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Discussion Starter #1
planning to try out an auto in my car to see if I can run faster and more consistent at the track. Maybe even enter a couple races. Got a couple guys local to me selling c4's. I dont really know anything about torque converters and wondering what you guys would suggest for my combo. I'd like to keep it streetable... check out my sig and let me know if you need any more info
 

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Id call Lane at PTC and let him get you set up, best and priced reasonable
 

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Discussion Starter #3
is that PTCrace.com in AL?

I may look into a custom converter in the future but for now I am hoping to pick one up from the local guys that are selling the whole kit. Is there a type (lock-up/non lock-up) and stall range that will get me close for a supercharged auto?
 

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Converter stall depends on may factors.First is what size and type of tire?How heavy
is the Car?Weight?also what RPM where you launching with the stick?
 

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I'd call PTC or ATI....do it once do it right.
 

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I can tell you, you don't want an 8" with that combo. I'd look at a 9" to 9.5" diameter converter and probably in the 3500-4500 rpm range, which really depends on all the variables. Hydraulic roller cam and shifts under 6500 rpms, then thats a good range, solid roller and 8k rpm plus, you better get a professional built converter LOL.

A C4 doesn't use lockup converters that I know of. I thought that was only AOD/AODE transmissions.

Chris at Circle D is also a custom converter builder and has built some really nice converters for some 1000+ horsepower setups down to your basic 300 horsepower setups.

www.circlespecialties.com

If you talk with him, tell him Carl referred you.
 

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Carl, while I agree with what you said, there are a lot of variables.
In a 90% strip car or a car that 1/4 mile is the most important aspect, I'd have no problem seeing an 8" converter in there.

Again, it depends on the usage. I shift mine at 6,000 and the converter flashes to 5,200. It's a bit inefficient but definitely works. The new converter is about 400 rpms tighter, but alas...it's winter here so I can't test it. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The car weighs about 3200 with me in it. I was using a 26" Hoosier slick but might be switching to an 27" ET street. I tried launching at various RPMs but it seemed best leaving about 4k RPM and feathering the clutch. I was shifting about 6200 but the car might benefit shifting a little higher.
 

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The car weighs about 3200 with me in it. I was using a 26" Hoosier slick but might be switching to an 27" ET street. I tried launching at various RPMs but it seemed best leaving about 4k RPM and feathering the clutch. I was shifting about 6200 but the car might benefit shifting a little higher.
Have you put it on a chassis dyno with that 5 speed? The powerband would really help.
 

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8" is not going to work with a blower.

Spend $1000 once rather than $400 on a used one that is not correct for the app then $1000 later for one that is. Or even worse you baloon the cheap one and hurt the thrust in the motor.

Converter will make or break the car.

Tim
 

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Carl, while I agree with what you said, there are a lot of variables.
In a 90% strip car or a car that 1/4 mile is the most important aspect, I'd have no problem seeing an 8" converter in there.

Again, it depends on the usage. I shift mine at 6,000 and the converter flashes to 5,200. It's a bit inefficient but definitely works. The new converter is about 400 rpms tighter, but alas...it's winter here so I can't test it. :(
Not trying to argue with you here, but where is your experience coming from with an 8" converter in a power adder application?

I tried an 8" converter from Transking with my old 347. When I first got it, it was way too loose, went to like 5400 on the footbrake. The car sixty footed great on motor, but really had no steam up top and you could hardly hear it shift. This was a low 6100-6200 rpm shifted hydraulic roller motor. I took it back to transking and they made it as tight as they could get it which was around 3800 I believe. Only lost like .02 or so in the sixty foot, but gained my mph back. I ran that 8" for a while, but when I tried to spray a little 100 shot through it, it blew through the converter and had no mph up top. I finally sold it and went with a 9" or 9.5" converter (can't remember for sure) that stalled to 4200. I picked up in the sixty foot and was still able to spray 75 to it with that low rpm motor.

When I was working with Circle D Specialties on the larger converter (which wasn't originally built by them), he had seen that the 8" converters are more geared towards high winding motors. This was around 6-7 years ago, maybe technology is a bit better on the 8" converters now, but that was my experience with one.
 

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Not a lot of experience here Carl...and definitely don't want to argue, that wasn't my intention.
My implication was that there are variables there in regard to usage. Meaning a car that is 20% strip and 80% street, the needs are different than an 80% strip, 20% street car.
 

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One and done. Call Lenny at Ultimate Converter Concepts.

I went the off the shelf route on the first converter.... I was ready to burn it to the ground. Called Lenny and he built me a converter. Used my 5 speed chassis dyno curve and cam data. Performed exactly like he said it would.
 

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when i was getting some ideas for my future street/strip blown hyd roller combo with a c4-everyone i talked to was big on the 9.5 converter 38-4000k stall speed
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Have you put it on a chassis dyno with that 5 speed? The powerband would really help.
It hasn't been on the dyno, only the track. EEC analyzer shows my logs to have peak HP ~5700rpm and TQ ~5500rpm. TQ is pretty flat from 4600rpm and up.

Power adder cars are a different animal than na. DirtyDog Performance (Powered by CubeCart). Like mentioned, ur engine is at great risk with the wrong one.
how would the engine be at risk with the wrong converter?
 
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