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Jersey True Street Guy
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Discussion Starter #1
I just added a second cooler to my car to survive hot true street cruises. A few points of commentary:

Having my existing cooler mounted under the car was not working well. As we got into it, we had the fan rotating backwards and moving air the wrong way. It was pushing air towards the ground. We have it now reversed to push air up through the cooler in the direction of heat rising and in line with the flow of air against the ground.

I bought a second cooler, the smaller of the two B&M with fans. It is a stacked plate with a spal fan and it comes with female npt fittings for in/out/and thermostatic switch. Far better quality then the tube an fin derale that is under the car.



It is up in the passenger fender. We did the lines in series. Both fans have thermostatic switches and manual override switches to turn them on. We used the ground to switch to prevent feedback into my bank of switches.

I will report back results next weekend after MIR NMCA true street.

I am keeping this in the turbo section because the heat issues I feel are strongly attributed to the multiple heat generating factors of a high hp turbo car.
 

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I run the same cooler/fan as that one and recently added a second cooler (no fan) in series because it seemed like the the B&M was working pretty hard when hot lapping at the track.

Do you have a temp gauge to compare the before and after? I don't have a gauge so no idea what the temp numbers are.
 

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Jersey True Street Guy
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3,195 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I run the same cooler/fan as that one and recently added a second cooler (no fan) in series because it seemed like the the B&M was working pretty hard when hot lapping at the track.

Do you have a temp gauge to compare the before and after? I don't have a gauge so no idea what the temp numbers are.
Yes, I have one and I watch it closely. Just racing there is no issue, the trans doesn't get hotter then 180. Driving the 30 miles on the true street cruise it is getting hot. It was over 250 degrees in the last race that was making me uncomfortable. It gradually creeped up over the course of the drive.

Yes, I will have clear comparisons after the next race which is a week from the date of this post.
 

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i run john deere hygard (thinner one) with a B&M 6 pass cooler and no fans my trans never gets over 180 even on the transbrake or a 2 hour drive in traffic.

what tranny fluid are you running?
 

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Jersey True Street Guy
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Discussion Starter #5
Lucas semi-synthetic
 

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The converter produces 90% of the heat,thinking this might be issue here.
Was running a JW 9"\5000 stall and heat was a issue,also the converter sounded very loose around town.Switched over to a PTC 9"\5000 stall
everything the same,problem fixed.Very efficient,sounds stock around town.
Temps never go over 180 at the track or in traffic.Running the same cooler
with fan,no secondary cooler.Oil is type F,hope this helps.
 

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Jersey True Street Guy
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3,195 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I had this discussion with both Pete at Hughes where the Trans came from and with Lenny at UCC where the converter came from.

The converter was built with a mechanical diode which they both agreed that it was optimized for what I am doing. The spragless converters are the ones that run hot.

I am willing to bet the problem is solved now. I think it was a combination of a low quality cooler, fan spinning the wrong way and placement.
 

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I no longer remember the brand but we put a big transmission cooler up under the front driver side frame rail to tackle heat issues related to "true street" events. It was parallel to the frame rail so really air could not move over it. Then we took a cooling fan off some sport bike and put that on the side(fins) to blow over it. It worked out quite well with a C6 and later Powerglide.
 

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Jersey True Street Guy
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3,195 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I no longer remember the brand but we put a big transmission cooler up under the front driver side frame rail to tackle heat issues related to "true street" events. It was parallel to the frame rail so really air could not move over it. Then we took a cooling fan off some sport bike and put that on the side(fins) to blow over it. It worked out quite well with a C6 and later Powerglide.
Hanging off of the frame rail would have been a good spot but as you can see in the picture my BOV and one of the waste gates go through that area so we moved it up.

A GT nose is a huge advantage for fitting everything in the car but I don't have the heart to do that to the car.
 

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Jersey True Street Guy
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)


Problem solved. Temp gauge after 30 mile drive in 90 degree temperature.

Not sure whether the second cooler or reversing fan direction on first solved problem.
 

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Jersey True Street Guy
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3,195 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for following up with the new temp readings. Glad you got it worked out.
Great meeting you. Keepin the car cool doesn't help if you screw up driving though....

I am still agitated....
 

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Jersey True Street Guy
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Discussion Starter #14
What happened?
Not used to the new manual brake setup on the car. It is very different to prestage and to "bump" to transbrake. I went past the deep stage point by accident on the second pass prior to the tree being set (e.g., guy in other lane was fully staged). No time registered from the pass resulting in a DNF for the race. Ran 2 9.0's on the other passes, winner (whose car was impressive) went 9.28 avg.

I hate making mistakes.

...however, trans stayed cool.
 

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do you think a 500hp stock block car with an aod can get away with one cooler/fan combo?
My combo lasted 5 years (weekend car-still going strong ) with the largest B&M cooler and just a radiator fan. 900hp and a 4200rpm stall. I had to change coolers over the winter do to a larger intercooler.
 

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Im putting a trans temp gauge in the car now, i just spent a good amount of money in a p/g and converter combo. I drive my car alot on the street. Mike where did you mount the temp sensor? On the line or the pan?
 
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