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Discussion Starter #1
My t5 is on the way out and I am compiling parts for the swap. I’m currently at 300 rwhp but have an end goal to be around 500 rwhp sometime in the future obviously after some serious changes. I was looking at and really leaning toward the Mcleod twin disk and wanted to hear from someone with this clutch. Is it worth the extra money? From what I have researched with this clutch it doesn’t matter if it’s stock or up to 800 hp it handles it all. I’d love to be able to buy the tko600 and Mcleod twin and not have to worry about upgrading later.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
With a single disk do you think there would be any drive ability issues on the street stepping up to a clutch with my end goal in mind?

The only reason I was thinking a dual dual disk is because I was told it is like a stock clutch regardless of power.
 

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search.......

rst with hydraulic TOB, I have a KB that creates serious TQ, and its TQ that will kill the clutch

i have hondu like pedal effort, less than stock, slips with no issues in traffic, and holds

I will never go back to single disc
 

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A single disc clutch that has a streetable friction material is going to have a torque limit of about 550lbs-ft. This is given the diameter limits of available clutches for your application. If your application is ever going to make more torque than that, get a dual disc clutch. The pedal effort will be much lower as an added benefit.
 

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Double check that there is enough clearance between the hub of the rear friction disc and the end of the bearing retainer sleeve. Most of the time, the sleeve needs to be shortened on a lathe. If there is interference, the car won't shift properly and the synchros will be destroyed very quickly. With proper use of dial calipers and some standoff blocks, you can check this without installing the transmission.
 

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The directions made no mention of this clearance. Furthermore, in my research I haven't read anywhere that this was an issue. That said, I got out a straight edge and dial calipers and did some measuring. I have an easy .240" of clearance.

But thanks for heads up!

I did need to loosen my Bellhousing to get the clutch fork in there tho as I bolted it on without it attached.. I didn't need to do this with a single disc.. :lol: But I got the trans in there tonight.. A little at a time!
 

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I got the new clutch cable in there and all I can say is the pedal is stupid easy to operate compared to the CDF. What a difference.. I'm sure the new cable helped, but it's really light. I haven't got the car on the road yet, but I can tell this clutch will be easy to drive.

One thing nobody has mentioned is that since the RST/RXT clutch is a bit taller, the threaded end of the clutch cable is now to short to get the jam nut on behind the ball nut.. I drowned it in thread locker for now. I'm sure it will be fine, but maybe there's a ball nut that's shorter by 1/4"?
 

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lol.. negative.. I just got the driveshaft on. I'm not taking it all off again unless I break it.

THere's easily 20 machine shops within 4 square miles around here that can knock off .250 from the ballnut..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the replies. This will be my first attempt installing a transmission and everything that goes with it.

Midnight seeing you are currently in the process Have you run into any hiccups other than the clutch cable?

Here is what I currently have/waiting on, all parts are new.
Liberty tko600 with 5.0 shifter
Ford racing bell housing
Clutch fork
50 oz Billet flywheel
McLeod clutch
Throw out bearing, pilot bearing
Spacer plate
New yoke for tko
Stifflers cross member
Prothane transmission mount
All new mounting hardware
MM adjustable clutch cable

I’ll be placing the final order Monday. As soon as it all gets here I’ll start the swap.
 

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Nice list there..

I used some old main stud bolts (which are the same thread size) spaced with lug nuts to take up some slack of the longer bolt length to pull the trans into the bellhousing. These are the bolts I also use for mounting the block on an engine stand btw!

At a certain point it will all line up and you can finally wiggle the gearcase home when the input shaft splines mesh with the friction discs. But getting it started is the hard part and the mounting bolts are to short for this. The longer bolts allow you to get it started. Just visualize the input shaft going perfectly straight into the bellhousing.

I just used a floor jack with the car on jackstands.. It would be nice with a lift and proper trans jack..$$$ It will be easier with two people under there pushing, but I didn't have help. I had longer bolts!

One last thing.. Hooking the cable end on the pawl.. Push the trans side of the cable all the way in as far as it goes to give yourself as much slack as possible. You can get your hand under the dash at a certain angle to grap the cable and hook it onto the pawl quite easily, but it's tight under there and it might take you a while to figure it out.. If you need to install a aftermarket quadrant, you're in it for the long haul and you'll need to take out the seat to make it happen..

Report back. I'll chime in with my experience too. I should have it running by the weekend easily.
 

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Took it for a driver this afternoon.. This clutch GRIPS.. It doesn't really slip at all.. You need to be more precise with the pedal. Only did about 35 miles.. The recommended 500 is going to take forever..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You guys are getting me excited to start the install. As soon as I’m done with this I can’t wait to add boost.
 

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Is your flywheel a mcleod one?

if not, check the to make sure the flywheel surface fully captures the friction disc

the unique smaller disc, moves friction material inboard, most flywheels are designed for the single disc that has a smaller outer strip
 
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