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Discussion Starter #1
Aquired my rims (15x10 draglites), and have decided on 28x10.5 ET drags. I'm going with rim screws as well. Just need to decide on running tubes or not. Did a search, looking for more input. experience/opinions wanted. Thanks.
 

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Aquired my rims (15x10 draglites), and have decided on 28x10.5 ET drags. I'm going with rim screws as well. Just need to decide on running tubes or not. Did a search, looking for more input. experience/opinions wanted. Thanks.
You better run tubes if your screwing the tire to the rim.

I've never run tubes, but I've never screwed them to the rim either. I just take some dish soap and a rag and wipe the inside of the tire down real good. It works really well for what I do...usually don't have any pressure lose issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for the reply.

Anyone else? Heading up to buy my tires tomorrow?
 

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I'm not saying its right, and I'll probally tube the new car, but on my 02 I ran QTP's srcewed with no tubes and never had a problem, only lost air while sitting during the winter.
 

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I dont run tubes in my ET streets, but I'm goin to put them back in because of the shocking of the sidewalls when you let the clutch out. I have screws in my rims, without tubes.
 

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I've ran both ways and it's way better with tubes.Without tubes your always chasing tire pressure and it always seems like one leaks more that the other.With tubes if you don't run the car for a while no problem.Without you may come out to find the car setting on a rim.And I've never really seen a documented performance advantage without tubes.
 

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I've ran both ways and it's way better with tubes.Without tubes your always chasing tire pressure and it always seems like one leaks more that the other.With tubes if you don't run the car for a while no problem.Without you may come out to find the car setting on a rim.And I've never really seen a documented performance advantage without tubes.
The only reason alot of drag racers dont run tubes is because of weight. In class racing we dont run tubes in them. My SuperStocker has never had tubes in them.. Lighter the rotating weight, the quicker the ET/60ft. But in my street car I'm goin to put then back in because of what i mentioned in my earlier post
 

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The only reason alot of drag racers dont run tubes is because of weight. In class racing we dont run tubes in them. My SuperStocker has never had tubes in them.. Lighter the rotating weight, the quicker the ET/60ft. But in my street car I'm goin to put then back in because of what i mentioned in my earlier post
we run them in heads up classes. i know a bunch of people do. but they are all true 10.5 tires so maybe thats why.....
 

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It has been proven better and more consistent without tubes. I have never run tubes in any of my slicks. Never needed screws either. I just recently cut a 1.47 short time on 26X10 ET Drags, no tubes, no screws. 12-12.5psi. Tires didn't move on the rim at all.




Here's a great article on why running a slick without tubes can be beneficial.


Slick Preparation
It has been traditional practice when mounting a drag slick to use racing inner-tubes and wheel screws. Wheels screws are drilled through the outer lip of the wheel and extend only a fraction of an inch into the tire, the purpose is to keep the slick from spinning on the rim during a hard launch.

While this is widely accepted, it's not the best way to mount a slick on cars running slower than 8's. For years, we too had used inner-tubes and wheel screws until a famous Super Stock chassis builder told us not to. So we tried a pair of slicks that were mounted tubeless and screwless. Low and behold, the car's 60 ft times decreased and the car was more stable on the big end.

There are several reasons for the improvement. Inner-tubes actually prevent the tire from distributing air pressure evenly and properly. When using an inner-tube, the bulk of the air pressure is placed on the center of the tire instead of evenly across the tread. Many racers use as little air pressure as possible in an effort to make the slick hook harder. When in fact, the average slick will hook its best without an inner-tube when air pressure is around 11 - 14 psi hot.

Too little air places most of its pressure on the outside edges of the slick, not fully utilizing the center. And too much air does the reverse. It's much the same with radial tires, if they're under-inflated the edges wear prematurely and over-inflation wears out the center of the tread. So once you've gotten rid of your inner-tubes, start increasing air pressure a pound at a time until the car looses traction and then back up a pound. Another way to check for proper tire inflation is to drive through a small amount of water and then onto dry pavement. Look at the water marks the slicks left. You'll easily be able to see if the contact patch is even or if it is favoring the edges or center.

A slick with too little air pressure causes the car to sway and feel unstable at the end of the track. Running additional air pressure stabilizes the car on the big end of the drag strip and makes the ride feel much safer and stable.

And don't worry about the slick spinning on the rim. If they're properly mounted, it's not a problem. We've paid close attention to slick travel, and on a high 9 second, 3450 lb Mustang, they only move about one inch every 20 passes, hardly anything to be concerned about.
 

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3235lbs, mid 1.2 sixty foot, no screws, and tubes. permatex hi tack.... 20 passes. tires haven't moved 1/4 inch. and the tubes help keep the side wall from being crushed so hard... just my .02. we will wear the side wall out before the slick ever es worn out, thats why we run them... just my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just what I figured. Not an overwhelming sway either direction, some for, some against. I can see good points on both sides. Still on the fence.

I did buy my new tires today, and I also bought tubes and rim screws. It may be true, but the tube not evenly distributing air pressure I find puzzling. If the proper drag tube is used, it should conform to the rim/tire contour, these tires are "designed" for tubes. Although I've done it on other rims/tires in the past, and it does work, the "hi tack" makes the tires a real b!T&h to get off the rim later on when it's time to replace them. The screws are not a problem for me, a little silicone on them for security and they really shouldn't contribute to leakage anyway, they don't pass all the way through the bead. Plus, from my search for used wheels, the rim screw holes have very little effect on the retained value (price) of a set. Extra rotating weight vs the leakage and stability issues is my main concern. Thanks for the replys and keep plugging, haven't decided yet.
 

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reason i went away from screws.... one its a shocker for people to see a car without them!!!! and two, help some guys with a 10.5 car and they want to back out some everypass.... have also seen rim screws cut/rip the tire in a complete circle....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
have also seen rim screws cut/rip the tire in a complete circle....

Now your just trying to scare me!!! LOL!!! On the last set (small DOT cheaters) I ended up using hi tack. Didn't really expect the rim to spin inside them, and had run them for a while before I thought to check for slippage. Turns out they were moving as much as 6" per launch, I thought "holy crap". Once I glued them, the rim didn't slip anymore, I started having trouble getting the tires to hook, got worse when I took weight out of the car. I guess the rim slippage was kind of acting like an initial "cushion" on launch.

as far as the other issue, note to self....check rim screws between every pass.

Bowtieless, your car is alot quicker than mine. How much nitrous you pushing? With the HP required to run your times, you've got to be pushing the limits of that so called "stock shortblock". nice car.
 

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that was the old engine and old car! this is a joint effort! my engine and trans and martin connelley's car. it's no where near stock.
here's something to laugh about. this new car is a hundred pounds heavier and we spray it with the same eighty two jet!

well sprayed the old car with an eighty eight I think.
 

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