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Discussion Starter #1
I have been installing a turbo kit from hell on a buddies car for the past 2 weeks in my spare time. It was a new kit purchased from the manufacturer about 3 weeks ago. I have had hardly anything fit without modifying. I finally got done with the install and the car is smoking a good bit at idle and you cannot see behind the car under a normal cruise down the road. When you get on it a little, it fills the car with smoke from having the cutout open on the downpipe. The car is all original 94 with only 90k miles and had no issues prior to the install. Does this mean the turbo seal is bad and letting oil in the downpipe? It smells like hot oil the whole time it is running in and around the car. I dont see oil at the end of the exhaust, but have not pulled the downpipe back off yet as it was hot and I am sick of looking at this car due to the crappy fit of the kit. Should I see oil in the exhaust housing when I pull the downpipe if the seal is bad? I want to puke just thinking about having to work on it any more. Any help is appreciated.
 

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Prolly not the seals fault, prolly dont have the drain set up properly, might need a restrictor in the oil line to the turbo also
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I used the supplied 3 or 4an feed line and have it going in the top. I didnt use the supplied rubber drain line. I used 8an braided line. The feed is straight up and the return straight down as they suggested. This thing started smoking after like 30 seconds of running. Did i clock it wrong?
 

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I used the supplied 3 or 4an feed line and have it going in the top. I didnt use the supplied rubber drain line. I used 8an braided line. The feed is straight up and the return straight down as they suggested. This thing started smoking after like 30 seconds of running. Did i clock it wrong?
Its most likely clocked properly but the drain hose CANNOT have any bends upward, it has to be a straight through shot to the drain.. I mean if you see even a slight bend its no good.

You might still have to put a reducer in the line, the turbos dont require alot of oil and most times the -4 feed line is too much.
 

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i use a 3/4 line on a on3 76mm which is probly over kill but can anything ever be to big
the feed line must be level to oil properly and drain.depending on your oil pressure you
may need a restrictor.did you prime the turbo properly before starting?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just rechecked the angles on everything and the lines look as straight as possible and the drain line is a 10an. I dont know why I was thinking 8an. How does 10an compare in size to 3/4 drain line? 0I will pull the downpipe later to see if I find oil in it. If it has leaked, I am assuming it will now need new seals? On the priming, we pulled the coil wire and turned it over for about 30-40 seconds before starting it up. That was all I could find to prime it online doing google searches.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
also, it has stock oil pressure. It is a 100% stock longblock with the performer rpm II intake, 70mm throttle body, aeromotive regulator, 42lb injectors and pmass meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Ok, so I modified the fitting on the oil feed and used a .064 nitrous jet I had here. I triple checked the oil drain line for straightness, replaced the pcv and hose and remove the inline check valve we had in the pcv hose. I also pulled the downpipe and saw some soot buildup, but no oil. Cranked it up and same issue. I let it run for a while, drove it very easy because it was smoking and had the dipstick blow out of the tube. It blew oil everywhere. It never got into boost and did this. It is still smoking out of the exhaust a good bit at idle also. Would there be any oil in the discharge tube if the seal was bad? I dont know where to go from here.
 

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Soinds like your pcv is setup improperly but dont think that is your problem here, what turbo do u have and does it have a warranty?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
On3 70mm turbo and he paid extra for a year warranty. I saw on the box today that you have to register it within 5 days of recieving it or the warranty is void. I dont know if he did that or not. I cannot get him on the phone today. The instructions were missing and they emailed me some "basic" overview instructions with no pics and it never mentioned anything other than how to bolt the kit together. No additional steps were referenced. Probably the worst instructions I have ever seen on anything.

On another note, how is the pcv supposed to be setup? I had it off the back of the intake like stock, but with a check valve in line to help the pcv not let boost into the crankcase. I now just have it back like stock with no check valve and a new pcv.
 

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On3 70mm turbo and he paid extra for a year warranty. I saw on the box today that you have to register it within 5 days of recieving it or the warranty is void. I dont know if he did that or not. I cannot get him on the phone today. The instructions were missing and they emailed me some "basic" overview instructions with no pics and it never mentioned anything other than how to bolt the kit together. No additional steps were referenced. Probably the worst instructions I have ever seen on anything.

On another note, how is the pcv supposed to be setup? I had it off the back of the intake like stock, but with a check valve in line to help the pcv not let boost into the crankcase. I now just have it back like stock with no check valve and a new pcv.
no check valve with a pcv is exactly what you dont want.. I am personally a fan of deleting the pcv all together and putting a catch can on, however if you are deadset on the PCV you need to make sure there is a check valve and the line from the TB to the valve cover is taken off and plugged.
Blowing the dipstick tube out is an result of having no crankcase vent on a boosted engine, a catch can will fix the problem and imo should go on with everyone turbo/blower install.

As far as the turbo is concerned I dont know alot about the On3 Turbos but I know they arent the highest of quality, I would consider trying to swap it out.
If you have a restrictor inline and a correct drain line and your still blowing oil into the DP than the turbo has failed imo.
 

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I blew the dipstick out on my motor on spray. I put a fitting in each valve cover with a filter on them and problem went away. I have since put a catch can on. Does he have one of those crank case evac kits on the car. Those will blow exhaust back into the engine if there are no check valves too
 

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Stick a $5.00 breather in the oil fill tube, keep the PCV, If it still smokes you have bigger problems! KMP
 
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