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Discussion Starter #1
My driver's side tail pipe sits about two inches too far forward, which is must to clear the panhard bar.


If the tailpipe were any further backwards, it would contact the panhard bar and make a lot of noise. The PHB can't be back any further because of the fuel tank.


Here is a view of where the torque arm meets the cross member. The long bolt that goes through the bushing is VERY close to the X portion of my X-pipe. If I were to shorten the bolt, it would be almost impossible to get the nut started when reinstalling the torque arm. Please note also that the top portion of the rubber bushing has been cut in half. This needed to be done to keep the top of the bolt from contacting the driveshaft...which it still does anyway on rare occassions.


The driveshaft isn't in bad shape...yet. I have GOT to rid of this torque arm before that becomes a severe safety hazard though. I might add that this is a very small diameter (3.5") driveshaft that replaced the larger FMS aluminum driveshaft I had previously. There was no mention that the driveshaft and torque arm bushing would be occupying the same space, but they were all too happy to sell me a smaller driveshaft.


So due to the bolt of the torque arm being in close contact to the X-pipe, the exhaust piping is forced to dip down well below the cross member right in the center of the car, where ground clearance is needed the most.


Even with the exhaust where it is, there is still only an inch or so between the cross member and the X-pipe. It couldn't come up much higher due to the straight nature of the cross member. The cross member is firmly in the "dimple" in the floor pan as per the instructions. It could not go any higher, and again, if it were higher, it would hit the driveshaft (even more).



I am really looking forward to cutting these out and installing the Maximum Motorsports parts I've ordered.
 

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Have you talked to Griggs?I would be interested in their reply.
 

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I posted in another thread about stuff related to this here... http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1270287
post 14 I think. I'll add for you that I didn't have any problems with my driveshaft hitting the TA bolt. They WILL BARELY touch when the car is on jackstands and the wheels are at full droop, but they never touch when driving the car on the street since I'm never at full droop then. I also had no problems with the crossmember for the TA interferring with my midpipe, which is a MAC prochamber, probably the largest midpipe out there, that I know of. I can't help you with the tailpipe issue, I don't have tailpipes anymore, didn't have them when I installed the TA/PHB. What year is your car?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Have you talked to Griggs?I would be interested in their reply.
I have not spoken to them. I am of the opinion that the problems are more of a design issue. I don't think there is much to be done about the specific problems I am having other than changing to parts that designed better. I am not certain if Griggs has changed their parts any. I purchased mine in 1999 and 2000, so it has been a long time. I finally grew tired of all the clearance issues I've been having (even after reverting to stock springs and ride height) and decided I'd be better of swapping.


I posted in another thread about stuff related to this here... http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1270287
post 14 I think. I'll add for you that I didn't have any problems with my driveshaft hitting the TA bolt. They WILL BARELY touch when the car is on jackstands and the wheels are at full droop, but they never touch when driving the car on the street since I'm never at full droop then. I also had no problems with the crossmember for the TA interferring with my midpipe, which is a MAC prochamber, probably the largest midpipe out there, that I know of. I can't help you with the tailpipe issue, I don't have tailpipes anymore, didn't have them when I installed the TA/PHB. What year is your car?
It is very difficult to judge scale by pictures, but it seems to me that your newer Mustang has a deeper transmission tunnel, or perhaps it's the channel where your cross member sits. Even your DS safety loop sits higher than the T/A cross member. I have a 1989 coupe. The exhaust NEEDS to move up, but there is just nowhere for it to go with this design.

Edit: I might also mention that I have had three different exhaust mid-pipes on the car with the T/A installed. The first was a Mac off road H-pipe, the second was a BBK catted X-pipe for shorty headers, and now a BBK off-road X-pipe with long tubes. All three of them have had the same clearance issues with not being high enough in the center of the car and still have clearance for the torque arm to move.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How much $$$$ shipped to 75071 for the junky-ass-driveshaft-rubbing torque arm? ;)
LOL...I don't know. The local dyno guy has already expressed an interest in buying it when I get it removed and that wouldn't require shipping. I dread to think what it would cost to ship it. I'm still a month or so away (at least) from installing all my new stuff, so we'll see what happens. I'll keep you in mind.
 

