Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 123 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just completed this project on my 91LX. As promised, here is my writeup. Before you say, "not another Taurus fan how-to", let me explain:

There are several how-to's on installing a Taurus fan on a Fox-body, and even a couple out there that touch on doing the install using
Flexalite's 33054 Variable Speed Controller. None that I've found actually tell you how to tap into the stock Ford wiring under the hood.

What follows is the way I did the install, with some info on the prep/installation of the fan/shroud, but with explicit wiring
instructions. Thanks to corralers red82gt for answering my questions before the install, CRFrider16 for confirming the 40A fuse
requirement, and MFE for his previous how to. Honorable mention to macx for his own writeup.

Overview of what to do:

Fan:

Mount Taurus fan upside down, all the way to passenger side of radiator (to clear crank pulley). One protrusion must be cut off the
shroud, and rubber weather stripping added to the passenger side.

Overflow bottle goes in near-stock position. Requires longer hose, 2 screws to mount to shroud, and band iron attached to shroud to make a
mount for one of the overflow bottle's bottom tabs.

2 L-brackets are mounted to the bottom of the shroud to fit into the stock clips on the bottom frame (previously used by stock shroud).

Top gets 3 plastic radiator pass-thru zip ties to mount the top of the shroud/fan assembly snugly to the radiator. Requires 3 holes be
drilled in appropriate locations of the shroud.

(Optional) clock motor so wires come out the top
- grind squared-off tab so round tab can fit on it

I used small machine-thread nuts and bolts to fasten everything. I will be putting all my wiring into plastic loom, but I left them
exposed for the pics so you could see what I did.

Flexalite 33054 VSC:

Mount near stock airbox on passenger side of engine bay. Uses one sheet metal screw in pre-existing hole.
You should buy this unit (about $95 at Summit) because the cheaper ones can't handle the amps of the Taurus fan, and will fail (from post
on another thread by a disappointed user)!

Electrical connections as follows:

Key-on Hot (VSC pin #9): Use 14ga wire and splice into hot to Cannister Purge Solenoid. Routed up to vsc (nearby, above).

AC Compressor On (VSC pin #8): use 14ga wire and splice into black wire in loom before the compressor connector. This wire feeds the
Black/Yellow compressor wire after connector. Splice is near fuse links and ignition coil. 14ga wire is routed around rear of engine
compartment to the vsc.

Hot from battery (VSC red wire): use 10ga wire and rout it around rear of engine compartment to the bolt on the starter relay that connects
directly to battery hot. 40A FUSE wired inline near strut tower.

Negative to battery (VSC black wire): use 10ga wire and rout around rear of engine compartment to the bolt on the engine compartment wall
very near the battery that connects directly to battery negative.

Fan HI Hot (VSC yellow): use 10ga wire and crimp it to the wire which feeds Blue fan wire (or crimp directly to blue if you're not using
the stock fan connector). Routed past airbox to front of engine compartment.

Fan Negative (VSC purple): use 10ga wire and crimp it to the wire which feeds Black fan wire. Same routing.

Fan's low speed wire is not used and is sealed off.

Temp sensor (VSC #10 & #11): sensor is inserted into radiator between fins near coolant feed hose to radiator (pass side of radiator).

Attached Wires follow same path as fan Hot/Neg to VSC.

Note: I know my engine needs to be detailed :eek:

Prepping the fan and shroud:

Remove the protrusion on the shroud that would prevent the shroud from sitting flush on the radiator. Cut shroud with hacksaw, grind sharp
edges off with dremel (or coarse sand paper).





The lip around the shroud doesn't leave a lot of room for the radiator zip fasteners. I used 3 across the top to secure the
shroud/fan/overflow bottle to the radiator. Here is a photo of the passenger side upper corner, with the hole I drilled and the trimmed
zip fastener. Bend the stem of the fastener to allow the head to fit the contour of the shroud.



Use 2 L-brackets in the locations shown so they fit into the stock clips in the lower frame (that the stock shroud used). Bend them a
little bit towards the back of the car so the shroud is pressed up against the radiator. The driver's side L had to be trimmed a little
since the shroud was shallower there.



Drill 2 holes in the shroud to be used with the stock holes of the overflow bottle. The center hole of the bottle uses a washer. I made a
mounting bracket out of galvanized band iron. One of the overflow bottle's lower tabs fits into it (much like the L-brackets do on with
the frame clips). You could put a screw through the band iron once the bottle is in there, but I didn't bother. It was secure enough just
sitting in it. The photo shows the location of the bolts that would fasten the bottle to the shroud, and the bandiron mounting bracket
(see arrows):



OPTIONAL: I wanted the fan's stock wiring to come up the top. To do this I had to "clock" it by removing the screws and rotating the
plate 1 hole counterclockwise. This required grinding the one square tab so the round mount could fit on it correctly. The photo shows
the screws removed, the square tab next to its former mount, and the mount ground (with dremel) so that it was rounded off. NOTE: I found
the wire loom is kind of in the way when you have to change the serpentine belt (using a 1/2" ratchet to move the tensioner). You may not
want to bother with this. I did it and took pics though, so I'm including it here:



Lastly, the passenger side of the shroud needs to be sealed with rubber weather stripping. I used Frost King 3/8"x7/16".



