You mean this stuff will keep the tire from slipping on the rim?Permatex Hi Tack or screws.
That's interesting.. why not something like hytac? Weight? Price?My ’70 AMX has gone 10.00 on 9” x 29.5” M/T (bias) slicks, 5.13’s and Advanced Clutches / Jerico 4-speed. typically 6800 RPM launch. Cal-Tack suspension. 9” wide rims, no screws, no tubes. HAIRSPRAY.
Yep, you read that right! Hairspray is a light glue once the alcohol dissipates.
Tubes ad weight and slow you down.
To not get this thread too off track, I'd like to take the conversation to another thread... However, I couldn't agree with you more!!! Except on the 4.85... lol It should have been WAY quicker.. really for the same reasons the 5.29 should have.88GTGUY - I had made custom needle bearings for my front upper & lower control arms along with the front lower spring mount. Buy the best shocks all around. Use weight bars to your advantage. I suppose Hytac would work also but what a mess! I race a 4-speed but if you run an automatic buy the best converter. Consider after-market transmission gears with less RPM drop between gears. If you run a stick buy from Advanced Clutches. Same with the manual transmissions, pay attention to the gear splits, what it came with may not be the best for you.
Test-Test-Test and always keep your eyes and ears open for something new.
And my best advice? And this starts a S**t storm with some people because they say “impossible” ....
Chase this formula until you get it:
1320 / MPH = optimum ET. or for you short track racers 660/MPH = Optimum ET.
This applies to RACE CARS that are built to run as fast as they can as street / strip cars are full of compromises.
If the formula shows your ET is slow, don’t spend a dime on more HP. Find the issue. your MPH and weight determine what the ET should be.
You can BEAT the formula if your really good. But at least try to get the ET to what the MPH says your ET should be. This is all time over distance. Just math.
In your two times on your signature:
660/131 = 5.04 ET. You show 5.29 @ 131. You have a quarter second lingering in your car. It’s in the chassis (or track), not the engine. How much would you spend on your engine for .25 ET reduction? You don’t need too!
660 / 147 = 4.49. You show 4.85 @ 147. Good job there, you beat the formula! Whatever you are doing there is right on. Figure out how to make it happen on the 131 MPH runs.
And I have NO experience in 275 racing or NOS. Barely any Turbo stuff other than OEM stuff. So I can’t help you there. But if the HP you have is linear, meaning no single-double-triple shot of NOS as you progress down the track, I’m confident in the formula. Make it your friend, not your enemy!
I want to say most of the cars in Radial Vs. The World (fastest radial class) use beadlocks? I know it can be more difficult to mount them but never heard that it shouldn't be done.Yes, i've used it in the past on a partnered car with good results. Lots of guys still using it on radial cars when they can't afford beadlocks and we all know not to screw radials.
It's actually easier to mount tires with the beadlocks, especially while at the track. Mickey Thompson specifically says to not not use screws in the radials. People still do, some without issues, some with, I haven't personally had a problem but I have beadlocks and I don't regularly run radials.I want to say most of the cars in Radial Vs. The World (fastest radial class) use beadlocks? I know it can be more difficult to mount them but never heard that it shouldn't be done.