Not nearly as much as a good set of struts/shocks and springs. Generally you want to get your spring then damping rates set first, then use sway bar rates to fine tune your handling characteristics. Intended use will also come into play as well. FWIW you can probably do as well using some take-off swar bars from different year cars to fine tune once you get the other stuff done. Here is a good place to start on your handling modifications.
I have the stock swaybars on now. I would like to get rid of some understeer. I already have eiback springs and tokico shocks/struts. I have that website bookmarked and look at it often. I plan on autocrossing the car and some roadracing but the car is mostly street driven.
I do have c/c plates, they came on the car when I bought it a month ago. I have no idea what brand they are though. I was actually thinking about replacing the rear sway bar first with the steeda heavy duty one but I was thinking it would throw off the handling of the car if I do the rear one and not the front.
I have the stock swaybars on now. I would like to get rid of some understeer. I already have eiback springs and tokico shocks/struts. I plan on autocrossing the car and some roadracing but the car is mostly street driven.
FYI springs are generally rated in #/". What are your Eibachs? I suspect the fronts, e.g., are less than 800#/" which would be in the area of a dual purpose front spring. Rears need to be balanced to the front and that depends on rear suspension changes among other things.
As a bandaid for understeer, a bigger diameter rear bar (or a smaller front one) will help balance the car, as will stronger rear springs; so will running wider wheels and tires in the front for that matter.
Balance is a good thing.
But, there are many considerations, especially with Mustangs, that need to be addressed to actually achieve good handling. For example, rear suspension bind, roll centers (especially if lowered), camber and camber curve (see lowered), body roll, bump steer, Ackerman, and more.
Find a copy of Mathis' Mustang Performance Book 2 and read it a few times. It's a little out of date, but will help you understand a lot of what you will need to know in order to make informed decisions.
Edit to add: If the understeer is on corner entry, more camber (up to 3 1/2*), and some toe out (up to 1/4") will help. It won't help tire wear though, especially the toe out.
Of course, there's always driver error - entering corners too hot = understeer. But I'm sure you wouldn't do that.
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