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An exhaust shop moved the "X" to clear the cross-member on my torque arm. If a shop in CA will do that...I'm sure you can find one too. ;)
 

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Would a button-head fastener help at all for the bushing to driveshaft clearance? A few mm of extra space might be enough that it doesn't make contact.


cheers
Ed N.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Would a button-head fastener help at all for the bushing to driveshaft clearance? A few mm of extra space might be enough that it doesn't make contact.


cheers
Ed N.
I had to do a search to see what you meant by button-head fastener. I don't know that much clearance would be gained. It's a moot point though, these Griggs parts are getting cut out and replaced with MM parts. I now have on order everything I need from front to rear.
 

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i love my MM stuff, the torque arm and cross member they use is completly different compared to GR

and MM is cheaper and i think better for street driven mustangs...

my whole car will end up being MM
 

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Where did that drive shaft come from? Who makes it? I would love to get my hands on one to replace my FRPP unit. I have problems with it coming in contact with the E -brake bracket under the car. Did allot of damage to the DS before I finally found out what the thump was after I'd hit large dips in the road with people in the car. I want to keep an aluminum DS and if there's a smaller diameter one out there I want it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Where did that drive shaft come from? Who makes it?
I don't know who makes it, but I ordered it from Griggs Racing. It was very expensive...even back in 2000. I think I paid something like $369 for it, but that may no be correct. There was no way the FMS (FRPP of the time) was going to clear the T/A crossmember.

BTW, I started grinding on my panhard bar today. I've got one side loose and will resume cutting on the driver's tomorrow. My MM PHB just arrived via UPS today. Front control arms and assorted small parts are due Thursday.
 

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something very odd, I run the HD TA and frpp Al driveshaft, with plenty of clearance at that spot, with the rearend at full travel?

Was the pinion to trans angle set?

It looks like you are not running rear C/O, that is the only diff that I may have...
 

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I'm just brainstorming here.....as for that drivers side tailpipe could you add a couple inch extension in the straight part right behind the axle to move the tip back 2 inches? That shouldn't affect any clearance issues. I guess you already ripped it out so it doesn't matter, huh.

How's the install going? I'd love to see before and after photos and hear what you think of the two systems back to back.
 

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As a side note, my MM PHB and T/A setup required some exhaust modifications to fit properly. My exhaust pipes had to be cut and re-welded to fit over my axle and my bassani x-pipe needed slight cutting and welding to clear the cross member due to the t/a setup. Not sure how different it is from the Griggs setup but I definitely needed to modify my exhaust to make it all clear one another.
 

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I've been putting off fiddling with the tailpipes on my car but I've got the
same issues with them contacting the under-carriage. Stupid slip joints keep doing just that even being tightened as much as I can get them.

I've got a couple of rolls of 308 stainless wire, I just need to get a small bottle of the correct welding gas for my MIG (and the initiative to just do it already).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm just brainstorming here.....as for that drivers side tailpipe could you add a couple inch extension in the straight part right behind the axle to move the tip back 2 inches? That shouldn't affect any clearance issues. I guess you already ripped it out so it doesn't matter, huh.

How's the install going? I'd love to see before and after photos and hear what you think of the two systems back to back.
Woah...my old thread back from the dead. It's lucky I saw it because I don't come to the Corral much anymore since autoforums took over. :(

I originally posted this in December of 2010. I ended up getting a welder for Christmas, and in March of 2011, I took care of the low hanging exhaust problem. It never did any good for the tailpipe alignment though because I didn't want to hack up my tailpipe. I'm glad I didn't because they fit just fine around the MM parts. I did have to do a lot of "adjustments" to the H-pipe though.

I detailed the entire suspension installation process in a thread on Southeastern Foxbodies: Maximum Motorsports Suspension Installation - SoutheasternFoxBodies.com Forums

There are pictures of my first exhaust modification in post #64: SoutheasternFoxBodies.com Forums - View Single Post - Maximum Motorsports Suspension Installation
 

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CorteXRacing.com - the new cutting edge in suspension design! I recently upgraded to their Watts link & torque arm, really well thought out and designed parts, and good people!
 
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