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Discussion Starter #1
been going to the track and can't seem to footbreak more than 2300 rpms before it starts pushing through the tires. is there any secrets to adjusting the breaks to get them to hold more? would like to see somewhere about 2600 rpms so I can set my launch control around 2400 to help make boost.
 

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Push the brake pedal harder? Short of that, if you're pushing through the brakes, you may need to start looking into a looser stall, or a transbrake, and transbrakes are hell on the driveline.

Personally, I would look into a looser stall converter.
 

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I was kinda wondering something bout footbrakeing for the turbo car. what are most people able to get to and able to lunch the car? also to the guys with transbrake and the turbo what rpm do you lunch at?
 

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Not many turbo foot breakers around here, but the ones that are, use aero space dual caliper rear breaks. Not an option for the street, but if its a track only car, they will help.
 

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On my last converter it was very loose, I was able to see 3000rpm roughly before pushing thru and that was holding the brakes for everything I could. I would see no boost (I assume not enuff load for my combo) but as soon as I would launch it would build the boost fast. I went 1.44-1.46's like this.
On the TB I would see 7-8psi quickly or more depending how long I satyed on the brake, that was on no 2 step all converter around 4000rpm. this converter was to loose and I was blowing thru it, but worked well for footbrake launches.

My new converter is much tighter, I can only footbrake to around the same rpm as you (limited testing this far) but I will be leaving on the brake now. This converter will never 60' in the 1.4's on the footbrake, but should leave well on the transbrake (if suspension works) and will not blow thru in the higher rpms.

Hope that wasn't to long winded, just my exp with footbraking.
 

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Not many turbo foot breakers around here, but the ones that are, use aero space dual caliper rear breaks. Not an option for the street, but if its a track only car, they will help.
Why do you say not an option for the street? I would say not for a DD but i dont see anything wrong with street use.
 

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Why do you say not an option for the street? I would say not for a DD but i dont see anything wrong with street use.
Ask anyone who runs aero space race brakes on the street. They warp and it happens alot faster than you think it will. I went through this and ended up switching to streets. There is a reason they offer two styles.
 

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Ask anyone who runs aero space race brakes on the street. They warp and it happens alot faster than you think it will. I went through this and ended up switching to streets. There is a reason they offer two styles.

Same here, mine warped quick.

The dual rear calipers work but are usually on turbo cars that have large turbos and need time to build boost and issues pushing thru staging.

I think he has a tight converter.
 

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Why do you say not an option for the street? I would say not for a DD but i dont see anything wrong with street use.
To much heat. You have twice the friction surface.
 

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I am actually just going thru this now, aerospace told me if you drive more than 10miles in stop n go traffic the drag rotors can possibly warp that fast.
Mine warped, pads glazed, and my brake pistons actually saw damage from the heat. I was not happy to say the least. After pricing/shopping other brakes, I finally got in contact with the right person at Aerospace and it has been great since. They are taking care of me. My calipers are there now getting rebuilt (no charge) and getting a great deal on an upgrade to the street kit. The weight of my car isnt ideal for the drag brakes and I plan to do alot more street driving in the future, so this is working out good in the long run. The street rotors are larger and have vanes unlike the solid steel drag rotors.

Do not drive the drag brakes on the street or you may have issues.
 

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I'm surprised they even recommended dual calipers on a vented rotor. I called Mark Williams, Wilwood and Strange when I was thinking about dual calipers. They ALL did not recommend them on a street car. My current Wilwood rear rotors are 12 1/2" dual vane vented and will still get pretty hot after a few hot stops with 1 caliper.
 

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I am actually just going thru this now, aerospace told me if you drive more than 10miles in stop n go traffic the drag rotors can possibly warp that fast.
Mine warped, pads glazed, and my brake pistons actually saw damage from the heat. I was not happy to say the least. After pricing/shopping other brakes, I finally got in contact with the right person at Aerospace and it has been great since. They are taking care of me. My calipers are there now getting rebuilt (no charge) and getting a great deal on an upgrade to the street kit. The weight of my car isnt ideal for the drag brakes and I plan to do alot more street driving in the future, so this is working out good in the long run. The street rotors are larger and have vanes unlike the solid steel drag rotors.

Do not drive the drag brakes on the street or you may have issues.
I did the same thing your doing. Had my race kit upgraded to street. Rears only. Been very happy ever since. I'm looking to purchase fronts this winter. Glad to see they are taking care of you. I will be happy to give them my business again.
 

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Stangjumper I am not running the dual rear calipers, no need for them on mine.

88mm, I am going from drag rotors on all 4 corners to the street rotors. I was very unhappy the first couiple phone calls, then I got in touch with the right person and all is well. I hope these make the difference on my car!
 

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Sorry I miss understood. I run Wilwood dual vane street rotors front/rear on my 3400-3500lb car and they work well. I didn't want to run the drag rotors. It wasn't worth the weight difference to me.
 

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Sorry I miss understood. I run Wilwood dual vane street rotors front/rear on my 3400-3500lb car and they work well. I didn't want to run the drag rotors. It wasn't worth the weight difference to me.
I'm with you, and when I found out the weight diff from the drag/street rotors was a total of 16lbs front/rear combined I scratched my head as to why I ever ran the drag stuff.

I'll add a pound of boost to make up for the weight haha!
 

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I was going to do this to mine, but the new car is a stick so I don't need it. Wilwood back brakes are all mounted to the center with a bracket. The center has holes so they don't have to make a different center for ea option. Looked to me like you could just get another set of calipers and mounts and just bolt them on. then you have a thick rotor, and e-brake for the street. From there I was thinking of a line lock or something of the sorts. I'm sure you could find it at mccmaster carr or something. A line lock normally closed. When you stage, power the solenoid to open working all four calipers. When you jump off the foot brake, let go of the momentary switch and it will close the 2nd set of calipers. Now you have a normal set of back brakes for shut down.
 

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This is all interesting but sounds like a lot of work when a transbrake solves this issue.

You don't have to launch like an animal just because you have a transbrake, you can adjust launch rpm, timing and boost if your controller is setup right. It will be as hard on the drivetrain as you would like.

When I talked to Baer about the dual caliper setup, too much work for something the car really didn't need. (aftermarket m/c, fouls up street driving etc).

The cars I have seen that "need" the dual caliper setup is when they begin staging on the two step on the first beam, then bump into second beam and set the transbrake and 3-step. if you have that sort of staging practice you likely don't drive the thing on the street. You need 3-step rev limiter to control that setup also which means more money in ignition setup.

I think we are mixing street practices with all out race setups.

This poor guy just needs a transbrake.

10secgoal: I bet if you made a kit for that you would get some takers, and likely a bunch that really don't need it. May be a good way to fund your projects.
 

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Yeah, many may not need it. I was thinking about it for mine so I could push hard at the track, but still stop normal and drive normal on the street. But it was a 1000hp car I was building. I wasn't sure what the pre beam psi was going to be with two 72-75mm turbines lol.
I thought about putting it together....but man, i only have so much bloody time lol. Hopefully once I slow with R&D on this next kit, I can start tinkering some more.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
well now I know everything about breaks. just thought there was a way of adjusting the back drums alittle tighter to get some more rpm's. got ahold of lenny at ultimate converters to see if he can loosen this one up. this is just a street car that see's the track about twice a month if that. may concider putting a 5spd in it? maybe
 
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