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Discussion Starter #1
I searched through the forums and couldn't find a post that really answered all my needs so hopefully this doesn't break any rules and sorry if I do but I am in highschool and I'm new to building cars. I am getting started to build a 331 stroker turbo build that's mainly a street car but I will take it to the drag strip every once and a while. The build that I'm making will go into my 1983 Notchback. I'm on a budget but I'm looking to make around 400-600hp with the turbo. I don't know if I should buy a stock 302 block and bore it out or if I should save up a lot of money and buy a stronger 331 already made. I'm going to an automotive school in a few months so I am able to do all machine work, rear end, trans, and any work you can imagine for "free". Also I'm not sure what type of head or size chamber of heads to buy. Also if I should upgrade the type of rollers and push rods. I was thinking about running an F303 cam or maybe even an X303 because I have heard they are really good for boosted applications. I've heard some people running stock everything (except a tire) with a 302 and making 10 second passes with a 70mm turbo but I'd rather be safe than sorry so I want decently strong internals. The stroker kit I was going to get was the Scat 331 with the I-beam rods. I can't figure out how much power they can hold but it's gotta be better than stock and also its $1000 cheaper than next option with the H-beams. Sooo pretty much I'm asking on tips on how to make good power for decently cheap but not blow it. Anything helps thank you!
 

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YOUR power goal will require use of aftermarket block

unless you plan to make that power only once

probably $5k for complete short lock
 

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If the automotive school you are going to is SAM in Tx. Do yourself a favor and just hold off till you get to school before you purchase anything.
The amount of knowledge and help you will recieve there if your willing to listen and learn will be priceless, and those guys will help you make wise desicions to put a detailed plan together for exactly what your goals and budget are. The key is having a good plan together before you randomly start buying parts.
Plus students usually get a pretty good discount from most of the sponsors of the school. So If SAM is the school you are attending i would recommend take the next 4 months do some research and mainly begin to stash your spare cash for when you get to school and are ready to start the project.

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Discussion Starter #4
YOUR power goal will require use of aftermarket block

unless you plan to make that power only once

probably $5k for complete short lock
What type of block would you recommend? I see a lot of people with Dart blocks because they can hold so much power but I also see DSS. I never heard of DSS before but they seem like a decent place.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If the automotive school you are going to is SAM in Tx. Do yourself a favor and just hold off till you get to school before you purchase anything.
The amount of knowledge and help you will recieve there if your willing to listen and learn will be priceless, and those guys will help you make wise desicions to put a detailed plan together for exactly what your goals and budget are. The key is having a good plan together before you randomly start buying parts.
Plus students usually get a pretty good discount from most of the sponsors of the school. So If SAM is the school you are attending i would recommend take the next 4 months do some research and mainly begin to stash your spare cash for when you get to school and are ready to start the project.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I am going to a school in Exton PA but one of the teachers there builds mustangs and has a ton of knowledge so I will save my money until then. Thank you for the help!
 

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What type of block would you recommend? I see a lot of people with Dart blocks because they can hold so much power but I also see DSS. I never heard of DSS before but they seem like a decent place.
dart is good

i use a Boss302, from ford performance, i like screw in plugs
 

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Yes 9.5 is 351W. As said DSS is just a machined factory block. No amount of machining is going to make a factory block stronger. It will likely eliminate points of issues starting, or perhaps delay the issue from starting, but either way you will be holding the pin in one hand and the grenade in the other. At some point it will blow up.

The rest of your expressed goal is well within the limits of the factory 351W block and sound "budget" oriented. Keep the same goals and build a stock stroke/bore turbo 351W. All the 351W blocks are pretty much equally strong. At that power level the OE crank and rods will suffice even.
 

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Im currently building a Fox with a 331 single 76/75 for a customer. Customer went with a Man O War block. Its got 4 bolt splayed nodular cast main caps good to about 750hp. You can get it with billet main caps that will bring the motor potential up to about 2,500 hp. You can also go big bore with it. Its also got 2 extra holes per cylinder so you can run 6 bolt heads. Pretty nice piece. Although you probably would be fine with something like a Boss block for your power goal.

Rest of the setup is AFR 205 Renegades, custom solid roller camshaft, super victor 4150 intake, holley super sniper blow thru, hyper spark ignition, and On-3 turbo kit with the upgraded stainless steel option and upgraded 76/75 Precision turbo. Pump gas and water meth injection.
 

