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Discussion Starter #1
Installed the header with two bolts finger tight and this is what I get. I think I will have to grind the flange thats hitting my freshly fabbed and painted fender. I really don't want to cut into the inner fender. That is not an option!

Anyone else gone through this before and what did you do? Taller motor mounts no go too.

Thanks,
Ben SEMPER FI

 

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how much room do you need? can you shave the bottom of the turbo flange? if not, the easiest thing would be to cut and reweld the turbo mount
 

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Ben, I bought some Energy Suspension mounts because my driver side header was hitting my sway bar mount slightly, this fixed my problem. You may can cut your flange off and raise it slightly?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I have energy suspension too. The header is snug to the head so I guess all I would need is about an 1/8. But what about the engine rocking side to side? I'm going to grind the turbo flange first, then maybe a couple spacers, but if I do that, it might effect other things like the cold side etc. mmmm. This is about to get real fun I can tell already. Worse comes to worse, lay some blue tape down and notch a hole in my "Notch". Then just freakin' leave it. Won't be able to see the hole unless you are tyring to look up my skirt. Thanks for the ideas guys.
 

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Are you sure your engine is level side to side? I have seen engines sit crooked on the mounts that would cause this problem??
 

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Put some washers to move up your mounts?
Hey DOA, try the washers first instead of grinding the flange. There is alot of heat going thru there and you want to have as much meat as possible. Also, you can try some different motor mounts. How close is your oil pan to the top of the steering rack?
From my experience, different motor mount with different kmember makes big differences. I bought a set of UPR solid mounts, it put my motor to the factory height, and my headers were too high causing my wastegate flange to hit the bottom of my frame rail, i put the energy urethane mounts in, my motor sat 3/4" lower and now the header fits perfect. put a level across the valve covers and make sure your motor is leveled at all times.

This what happens when buying custom made stuff, the guy is working off of a car he has and not yours. Tolerance between car varies. It suck but that is what happens. Just remember, you kinda have to work backwards. Make the kit fit the car instead of just bolting it in. One other thing you might have another headache is the down pipe. That is another pain in the ass thing to have it fit the car. good luck
 

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Installed the header with two bolts finger tight and this is what I get. I think I will have to grind the flange thats hitting my freshly fabbed and painted fender. I really don't want to cut into the inner fender. That is not an option!

Anyone else gone through this before and what did you do? Taller motor mounts no go too.

Thanks,
Ben SEMPER FI

Hey DOA, after looking at your picture again, did you tell the guy you box the apron in? If not, then the header would of fit fine without the boxed apron. I remember reading a build on the turbo forum that had the same problem. He ended up cutting the apron.
You can still raise the motor, just so it clears the flange and see how your downpipe fits with the turbo mounted. If the down pipe clears, they it should still be ok. The cold side pipe and the intercooler usually have some play room with the silicon couplers.
 

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Yep, +1 its not the turbo kit.

You modified the inside of your engine bay.
There is supposed to be a recessed area under that flange
that you raised up to give a nice smooth edge right there.
 

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its pretty much common knowledge that most of the single turbo kits out there now that put the turbo over there sit down into that framerail. By boxing it in you took away the clearance the kit was designed to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yup, this is completely my fault. When I ordered the kit I was told it was mocked up with energy suspension motor mounts and I did not know at the time I had to tell bernard that I planned on boxing in the frame rail. Didn't know it would make a difference but it sure does. The motor is level and I will try the washer trick but if I have to cut the frame rail a little to make the turbo flange fit, no biggy. You won't be able to see too much of the cut I guess. I just want to get this thing on the streets. Thanks to all for the advice.
 

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DOA god damnit. I wished you had told me you was going to box your framerails. I would have pulled the turbo mount up. Our kits fit standard rails, but I would have made yours a little different to accept you boxing your framerails. I am sorry I didn't know
 

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DOA god damnit. I wished you had told me you was going to box your framerails. I would have pulled the turbo mount up. Our kits fit standard rails, but I would have made yours a little different to accept you boxing your framerails. I am sorry I didn't know
Acutally God had nothing to do with it.......Glad I didn't buy your kit.:crying:
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Hey Bernard,

To be honest when I ordered my kit I don't remember if I even planned on boxing in the frame rails at all. Went through all the threads and saved a lot of pictures of the great looking Mustangs that had a nice clean smooth engine bay and decided I wanted to try that. This is my first "real" car build and have very little metal fab skills and before this car, had never picked up a spray gun or used a welder. I have done everything to this car myself, self tought I guess and I know I will make mistakes. Being my first turbo kit I didn't realize this would have been an issue. I will call it a learning curve. Everything will work out great. When the car is about 95% done I will post a thread on my build with many many pictures and try to help out the next generation turbo mustang builder.

Thanks everyone for the pictures and advice.




 
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