the power to the ground. ie suspension. My fuel system alone was over $2,000, a good transmission setup will cost a couple thousand. Are you planning on keeping it a stick car, or going auto? because a clutch that can hande that power is expensive, or if you go auto a converter that can hold that kind of power is hella expensive. Like I said, I'm not trying to discourage you, but when people start a project they don't generally think about all the underlying costs.
i want the engine to be capable of 800-1000 for the future, i will be staying stick, but would like to get a 6 speed with a 26 spline input shaft,

is a twin clutch worth it for street driving?

and how strong are moser 31 spline axles?
 

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i want the engine to be capable of 800-1000 for the future, i will be staying stick, but would like to get a 6 speed with a 26 spline input shaft,

is a twin clutch worth it for street driving?

and how strong are moser 31 spline axles?
A twin disc is a MUST for over 700rw and Moser 31s will be fine for a stick shift street car...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A twin disc is a MUST for over 700rw and Moser 31s will be fine for a stick shift street car...
i meant how well will moser 31 spline axles hold up at the track for road/track racing, and how well will they do with drag radials or slicks at the drag strip with 400-800hp?

my street tune will be 400-450hp because the boost will be turned down
 

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I have over 100 passes with 1000rwhp on moser 31 spline axles. I am not suggesting this but they are still in one piece.

You should speak with strange and/or moser about your intended use. You likely will need "street" axles because of the road driving that you do. I am switching to 35 spline street axles on mine because of true street races and street driving. 33 spline race axles would have worked but aren't as well suited for street driving.

For your power level 33 spline street may be the right one and they make differentials now for those, auburn for sure, there may be a eaton also.

Mike
 

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I too have a 800+ HP goal. And am building with 18cc dish pistons and 52cc B heads plan on having around 8.6:1.

Robert
 

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Guys are running 10:1 without issues. Mine is 9.7 and I've been running the same 31 spline axles for over 5 years.
 

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Guys are running 10:1 without issues. Mine is 9.7 and I've been running the same 31 spline axles for over 5 years.
True. But I don't feel it's worth the risk at near a thousand horse power.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
True. But I don't feel it's worth the risk at near a thousand horse power.
im not sure if i will ever go to the 1000 hp but i want it to be capable of it, even if i dont go to 1000hp at least it has strong parts and is less likely to break,

but i would like to get to 700-800 later, i will be replacing parts that are too weak before i get near their power level braking point,

i guess the 31 splines will be good for 400-800hp,

im not going to jump into the 700-800 hp first day i get to the track with this car, im going to do it in moderation over time,
 

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My engine has been making over 700rw for years..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Very nice! I miss my turbo car, it's been 3 long years with out one. To the Auther of the thread, This guy has an insane deal on some pistons you could use. http://forums.corral.net/forums/modular-engine-parts/1320982-manley-11cc-dish-020-pistons.html

Robert
i cant buy the pistons yet, im buying parts as i see them and when i have the money to do it, im buying a mach1 lower intake this week, and i need to get another job that is steady before i can go crazy on buying parts,

i haven't figured out what pistons ill need yet and need to figure out the cc on the C heads to figure out what will give me a compression ratio of 9.5-9.7

but thanks for the info on the piston deal i will book mark the page
 

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No problem man, I almost bought them and was trying to see a sold posting on them because I want them so bad. Ive kinda been geting 2 of everything. Im wanting to buy a 99+ stang after i finish my 96. Just take your time. Its good to set your goals you want from the car, then make a master list of all supporting parts required to work with each other and your goals.



Good luck with your project. Also the 99-01 c heads have a 54cc and 03/04 have 52cc.

Robert
 
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