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Saving your money for a good block is probably the best choice, but you can be successful with a stock 302 block combo as long as you keep your power/rpm reasonable. 20 years ago, I ran a stock block, stock crank/rods 306 into the high 9s with a 66 mm turbo (maybe 550+ fwhp?). It ran for 3 years before the block cracked. Another option is to go with a 351W block to build your turbo combo, like TJM73 mentioned. Do some searches on here and other turbo Mustang-oriented sites and you'll find quite a few people that have built rather cost-effect 351W turbo combos that really run well...just another option. Good luck with your project!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes 9.5 is 351W. As said DSS is just a machined factory block. No amount of machining is going to make a factory block stronger. It will likely eliminate points of issues starting, or perhaps delay the issue from starting, but either way you will be holding the pin in one hand and the grenade in the other. At some point it will blow up.

The rest of your expressed goal is well within the limits of the factory 351W block and sound "budget" oriented. Keep the same goals and build a stock stroke/bore turbo 351W. All the 351W blocks are pretty much equally strong. At that power level the OE crank and rods will suffice even.
Ok thanks I'll keep that in mind! I can't find any good blocks or not rusted 351's around me so I might just stick to a 331 or 302. Unless you know of a good website that sells them for a good price. Once again thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Im currently building a Fox with a 331 single 76/75 for a customer. Customer went with a Man O War block. Its got 4 bolt splayed nodular cast main caps good to about 750hp. You can get it with billet main caps that will bring the motor potential up to about 2,500 hp. You can also go big bore with it. Its also got 2 extra holes per cylinder so you can run 6 bolt heads. Pretty nice piece. Although you probably would be fine with something like a Boss block for your power goal.

Rest of the setup is AFR 205 Renegades, custom solid roller camshaft, super victor 4150 intake, holley super sniper blow thru, hyper spark ignition, and On-3 turbo kit with the upgraded stainless steel option and upgraded 76/75 Precision turbo. Pump gas and water meth injection.
I'll definitely look into the Man O War block and boss block thanks! Also thanks for the rest of the set up too because I am still researching what I should do for cams, heads, etc. What compression ratio will it be running?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Saving your money for a good block is probably the best choice, but you can be successful with a stock 302 block combo as long as you keep your power/rpm reasonable. 20 years ago, I ran a stock block, stock crank/rods 306 into the high 9s with a 66 mm turbo (maybe 550+ fwhp?). It ran for 3 years before the block cracked. Another option is to go with a 351W block to build your turbo combo, like TJM73 mentioned. Do some searches on here and other turbo Mustang-oriented sites and you'll find quite a few people that have built rather cost-effect 351W turbo combos that really run well...just another option. Good luck with your project!
Thank you I will! I appreciate it
 

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People say that 351W's are hard to find, but I could have one in my garage by the end of the weekend. Maybe by the end of the day if I absolutely had to. They're out there.
 

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You can make 500 on the stock block no problem as long as the tune is right and you do not spin the motor to high.
Don't go aftermarket block unless you plan to match it with a forged rotating assembly. This ends up not budget friendly lol.

Stock 351 blocks break just the same as the 8.2 deck 302s, so keep that in mind.
Personally I would save your money and atleast build a stout short block. Get a good Dart block or similar, and good 4340 rotating assembly.
This way, you can grow and not worry about being power limited when you get greedy and want to push 20+ boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You can make 500 on the stock block no problem as long as the tune is right and you do not spin the motor to high.
Don't go aftermarket block unless you plan to match it with a forged rotating assembly. This ends up not budget friendly lol.

Stock 351 blocks break just the same as the 8.2 deck 302s, so keep that in mind.
Personally I would save your money and atleast build a stout short block. Get a good Dart block or similar, and good 4340 rotating assembly.
This way, you can grow and not worry about being power limited when you get greedy and want to push 20+ boost.
Thank you! I'll keep that in mind. I was probably gonna go with a dart or boss block. And yeah I like to be safe and greedy at the same time so that's what I'm gonna do
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Also another question I have is what are the best gears to put in the car? I was thinking 3.73s but someone told me they didn't see boost up 3rd gear. But most of the cars I see that drag race have 3.73. Should I go 3.55 instead or keep stock gearing?
 

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leave the gears until you do the engine, and you get it dialed in

once you find out the power band, you can decide then
 
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