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quick revver, what were numbers?
That was a pull from 2,000 - 7,000...... It only made 590 to the wheels and me and Jody are scratching our heads because we thought it'd be more.

Specs.

331 Dart or Man O War block (can't remember what he said. This isn't mine lol)
F1C procharger with Cogs makes 17psi

120lb holley injectors @ 7000 rpm were 62% duty cycle

Just seems like it would make more than 590rwhp.

He has 4in piping throughout. According to procharger the F1C only needs 3in. Could this be hurting this motor?

Thanks for any input guys.
 

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Jody, list your other specs here and these guys will be able to pin point the area if somethings not right.

What heads? Intake runner size and valves
Compression
Intake
Throttle body
Camshaft
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Jody, list your other specs here and these guys will be able to pin point the area if somethings not right.

What heads? Intake runner size and valves
Compression
Intake
Throttle body
Camshaft
Specs.

331 Dart Block Fast XFI 2.0 with XIM cop
F1C procharger with Cogs makes 17psi air to air
TWR 206 cc runners been ported to 347 cfm @.700 lift
10:1 comp.
Super Vic EFI intake
92mm throttle body
120lb holley injectors @ 7000 rpm were 62% duty cycle
244-254 @.05
.656-.672 lift
PA C4
water/meth but haven't tuned it yet.


all on 93 octane
Just seems like it would make more than 590rwhp.
1st time to the track leaving at idle 6.34 @ 105
I don't know what the converter flashes to since first time down the track. I will get that and RPM drop next time.

Has 4in piping throughout. According to procharger the F1C only needs 3in. Could this be hurting this motor?
 

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So, how much power on pump gas do you think a 331 should make at 17 psi? There can not be much timing in the engine and that is killing power I would guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I checked this evening hit the transbrake button went to 4400. 10" PTC built for this combo.

I do have a speed sensor but not completely hooked up.
 

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I checked this evening hit the transbrake button went to 4400. 10" PTC built for this combo.

I do have a speed sensor but not completely hooked up.

I'd still like to know finish line RPM. PTC builds great converters, and assuming it was specked for that combo I'm sure it's good. But from the issue your seeing and listening to the dyno video my money is still on a converter issue.
 

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I'd still like to know finish line RPM. PTC builds great converters, and assuming it was specked for that combo I'm sure it's good. But from the issue your seeing and listening to the dyno video my money is still on a converter issue.
Freezy, I know you're a knowledgable guy so when i ask this question I'm not being a smart ass, just trying to understand the logic as to I've never understood the term "blowing through the converter" Wouldn't this make more power on the dyno? If the power was "blowing through the converter" and getting to the wheels quicker? Versus having power tied up in the converter?

Again, serious question. Maybe I'm reading into it too much, and am being too literal.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Freezy, I know you're a knowledgable guy so when i ask this question I'm not being a smart ass, just trying to understand the logic as to I've never understood the term "blowing through the converter" Wouldn't this make more power on the dyno? If the power was "blowing through the converter" and getting to the wheels quicker? Versus having power tied up in the converter?

Again, serious question. Maybe I'm reading into it too much, and am being too literal.

I think it's loosing power in the converter and not getting to the wheels, but i'm not sure though.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Where did the converter flash to? In the video it just kind of sounded like it was blowing through it. What mph were you seeing on the dyno?
Freezy 74,
I was just told 120.5 mph was the max speed on one of the dyno pulls. That's with 28" tire 3:73 gears.

I do want thank everyone for their help and info on this.
 

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Freezy 74,
I was just told 120.5 mph was the max speed on one of the dyno pulls. That's with 28" tire 3:73 gears.

I do want thank everyone for their help and info on this.
According to my "not as accurate as a drive shaft sensor" calculator, which is usually + or - 2 percent from the drive shaft sensors I've compared it to, Its showing with 120 MPH 7000 rpm you have about 30.32% converter slip. This is what I would call "blowing through the converter". Basically, your converter is never actually coupling to the motor. As the motor accelerates, wheel speed starts to catch up to motor rpm and slip goes down. Your wheels are never actually catching up, and the motor rpm is just running right through what the converter can hold so it’s not really transferring anywhere near the power to the wheels as it should. On the dyno the car almost sounded like it wasn't in high gear it was slipping so badly. I’m not exactly a Trans guy so I’m sure others might be able to explain it better.

Usually on the dyno if the converter is close we will see 5-12% depending on combo and how tight it is. The looser ones will usually tighten up some going down track. 30% is just WAY to excessive. IMO that’s the first thing you need addressed. Some slip is good and needed. That is where your torque multiplication comes from. But finding that line of torque multiplication and just slipping is key. This is the type if set up, you can change a blower pulley, motor will make 50 more HP and if will either run the same or even slow down because it will accelerate through the converter that much worse. This absolutely needs to be the first thing you mess with.

On the flip side, the Trans should live a long happy life this way lol…

Not sure if that made sense or not. Like I was saying, Trans stuff is not my area of expertise. Unless of course we are talking about breaking them lol…
 
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