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i have a 1990 mustang gt stock bottom end ported e7 e303 a 70mm turbo and soon to have a trickflow track heat intake. its an aod with a 2400 stall converter . took it to the track for the first time 90+ degree weather, one wheel peel and still no bumper. managed a 12.95 at almost 110. my 60 foot sucks, got a best of 2.0xx somethin. ive been doing some research and trying to find a way to knock a .1 or so off my 60 foot. i came across a buick GN forum where they talked about bypassing the proportioning valve during launch to increase brake pressure to the rear brakes so you can put more load on the motor while staying at the same stall speed and not spinning the tires. some of them were talking about using a line lock somehow? others just ran it all the time with more pressure in the rear by using an adjustable proportioning valve instead of the stock one. is their any truth to this? i am in the process of rebuilding the posi, putting the intake on, and getting my bumper back on. i would like to figure this out as well before i take it back to the track. any help would be appreciated. i am saving up for a new trans so for those saying just get a transbrake. or something along those lines, please do not bother posting. thanks
 

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If your already saving for a new tranny dont waste money on some brake setup unless your converting to rear disc. Transbrake is the only way to go. Save all your money for that and you'll get it sooner.
 

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Ok the cheapest way.....no money... is to use your hand E-Brake as well as the brake peddle....You can mash the brake peddle as hard as you like and your gonna overpower them. Use your hand E-Brake as well....Also you can only load your convertor to whatever the stall speed is. I would get a higher stall speed convertor. AKA if its 2500 you can only stall it to 2500.....realistically if its a 2500 you probably can only get it to stall using the brakes to about 2200 or so. To get it to stall all the way to what it's advertised at you need a transbrake.
 
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