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On a casually driven and seriously underpreped autox car, will it really matter* much if I have MM standard length versus full length SFCs?

I got a suprise present that I'd like to gratefully accept :)

* For example, will I end up with a twisted chassis or be a lot slower due to the shorter connectors? I kinda doubt that SFC length is the rate limiting step for this car, but thought I'd ask.
 

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From how you describe the car, it sounds like "you" won't be able to tell the difference between the two. Logic says, do it right the first time...especially when a serious amount of welding is involved.

I've had to have sub.conn's cut off before.....it wasn't fun or cost effective. :(
 

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Somebody's gonna have to come up with some real numbers before I'll change my answer from "no, not a #######ed bit".
 

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I'm fabbing some subframe connectors and since I'm doing it from scratch, I just decided to make them 'full length' (mine are coming out to be 62" long). Do they provide more strength to the car? ..got me! The steel was all of $10 more to get the extra length so that's how they're going in! :rofl:
 

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Somebody's gonna have to come up with some real numbers before I'll change my answer from "no, not a #######ed bit".
I heard from a friend who said his left butt cheek moved 2 centimeters more in the seat when he had standard length on and when he upgraded to full length his butt cheeks were 75% stiffer.

There, some real numbers.
 

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I have the same issue. I've got kenny brown connectors in my garage, ready to go on, but wonder if I should just get full lengths instead. the kenny browns seem to be very heavy guage, some full lengths look thinner, but at least are the full width of the frame rails. this is not the kind of part I want to swap later. But any real advantage?
 

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I have the same issue. I've got kenny brown connectors in my garage, ready to go on, but wonder if I should just get full lengths instead. the kenny browns seem to be very heavy guage, some full lengths look thinner, but at least are the full width of the frame rails. this is not the kind of part I want to swap later. But any real advantage?
I have the Kenny Brown's on my '89 that a previous owner installed.

My other '89 has MM full lengths.

The difference is like night and day. The KB's are worthless, it's like having nothing on there. They're coming off. . .. when I find the time and motivation. :snore:
 

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I have the Kenny Brown's on my '89 that a previous owner installed.

My other '89 has MM full lengths.

The difference is like night and day. The KB's are worthless, it's like having nothing on there. They're coming off. . .. when I find the time and motivation. :snore:
perfect. 2 people that have used both. glad I jacked this thread. (sorry)
great info for thread poster too though
 

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Curious if it's possible or if anyone was brave enough to install the full length SFCs with removing the interior? Or do the require cutting into the floor?
 

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I went thru this on my recent GT, it was done by kenny brown and the previous owner used the SFC's as a jacking point. The narrow KB SFC's sitting in the center of the subframe bent the center of the subframe up. After cutting the KB's off and welding on the MM SFC's its a big difference.

Plus some of the KB installed stuff was done so poorly. I have not found one piece I have removed that doesn't look fubared. The KB PHB trunk mount had twice as many holes then needed. The KB rear control arm mounts, they missed drilled the holes like twice.

Its pretty sad a KB car is now MM car. The only part that is still KB is the roll bar (hopefully done by outsourced shop) and the license plate frame.
 
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