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Discussion Starter #1
Before I spend the $ for bead lock rims is there anything I can do to keep from tearing up tubes? The car hasn't been to the track yet.
 

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In the old days. Lol we used baby powder inside the tires. Kept the tire from sticking to the tube. But beadlocks or screwing the tire to the rim is the best.
 

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Yes, i've used it in the past on a partnered car with good results. Lots of guys still using it on radial cars when they can't afford beadlocks and we all know not to screw radials.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Might have to try the permatex stuff. I'm hoping it's a good indication that my suspension tuning is working. The car is hooking really nicely, starting to make some decent power but keeping the boost down. If the permatex stuff works hopefully I can turn things up a notch.
 

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Yes, i've used it in the past on a partnered car with good results. Lots of guys still using it on radial cars when they can't afford beadlocks and we all know not to screw radials.
Ah... not all of us.. I've never had an issue. lol
 

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My ’70 AMX has gone 10.00 on 9” x 29.5” M/T (bias) slicks, 5.13’s and Advanced Clutches / Jerico 4-speed. typically 6800 RPM launch. Cal-Tack suspension. 9” wide rims, no screws, no tubes. HAIRSPRAY.
Yep, you read that right! Hairspray is a light glue once the alcohol dissipates.
Tubes ad weight and slow you down.
 

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My ’70 AMX has gone 10.00 on 9” x 29.5” M/T (bias) slicks, 5.13’s and Advanced Clutches / Jerico 4-speed. typically 6800 RPM launch. Cal-Tack suspension. 9” wide rims, no screws, no tubes. HAIRSPRAY.
Yep, you read that right! Hairspray is a light glue once the alcohol dissipates.
Tubes ad weight and slow you down.
That's interesting.. why not something like hytac? Weight? Price?

Got any other tricks you'd share? I know the hardcore super stock guys can get creative!
 

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88GTGUY - I had made custom needle bearings for my front upper & lower control arms along with the front lower spring mount. Buy the best shocks all around. Use weight bars to your advantage. I suppose Hytac would work also but what a mess! I race a 4-speed but if you run an automatic buy the best converter. Consider after-market transmission gears with less RPM drop between gears. If you run a stick buy from Advanced Clutches. Same with the manual transmissions, pay attention to the gear splits, what it came with may not be the best for you.
Test-Test-Test and always keep your eyes and ears open for something new.
And my best advice? And this starts a S**t storm with some people because they say “impossible” ....
Chase this formula until you get it:
1320 / MPH = optimum ET. or for you short track racers 660/MPH = Optimum ET.
This applies to RACE CARS that are built to run as fast as they can as street / strip cars are full of compromises.
If the formula shows your ET is slow, don’t spend a dime on more HP. Find the issue. your MPH and weight determine what the ET should be.
You can BEAT the formula if your really good. But at least try to get the ET to what the MPH says your ET should be. This is all time over distance. Just math.
In your two times on your signature:
660/131 = 5.04 ET. You show 5.29 @ 131. You have a quarter second lingering in your car. It’s in the chassis (or track), not the engine. How much would you spend on your engine for .25 ET reduction? You don’t need too!
660 / 147 = 4.49. You show 4.85 @ 147. Good job there, you beat the formula! Whatever you are doing there is right on. Figure out how to make it happen on the 131 MPH runs.
And I have NO experience in 275 racing or NOS. Barely any Turbo stuff other than OEM stuff. So I can’t help you there. But if the HP you have is linear, meaning no single-double-triple shot of NOS as you progress down the track, I’m confident in the formula. Make it your friend, not your enemy!
 

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88GTGUY - I had made custom needle bearings for my front upper & lower control arms along with the front lower spring mount. Buy the best shocks all around. Use weight bars to your advantage. I suppose Hytac would work also but what a mess! I race a 4-speed but if you run an automatic buy the best converter. Consider after-market transmission gears with less RPM drop between gears. If you run a stick buy from Advanced Clutches. Same with the manual transmissions, pay attention to the gear splits, what it came with may not be the best for you.
Test-Test-Test and always keep your eyes and ears open for something new.
And my best advice? And this starts a S**t storm with some people because they say “impossible” ....
Chase this formula until you get it:
1320 / MPH = optimum ET. or for you short track racers 660/MPH = Optimum ET.
This applies to RACE CARS that are built to run as fast as they can as street / strip cars are full of compromises.
If the formula shows your ET is slow, don’t spend a dime on more HP. Find the issue. your MPH and weight determine what the ET should be.
You can BEAT the formula if your really good. But at least try to get the ET to what the MPH says your ET should be. This is all time over distance. Just math.
In your two times on your signature:
660/131 = 5.04 ET. You show 5.29 @ 131. You have a quarter second lingering in your car. It’s in the chassis (or track), not the engine. How much would you spend on your engine for .25 ET reduction? You don’t need too!
660 / 147 = 4.49. You show 4.85 @ 147. Good job there, you beat the formula! Whatever you are doing there is right on. Figure out how to make it happen on the 131 MPH runs.
And I have NO experience in 275 racing or NOS. Barely any Turbo stuff other than OEM stuff. So I can’t help you there. But if the HP you have is linear, meaning no single-double-triple shot of NOS as you progress down the track, I’m confident in the formula. Make it your friend, not your enemy!
To not get this thread too off track, I'd like to take the conversation to another thread... However, I couldn't agree with you more!!! Except on the 4.85... lol It should have been WAY quicker.. really for the same reasons the 5.29 should have.
 

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Yes, i've used it in the past on a partnered car with good results. Lots of guys still using it on radial cars when they can't afford beadlocks and we all know not to screw radials.
I want to say most of the cars in Radial Vs. The World (fastest radial class) use beadlocks? I know it can be more difficult to mount them but never heard that it shouldn't be done.
 

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You will ad considerable amount of un-sprung weight (and cost) to the car and it will have an effect of stiffening the sidewall; which maybe good or bad. Doing your own research, determine if they are using the beadlocks for improved 0-330’ times or is it a down track issue? This is one of those things you have to pay to play and hopefully it works!
Just don’t get caught up in the “monkey see - monkey do” category.
 

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I want to say most of the cars in Radial Vs. The World (fastest radial class) use beadlocks? I know it can be more difficult to mount them but never heard that it shouldn't be done.
It's actually easier to mount tires with the beadlocks, especially while at the track. Mickey Thompson specifically says to not not use screws in the radials. People still do, some without issues, some with, I haven't personally had a problem but I have beadlocks and I don't regularly run radials.
 
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