Install the fan/shroud/bottle as previously mentioned: the L-brackets fit into the stock frame clips, then use 3 thru-radiator zips across
the top to hold the whole thing snug against the radiator. My shroud doesn't move at all and is tight up against the radiator. This pic
shows the clearance with the crank pulley and the stock wiring loom run up the top. You can just see the second zip fastener at the edge
of the picture in the lower right. The third is in an obvious location by the overflow bottle (not shown).




Flex-a-lite VSC

I removed the airbox so you could see better in the pics.

Key-on Hot:
The first thing I did was figure out where to get the Key-on-hot from. Thanks to Joel5.0 for this info from another thread. I
spliced into the hot feed to the Canister Purge Solenoid, which is keyed of course. This insulation was hard to strip off - it is bonded
to the wire. I carefully used a razor knife to remove the insulation without damaging the copper wire. You could just use a tap here, but
I wanted the splice to be housed safely in the wire loom, and a tap would not fit. The pics show the Solenoid with the cut wire; my crimp;
the crimp shrinkwrapped; then the taped up loom. The 14ga wire I used is run up from below the stock airbox to the VSC and attaches to VSC
pin #9. The photos are good examples of how I did my connections:










Fan power, Pos + Neg:
With the fan mounted, I drilled 2 holes in the shroud for the stock wire loom clips (which you can also see in a previous pic). I got my
fan with the loom connector intact, so I kept it and spliced into the connector wires (not the fan wires themselves). Use only the
high-speed feed wire and seal off the low speed wire. Use 10ga wire for both Pos and Neg, and rout the wires above the airbox (which I
did) or below it, to the VSC. Positive fan power goes to VSC Yellow wire; Negative goes to VSC Purple. The pic shows the 10ga wires
shrinkwrapped, and the low speed wire sealed off with shrinkwrap that I squeezed together while it was hot so it bonded to itself.


Temperature sensor:
In the pic above, you can also see the 2 wires just coming out of the temperature sensor. I pushed the sensor through the radiator and put
the plastic cover on the sensor's tip on the front side of the radiator, as per the instructions. This is so the sensor isn't cooled by
onrushing air. The 2 thin sensor wires are routed along with the 10ga fan wires. They connect to VSC terminals #10 and #11 (either wire
can go to either terminal). You can see them all held together using that red ziptie.


Battery main supply and negative:
These wires feed the power to the system. Use 10ga wire. Battery hot connects to the VSC Red wire, and the battery negative to the VSC
Black wire. Rout them around the back of the engine compartment to the battery/fuse link area on the driver's side. I used ring terminals
and connected them like this: the hot wire gets bolted to the hot of the starter relay (which is fed directly by the battery hot. The
negative gets screwed down with one of the body grounds that is connected directly to the battery negative wire. The pic shows me pointing
to both - pinky neg, index hot.



40A fuse:
The hot wire gets a 40A inline fuse. The one I used allowed male spade connectors to be inserted into it (see pic). I put this to the
back of the strut tower, away from the hood hinge.



AC power on feed:
Lastly, I tapped into the AC Hot feed using 14ga wire, routed around the back of the engine compartment with the battery hot/neg. It
connects to VSC terminal #8. This allows the VSC to turn the fan on at 60% when the AC is turned on even if the engine is cold. I tapped
into the wire feeding the Black/Yellow AC wire. The first pic shows the tap taped up within the loom (I will probably replace this with a
splice to better fit into the loom, as I did with the key-on hot). The second shows it with the Black/Yellow wire it shares the signal
with.


(Hey! you've got 2 left hands! Nope, just my bro helping out).




The VSC mounts using one screw in a pre-existing hole behing the MAF. I trimmed its corner just a touch. The wiring doesn't look neat,
again, because I left it open for you to see. I'll be "looming it up" soon.



How it works:
You adjust the temperature that the VSC turns the fan on (at 60%) by turning a tiny screw in the center of the unit. As the engine temp
increases, the VSC speeds up the fan, until at 10 degrees over the 'ON' temp, the fan is running at 100%. As stated before, turning the AC
on automatically turns the fan on at 60% (unless it was already running at whatever speed). It works great, keeps the car cool, but be
warned that in stop and go with the lights on, my charge gauge was at the bottom of "normal" with the stock alternator. 130A alternator
will be another upcoming project. Kenne Bell standard blower kit too!

I hope this helps anyone wanting to do this install. I highly recommend it!
Regards,
bigred302 :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
Good one! Definitely adds to the
knowledge base on these installs.

