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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone using one ?

Got mine in today and the truck oil pan hits like crazy and not close to lining up.

its actually rubbing where the sump arches back in to the shallow part of the pan, I know the sump of the truck pan may hang too low but im just mocking it up for now.


from the looks of the pics it looks like the sump of the car oil pan is not as deep in the sump area but still looks like it will hit where the sump "arches" back in to the shallow part of the pan.


any thoughts?


ill call team Z monday but trying to figure something out this weekend.
 

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i just bolted my Team Z k memeber in and it fine in the car. going to pick my 5.3 up on monday and drop it in the car for a test fit. ill let you know how it goes!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dave actually emailed me this morning.

There is an issue with mine. He's sending me out a new one.

Good customer service for sure.
 

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Any updates on this? Mine will be here Tuesday.
 

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91fiveonotchs motor lools pretty cozy in his car with the 5.3 and truck pan in it
 

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there was an issue with the first gen k members. dave used an aftermarket pan which needed less clearance. he is going to redo (maybe already done) the k member around an f body pan to make sure it clears. there's a thread on ls1tech.com in the conversion forum about this
 

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the motor is in the car, its a 5.3 from a 2000 silverado. nothing done to it just a set of injectors made to fit and some cleaning.

the oil pan clears with plenty of space but does hang low. Nothing worse than a set of longtubes id say.

ill have pictures as soon as i get home for everyone who needs them!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Mine is in too- few things were off but i guess its in and thats the important part.

the truck pan does sit low. Ive heard the car pan will not work with the current version and he may be re designing them- sucks for us that bought the first design who assumed a car pan would fit- should be some note on the site about the pan fitment in my opinion.

the lsx block plate to sbc mount had block to bolt interference and the block will have to be notched.

the motor didnt line up to the k member with the mounts installed on the block and torqued.

I had to loosen up the 4 plate to block bolts then put then engine mount bolt in and then re-tighten the block plate bolts- kind of a PITA.

the SBC mount is maybe 3/8 wider than the k member where the bolt goes thru but cinched down when i hammered it down with the impact gun.


im sure the 2nd version will be improved- after all we are not running windows 95 or have iphone 1's anymore right ?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Dave responded in this thread about the problems with the fitment of the car pan. I definitely think he will make things right. Starts in post 57:

Fox LS-swap k-member options... - Page 3 - LS1TECH

yes- I posted in that thread as well and understand why the car pan doesnt fit.

My first k member was replaced and the 2nd one clears the truck pan just fine.

there are a few more tweaks needed and I sent Dave the pics of the area's that could used to be tweaked.
 

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Cool. Is it something he'll be able to make work by making new mounts? Or does the K-member have to be redesigned?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Cool. Is it something he'll be able to make work by making new mounts? Or does the K-member have to be redesigned?

not sure exactly - if your talking about the car pan fitment i think that will be a k member redesign.

as far as the minor fitment issues- they are easy enough to work around once you figure them out.
 

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This guy ran it in a fox coupe. But he just used motor mount adapters instead of K-member. He said :

"Ya I just measured it, the F body one is about 5.25 inches, the pan I got is about 7.5. The swap pan was 156.00 shipped with everything. I have a 5th gen pan on the motor now and that one is way to big. At least I can set the motor in with this one and get some stuff mocked up. I'll change it later if I think its to low. Thanks!"

Here is his thread

http://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1538191-88-notch-lm7-s480-build.html

 

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Discussion Starter #16

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How about modifying the truck pan by cutting it down? I know people have done that. What all is involved? I assume the pickup has to be shortened too. Anything else?
 

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I had the same problems.

the block needed notching so instead i threw about a inch of weld on the top of the plate.

the mounts needed to be unbolted from the other side just to match up then retightened.

also i made 1/4" spacers out of aluminum stock on a lathe to make up for that gap.

overall im impressed though
 

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I had the same problems.

the block needed notching so instead i threw about a inch of weld on the top of the plate.

the mounts needed to be unbolted from the other side just to match up then retightened.

also i made 1/4" spacers out of aluminum stock on a lathe to make up for that gap.

overall im impressed though
Have any pictures? I'm having a hard time visualizing what you are talking about. Having a blonde moment I guess lol
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Have any pictures? I'm having a hard time visualizing what you are talking about. Having a blonde moment I guess lol





the block has to be clearanced behind that missing bolt. (the top missing bolt) there is a casting rib on the block right there- took 5 minutes with a die grinder.

the bottom bolt in the pics thats missing fits fine- it was just missing in the pic

there is a decent gap between the mount and k member- mine squeezed together using an impact gun. who knows what it will be like when I remove it- you may want to just shim it with washers.


I had to loosen up the 4 bolts that hold the "plate" to the block to get the "mount" to line up with the k member then retighten.
 
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