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Discussion Starter #1
For the turbo guys, I've got the hp performance twin kit on my 04. They are mounted as high as possible and scavenger pump installed as well, In an attempt to solve my 50 oil leaks due to the drain back system, I put on 5/8 clear reinforced tubing to watch everything going on. Is this size sufficient? Originally they used heater hose tubing, but the oil would heat it up, cause the line to sag, back fill into the turbo and blow out the seals. I thought about using some of the aluminum tubing with an fittings or just using braided line. I still haven't cured this leak problem, and it liked to puke out on the dyno. I have made catch cans, smaller inlet lines, and restrictors and I can still see oil backing up.
 

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You need a scavenger pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
to further clarify, each turbo is fed with a -3 line with .037 restrictor. Originally the kit drained into 3/4" hoses that tee down by the lower radiator support into a smaller 1/2" pipe that fed the scavenger pump. From there it pumps back into the front of the oil pan. I kept blowing oil past the seals on the turbos and had to get them rebuilt because of the oil that pooled in the intercooler, out the exhaust, and on the inlet snout. I then decided to replace the heater hose with clear pipe to see what was causing the excessive oil. Sure enough oil was not being scavenged fast enough and backing up into the turbos. Not wanting to restrict inlet further, I welded up a drip pan, or reservoir similar to ones found on the low slung turbos on older Porsches to allow more oil capacity. This seems to work a little, but is causing problems of its own with sealing, and there is no way one will fit on the passengers side due to the lack of room. At this point I'm tempted to replace the barb flanges and fittings and worm clamps on the return side to an fittings and hoses that will remain rigid so the gravity is allowing it to feed directly, and will seal better.
 

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What scavenger pump are you using?

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's a westech pump, single 1/2 inlet and single outlet. Most of the turbo drains I've found are -10 which is 5/8 outside diameter versus the 3/4" id I'm currently running. Currently I am leaking around the drain flanges which is probably a bad gasket, intercooler outlet (at the bottom) and around most of the fittings and worm clamps. By replacing this harder clear plastic with the heater hose should seal most of that up, but again, I need rigidity to keep a consistent gravity feed to the pump. Some measurements I took shows a 8" drop from turbo outlet flange to the tee, another 1" drop to the pump, and then back up 2" to the front of the pan.
 

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Did you have the turbo seals fixed? Once they start leaking they really won't stop and you should have them repaired again.


ks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
They are Garretts, they have been rebuilt twice now, both times less than 1000 miles. They are journal bearing and have the 360 thrust bearing. I'm almost positive I've covered all the bases. I pulled the lower intercooler coupling this morning and had almost 3 tablespoons of oil drain out, all after a 4 hour thrashing on the dyno and a 10 mile drive.
 

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Run the drain lines directly to the scavenger pump. I have -10 fittings and steel braided lines. I have had it this way for about 10 years and haven't had any seal issues. I also have -4 feed lines and ran one .064 restrictor.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It has a single inlet and outlet, I completely understand the concept not having one back up the other, but would you run it to a Y or would I have to get a dual inlet pump? Thanks for the input on braided lines and -10.
 

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I run both drain lines to a T that is attached to the pump.
 

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I'm having issues with my TT setup also and I'm going to try several things at once. Currently my turbos drain into the pan through two different bungs.

1. I'll be running a scavenge pump with a Y and returning the oil from the pump through one bung in the pan.

2. Mod motors feed too much oil pressure to the turbos, they don't need 100psi of pressure so I'll be running a bypass valve and feed the turbos 60psi at high rpm.

http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/Images/pump_acc_rempress.jpg

This valve requires the excess oil to be returned to the pan and will be connected to one of the bungs in the pan. The issue I need to work out is this valve uses -10 lines so I need to see if I can get a large threaded adapter that goes down to a -4 feed then I'll use a -8 for the return line to the pan.

If I can get the oil pressure dialed back down with the bypass valve I may completely remove the scavenge pump if I don't care for the routing of the drain lines.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I agree with you, entirely too much much pressure, but would hate to restrict. A Y would be better than a T, but I thought increasing the volume in the line versus cavitation the pump was a fine line. Honestly not sure where to go from here. Maybe the blow by is not a result of excessive pressure and little drainage, but I had a turbo 4banger at one time and it was never coated in this much oil...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just a thought on the application of the restrictors: just like a garden hose if you put your thumb over the end is makes a high pressure spray, but if you restrict further back it slows the velocity. Would restricting it off the the spot where the lines come off the block be better than right on top the turbo?
 

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My .064 restrictor was placed at the oil sending bung. Then the T was attached to the restrictor. Then the two -4 feed lines.

The pump sucks the oil from the lines. I dont see a Y making a difference, but they do sell them. So it's only a little extra money.

I dont see the bypass valve being needed. There are 1000's of guys running setups without issue.

Two much oil pressure pushes oil into the compressor side. A drainage backup pushes oil into the exhaust.
 

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I dont see the bypass valve being needed. There are 1000's of guys running setups without issue.
There are also thousands of guys having issues. Depending on how you look at it the restrictor is a bandaid to deal with too much oil pressure. I spoke to many LS guys over the last few years and the ones I spoke with don't run any type of restictor or scavenge pump with no drain issues and they told me that they don't run any where near the oil pressure we run.

The only cars that really have this issue are cars that produce a lot of oil pressure and this is not limited to just Mustangs.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The dry sump oiling system I assume would be the best idea, only then can you dial in a seperate lower oil pressure. Im going to attempt to move the restrictor, but it would be interesting to have a manual gauge plumbed inline somehow to see what kinds of pressures the turbo journals are seeing. Does anyone see issue with running the scavenger pump after the engine is shut off to further draw away oil? And also, anyone see any excessive crankcase pressure or problems with leaking due to either the topside or bottom sides being pressurized due to the whole set up?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Y2k02, what does your restrictor look like? Got any links to where I can get it? I like the idea of a single one in that location rather than my 2 that are at the turbo inlet.
 

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Your bypass valve will be acting as the restrictor but costing a lot more.
Even Garrett states a restrictor may be needed if you system has too much pressure.
https://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/faq

You are not telling me anything that I didnt find out 10 years ago when I added the turbos and had the issues you are having now.

Some guys with high mounted turbo even had drain back issues when their return bung was placed at the front of the pan. Under hard braking the oil would slosh to the front of the pan and cause a blockage. Then their car would smoke. A scavenge pump eliminates that issue also.
 
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