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Discussion Starter #1
I could use help from the voice of experience about T-5 shifters. I am new to tracking this transmission.

I have a refreshed T-5 with what looks like an Econoshift.

I am having two problems with downshifts.

From 4th or 5th to 3rd, the H pattern is pretty narrow and I have trouble finding 3rd. I wind up in 5th instead when I'm trying to accelerate off the apex.

Also, each shift on the shifter kind of "clicks" in, with some resistance. Feels cool on the street, but when I'm trying to downshift into 3rd, sometimes I just can't get in in gear before turn-in. I wish I didn't have that little click-in resistance.

I am use to Getrag boxes with a wider H and a smooth notch.

Is there another brand of shifter that would be wider, or have less click? Or is this just the way the forks shift on a T-5?

Thanks for your time.
 

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I love my Hurst shifter, short throw from the 90s. But I haven't had to buy a shifter in 20 years so there may be better, more modern options out there.
 

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Any of the reputable aftermarket shifters should be good. I have a hurst and like it. I had a steeda tri ax in my cobra and really liked it. My friend had a Pro 5.0cand MGW and they were both good as well.
 

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Over the last 13 or so years, I've had a Pro5.0, MGW, 2 Hursts, and a cheapo $60 off brand. I had them in different cars and was hoping to find one that stood out amongst the others. Honestly, they all work just about the same. However, the off brand came with poorly cut threads and the softest chinesium hardware money can't buy. If your shifter feels "clunky" or you have that click before engagement it may be your trans. Remove your shifter and cycle the handle back and forth and side to side. You'll notice there arent any detents to "click" into. Good luck.
 

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You realize the folly of stubby shifters when you're strapped in tight and can't easily reach 3rd. Steeda doesn't make their longer, higher-offset Comfort Pro handle anymore and if you can't find one used, best bet is MGW. FWIW Hurst used to make a different shifter for the t-bird which was really the same shifter with a handle more offset to the left and back for easier reach. Not sure if they still do.
 

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The "click" doesn't come from the shifter or the shift forks, it comes from the internal shift gate in the tail of the transmission. Directly under the shifter plate is a block that houses a spring and checkball. Under that block is a shift gate with detents for the checkball, and groves for a tab that's on the bottom side of the shift block. I think all you need to get it apart is to take a punch and knock out a roll pin.

If you want a wider gate and less click, you may be able to narrow the tab on the bottom of the shift block and take a coil or two off the check ball. Or just remove it completely. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay, I found a picture of that check ball unit and the underlying plate. Thanks very much for pointing me that direction, now I understand much better what I'm dealing with.

I may try out a stock Ford shift post and fab up my own handle. I think a little additional throw might help me tell the difference between 3 and 5.

I will have to think about the distance up to 3 and 5. I sit pretty straight up at the track and my arms are long. I don't think it would be a problem, but it's good to know I need to plan it out first.
 

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A different shifter with stronger centering springs may help you find 3rd more easily. I always found that as a downfall of a stock shifter setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A different shifter with stronger centering springs may help you find 3rd more easily. I always found that as a downfall of a stock shifter setup.
Thank you! Do you have a brand in mind? Is that what MGW means when they say it's "preloaded" for 3rd?
 

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The MGW, like most aftermarket shifters have a spring that forces the shifter back to the 3/4 gate when the shifter is released from the 1/2 or 5/R gate. The MGW allows one to change the spring force. When this spring force is correctly set, it makes shifting 2 to 3 brainless. Just push straight forward. 3 to 4 just requires pulling straight back. When shifting 1 to 2, you must pull sideways to end up in 2nd.
 

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Is it just the new MGW shifters that allow you to change spring force?

I have one of the older models. Not sure mine will do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The MGW, like most aftermarket shifters have a spring that forces the shifter back to the 3/4 gate when the shifter is released from the 1/2 or 5/R gate. The MGW allows one to change the spring force. When this spring force is correctly set, it makes shifting 2 to 3 brainless. Just push straight forward. 3 to 4 just requires pulling straight back. When shifting 1 to 2, you must pull sideways to end up in 2nd.
Thanks very much. That's really helpful.
 

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With the MGW, I think that you have to remove the springs and install different ones. With other shifters I've used, you can stack concentric springs to adjust the force.

Using the stock shifter base is an absolute complete waste of time as the properly loaded gate springs are essential to making the car shift quickly and easily.
 
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