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Discussion Starter #1
My car hasn't run in four years, and I'm trying to get it put back together.

The problem that I am facing is that my swaybar is contacting the oil pan drain plug. In an attempt to offset this, I lowered my coil spring perch all the way to the bottom and placed a jack under the control arm and raised it until the bump stop was just making contact (and the end links were completely disconnected). I rotated the sway bar until it was about 1/8" from making contact with the drain plug on the oil pan. This left me with about 3 1/4" between the sway bar and the control arm. I bought 6" long Grade 8 bolts and extra thick Grade 8 3/8" washers to use as a spacer tailored to the space available.

When I put all of this together, I am not convinced that the suspension is able to achieve full droop, and there is much more preload on the coilspring. In fact, I haven't fully gotten it into its normal place for the ride height I was using yet. It looks like the bending loads placed on the bolt will be severe.

Will the suspension actually compress all the way to bump stop? My instinct says that I am leaving myself short there, but I could be wrong, else why have bumpstops?

For the record, the car is equipped as follows: 1989 Mustang LX coupe with 408W set back 1", Canton 15-694 oil pan, MMKM-1, MMFCA-1, MMCO-2, MMFSB-1, and MMFSB-51 (with the sway bar mounted in the first set of holes to move it 0.75" forward). I can provide pictures if needed.

I would appreciate any advice y'all can offer.

(This is pretty much the text of a PM sent to Jack Hidley, but I figured I'd post it here as well in case anyone else is having the same problem.)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
No one has any input? I am aware that the arms of the swaybar should be approximately level when the suspension is loaded at ride height. With the swaybar contacting the oil pan though, I feel like my only options are to shorten the end links so it can't make contact at full compression or lower the mounting point until the center section can pass below the oil pan and not make contact. If I did that, it would need to be about 2 1/4" inches below the normal mounting position. That seems drastic to me.
 

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Can you move it more forward?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Can you move it more forward?
If I move it further forward, that puts it further out of alignment with the control arm, which will in turn increase the bending load on the bolt as the suspension compresses.
 

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I'm too lazy to go look up all the MM part numbers, but why did you need to move the sway bar mount forward? Pix would help.

I have an Aviaid road race wet sump pan, engine in stock location, Eibach sway bar in stock location, stock K member and lower control arms. The end links that came with the Eibach set-up work just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm too lazy to go look up all the MM part numbers, but why did you need to move the sway bar mount forward? Pix would help.
Basically, the MM K-member, control arms, sway bar, and coilover kit for a Foxbody. The sway bar is moved forward to maintain alignment with the control arms because they are moved .75" forward by the K-member.
 

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Basically, the MM K-member, control arms, sway bar, and coilover kit for a Foxbody. The sway bar is moved forward to maintain alignment with the control arms because they are moved .75" forward by the K-member.
With the arms and the sway bar moved 3/4" forward, and your engine moved back an inch, there should be mega clearance between the bar and the pan. Is it a Fox body pan? What sway bar?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
With the arms and the sway bar moved 3/4" forward, and your engine moved back an inch, there should be mega clearance between the bar and the pan. Is it a Fox body pan? What sway bar?
One would think, right?

The engine is a 408 (351W based). The oil pan is a Canton road race pan, but had the same problem with the FRPP swap pan for the Foxbody as well. The swaybar is a Maximum Motorsports part, but I had the same problem with the stock swaybar as well.
 

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Here are a couple pix of mine. Yes, this is at full droop, but it doesn't get anywhere close to contact.
I wish I had more to offer up to help you.
 

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We had the same issue with our Cantor roadrace pan. It's just a really big pan, but it keeps the motor happy. Four years of 24 and 36 hour races with no oiling issues. Stock crossmember moved 5/8" forward, motor in stock location, stock bar in stock location, and stock endlinks with mounts moved inboard on control arms an inch or two so they aren't angled in or out with the longer control arms, but they weren't shortened. We had a temp sensor in the front plug, and the bar took it out. We destroyed the car in the rain at Pacific Raceways today, but the pan is still good. Next to the fuel cell, that was the most expensive part on the car.
 
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