Gonna book mark it along with the others
you mentioned.

Getting to the point maybe there outta be
a sticky on this subject with links?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
27,653 Posts
Well, there's always the Tech Articles, and I added this thread link to my writeup there
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
Great post!! Im assuming you can use the VSC for the mark fan as well.? and if im not running a/c just lignore that part?? thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
Great write up. I just have a question about where you spliced into the hot feed to the Canister Purge Solenoid. How do I know which wire is the hot wire on the solenoid? From the picture I can't tell which wire is the hot. From the looks of it also did you cut the hot wire in half then strip it then soldered the control wire to that?
Any fedback would be great.
Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Great post!! Im assuming you can use the VSC for the mark fan as well.? and if im not running a/c just lignore that part?? thank you
Hi

Sorry for the delay - I was on vacation in Nicaragua! Talk about new perspectives on life! But that's off-topic here.

To answer your question about the Mark VIII, I read somewhere that the Mark VIII and Taurus fans use the same motor. HOWEVER, I believe that is bad info; according to Flex-a-lite, the 33054 (which is their beefiest controller) can NOT handle the Mark VIII. See macx's comment at the end of the original thread I started regarding this install here:

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=941747

Seems like they guys here use the DCC controller with their Mark VIII's. If anyone knows otherwise, please inform us...

And yes, just ignore the AC part if you don't have AC or don't want to use that feature.

HTH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Great write up. I just have a question about where you spliced into the hot feed to the Canister Purge Solenoid. How do I know which wire is the hot wire on the solenoid? From the picture I can't tell which wire is the hot. From the looks of it also did you cut the hot wire in half then strip it then soldered the control wire to that?
Any fedback would be great.
Chris
BTW - Thanks to everyone for the positive feedback.

To answer Chris' questions - you are correct, both solenoid wires are black. To test for hot do this:

Disconnect the solenoid connector.
Get out your 12V test light. Find a good ground (such as the bolthead of a chassis ground wire) and clip your test light to it.
Key on your ignition, but don't start your car - you'll hear your fuel pump come on.
Carefully probe the connector, one contact at a time. When your test light lights up, you've found the hot wire.


I didn't do any soldering, that's a butt connector with the yellow insulation removed. I cut the solenoid hot wire, put the supply side in the butt connector and crimped it, then put the solenoid side and control wire (to the VSC) in the other side of the butt connector and crimped them. I removed the yellow plastic insulation for two reasons: so you could see the crimp; and so it would be less bulky in the wire loom. Since I was going to shrinkwrap the crimp anyway, I didn't need the yellow insulation. In fact, I removed the insulation from all the butt connectors I used and shrinkwrapped them, then taped them.


I should also mention, all splicing/wiring work was done with the battery disconnected! Normally, you only need to disconnect the battery NEGATIVE, but I was testing the fan directly on the battery at times (high amp draw), and didn't want to risk any possiblility of an accidental surge to the computer.

Good Luck. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
This seems to be the most complete write up on this so far. Thanks for the info. The Mark VIII fans seem to really be a problem with the amount of current they draw. Wish someone had an easy solution for these.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,658 Posts
Great write up man!! I have a question. Ive seen instructions on wiring one of these to just stay on all the time(without the controller you used). Is this a safe way to do it? Any negatives to this way of installing it? THANKS!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
This seems to be the most complete write up on this so far. Thanks for the info. The Mark VIII fans seem to really be a problem with the amount of current they draw. Wish someone had an easy solution for these.
I've been running a 94 Mark VIII fan on this controller for a little over a month now and haven't had any problems. I just made sure to send in the warranty card for the vsc incase I do :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,096 Posts
Thanks for this great write-up and MFE's!!! Installed mine yesterday and will try posting some pics soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,096 Posts
I've got the 30 or 35 one, not sure, but it works fine for me......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
I'm pretty sure I used a 40amp.

You could use either a fusible link or a breaker - a link
takes a tad longer to blow so it wouldn't blow on the
hi amp draw on startup. A breaker is resettable so
you wouldn't need to worry about having spare fuses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Just to be 110% sure....the black wire with the yellow stripe is the one that will kick on the fan when the AC is turned on?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,096 Posts
I think mine is black with green stripe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
While the Taurus fan has worked fine on my moderately warmed up 351, I have later found that the FAL actually will run a Lincoln Mark VIII fan just fine, in spite of the fact that FAL says it won't. (maybe so they can sell their own fans?)

I've got an earlier Mark VIII on my 5.9 SUV with the larger of the 2 FAL controllers and it works great.

And the Mark VIII fan draws actually hardly more amps but pulls quite a bit more air because of the improved blade design, and of course is larger so covers more of the radiator.

If you need some amp or size specs on a Mk8 fan, let me know.
 
1 - 20 of 123 Posts
Top