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Discussion Starter #1
So after some changes on my coupe and some dyno tuning, we decided it was time to hit the track and get some runs in. It has some more left in it with some more seat time. I only made two full passes because the factory worn out drum brakes weren't up to the task of stopping at 156MPh...lol So the next 2 passes were only 1/8 mile trying to see how much boost I can leave on. Best 60ft was a 1.35 and best 1/4 et was a [email protected] with a 1.5 60. Best 1/8th mile was a [email protected] with a 1.35 60. Here are some vids and timeslips.

First pass was 4psi on the brake and part throttle til abt the 1/8 then I mashed the gas down. You can hear the gate open up at half track...lol The guys though I left on 2nd gear....lol [email protected] 1.7 60ft
Lujan Motorsports Alex Turbo Mustang Boss306 PBIR 08/17 First Test Pass [email protected] - YouTube


Second pass I left on more boost, abt 8psi and part throttled it til abt the 330 mark. [email protected] 1.53 60 ft
Lujan Motorsports Alex Turbo Mustang Boss306 PBIR 08/17 Second Test pass [email protected] - YouTube


Third pass I left on more boost 12psi, the car hooked but I got out of the groove and spun tire so I let off but still managed a 1.37 60
Lujan Motorsports Alex Turbo Mustang Boss306 PBIR 08/17 Test Pass - YouTube

Fourth pass I left at abt the same boost but stayed in the groove and let off in the 1/8th. [email protected] 1.35 60ft
Lujan Motorsports Alex Turbo Mustang Boss306 PBIR 08/17 1/8 pass [email protected] - YouTube


Since the car kept getting better and better, I tried to raise the 2step 200rpm more but it flashed the converter and the boost climbed to abt 18psi. I still tried to launch it but the tires broke loose.
Lujan Motorsports Alex Turbo Mustang Boss306 PBIR 08/17 High Boost 60ft Test - YouTube

I backed the 2step down and tried to do a full 1/4 mile pass for the last run but the track started getting cold and resulted in tire spin.
The car ran perfect, nice and straight down the track, no leaks, no overheating, nothing. Going to take care of a few things, then heading back for some more hits and hopefully that 8sec pass :evil:
 

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Take the porportioning valve out of the brake system and the brakes will stop you a lot better. Factory is 90/10 split with valve. Take valve out and goes more like 70/30 - 60/40. I did on mine because couldn't stop also so did this and stop pretty well now. Nothing great but a lot better with the drums.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Holy Crap!! That getting it done Alex.
I have drum brakes and factory replacement 4 cylinder fronts. I know what you mean about slowing it down and you are WAYYY faster than me.
Great job!!!
thanks!!! On the 9.1 pass, I got a little freaked out, it didn't feel like it was going to stop but then at he end it did.
The track prep was crap since there was only like 20 cars out, you can see the concrete on one of the runs.
thanks again man
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Take the porportioning valve out of the brake system and the brakes will stop you a lot better. Factory is 90/10 split with valve. Take valve out and goes more like 70/30 - 60/40. I did on mine because couldn't stop also so did this and stop pretty well now. Nothing great but a lot better with the drums.
that's the thing, I don't have any drum brakes left due to not having a line lock..lol 4yrs of burnouts at the track. I'm just going with some disc brakes in the rear and a line lock. Thanks for the tip tho, I didn't know abt that.
 

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Take the porportioning valve out of the brake system and the brakes will stop you a lot better. Factory is 90/10 split with valve. Take valve out and goes more like 70/30 - 60/40. I did on mine because couldn't stop also so did this and stop pretty well now. Nothing great but a lot better with the drums.
and thats all u did was take the valve out? im def gonna try this so i would like to know if there is anymore steps..
 

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On the factory master-cylinder you have 3 lines coming out of it. the first 2 front go to the front brakes. First one goes to the passenger side front caliper and the middle one (2nd) goes to the driver front caliper. The rear line goes to the rear brakes. The factory (T) fitting on rearend to each drum brake cylinder. I just ties into the line that were going the the porportioning valve for the rear brakes and the passenger side front caliper. You will need to get a few adapter fittings and maybe a few new short brake lines to finish off but that about it. Takes less than an hour to do once have everything you need to do and no issues. First one I did took a few hours (lol) had to make 3-4 trips to the advance store to keep getting fittings and lines. Hope this helps.

Side note for more braking power you can get a master-cylinder from a dodge 4 door passenger car from 80s and can tie into system. Has larger pressure valves in it and has more stopping pressure. Only two lines coming out so for the front you (T) off to each front caliper and do the rear the same as the factory master-cylinder.

Sorry to hi-jack your post 93alexcoupe..
 

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Awesome work man! A real credit to ya.
As said above, 156mph! Wow!
Would have loved to see that last pass which went 5.7 to the 1/8th go to full track!
 

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thanks determinedford much apprciated.. gonna try it out..

Alex if that thing ever hooks at high boost ur gonna be in the 7ss mark my words.. Thats super nasty for a street driven car... And side note let me know when u do ill come put some money on u ..lol Thanks for the help..
 
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