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lookin to install a tubular k member, which one? I have heard some bad stories about cheap ones. Any input will help. If u use a tub k member, will u have to change the a arms?
 

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Try using the search feature. We've had one or two topics per day on this subject for a while. I got the full D&D drag set up from http://www.jdsperformance.com and I love it. You don't have to get the A-arms with most of them, but once you see that K under your car, you'll want to. Anyway, try a search on K member and see what comes up.
 

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Kenny Brown has a strong looking piece, with decent geometry ($600?). You can use the stock control arms, but you gotta go to coil-overs.

Maximum Motorsports will have theirs out in the new year... they'll allow the stock control arms & springs.

Hal/QA1 allows the stock arms, and there's a removable spring perch option as well. It's kinda lightweight, and not as beefie though (similar to most of the other products).
 

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AJE (Anthony Jones Engineering) makes the Y2k and I've heard really good things about them as far as fit and header clearance but most k-members will work fine ifyou build a run-of -the- mill combo. Some minor "tweaking " is always necessary if you plan on running 1 7/8" or larger headers I would just stick with the cheaper D&D from Jd's that evlgt told you about. I have that setup on my car and have no complaints and I run 2" headers. They required a little bit of fine tuning to make them fit.
 

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I run the AJE setup. Most of the Racers I had talked to said that they had alot of problems with some of the other kits with header clearance when they worked on cars between rounds. I was told they had the most header clearance. I installed the kit and was thoroughly impressed how well everything fit. No grinding, modification and everything bolted on perfectly.
 

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It depends on what you want.

You really have about 3 kinds of K members.

You have ones that are just lighter than stock, no relocation of suspension geometry points. This is the majority of them like D&D, GP, HAL

Then you have the drag strip ones that stress super light weight and improved header clearance: AJE

Then you have ones for all out cornering that move the A arms forward 1" to increase the wheelbase and at a different angle for brake dive, etc : Griggs.

Then you have the MM one that is not released. Also Wolverine has something similar that will work with stock, coilovers, and SLA. But there will not be a lot of weight savings there. Again, more suspension oriented by removing the strut and going coilover shock.
 

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I'll say again, what ever you get don't get a Gound Pounder. I crushed the passenger side of mine and never could get my alignment correct. Many other problems with fit. Finally bought a Hal to replace it. Had some fit problems but nothing that couldn't be fixed.
 
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