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I haven't done a conversion to compare on one car, but I have manual and auto cars and for turbo setups, I much prefer auto over manual. feels so good building all the boost and just freight training through the gears uninterrupted.
 

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I'm assembling my coyote turbo fox and it will have a liberty clutchless trans in it. I have a friend that builds a lot of supras and he's given me some input as to building boost out of the hole. Can't wait to try it out.
 

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Typically, you'll drop about 4 to 5 tenths off your ET going from a standard synchronized and clutched manual transmission to a trans-braked automatic.
 

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A half second? That seems like a lot.
Not really...my own car that had a stock block 306 with a 66mm turbo ran a best of 10.38 @ 140 with a TKO 600 tranny. I put a transbraked C4 in it and it ran a best of 9.92 @ 138. The car weighed 3380 with me in it.

My buddies car went 4 tenths slower when he decided to go back to a stick from his C4. It's fairly common unless you are running a pro-shifted built stick.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok now what trans I have a redneck c4 with a brake that was in my nitrous car. or a powerglide that a friend has. c4 i own glide i dont. both will need converters sent in and set up for the combo. mine is a 306 fcam performer heads cobra intake and a precision 7675.. with a stic 1-2 is useless even with slicks... it has 3.55 gears. when the stock block gives up i have a dart block 363 waiting for it.
 

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Not really...my own car that had a stock block 306 with a 66mm turbo ran a best of 10.38 @ 140 with a TKO 600 tranny. I put a transbraked C4 in it and it ran a best of 9.92 @ 138. The car weighed 3380 with me in it.

My buddies car went 4 tenths slower when he decided to go back to a stick from his C4. It's fairly common unless you are running a pro-shifted built stick.
I just got my 66mm Borg with 91AR a few weeks ago.I have a bone stock 5.0 that will have a Mighty Mite C4 behind it.What heads and cam do you have to run that 9.92.I would be happy to bust a high 10 myself.
 

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I just got my 66mm Borg with 91AR a few weeks ago.I have a bone stock 5.0 that will have a Mighty Mite C4 behind it.What heads and cam do you have to run that 9.92.I would be happy to bust a high 10 myself.
This was back in 2000, but my combo was straight forward:

stock block 306, unported Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM2 intake, custom Comp Cams turbo cam...small lift and duration, I had a BIG fuel system, 42 lb injectors with a blow through MAF...believe it or not, I had NO TUNE at all. I just ran 52 psi base fuel pressure and used a Crane HI-6 TRC ignition box to pull out timing under boost. The car was a freak for sure. It was a little hard to start cold, but other than that it drove like a stock Mustang until you mashed the gas pedal!! LOL!

With a totally stock motor, you will be pushing it to get into the 10s, but it's possible. A decent set of heads and intake would put you there easily, even with the stock cam.
 

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ok now what trans I have a redneck c4 with a brake that was in my nitrous car. or a powerglide that a friend has. c4 i own glide i dont. both will need converters sent in and set up for the combo. mine is a 306 fcam performer heads cobra intake and a precision 7675.. with a stic 1-2 is useless even with slicks... it has 3.55 gears. when the stock block gives up i have a dart block 363 waiting for it.
You probably fine running the C4 but once it dies I would go with something else, especially if eventually going to a 363. Some people get C4s to last with turbo cars but a lot of guys don't.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
mine is just a redneck built c4 with a brake. trans specaltys converter. will need to be redone for turbo setup.
 

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mine is just a redneck built c4 with a brake. trans specaltys converter. will need to be redone for turbo setup.
I would not throw any money at it. I would just run it as is, maybe update the converter if not too costly, and when it dies I would go to a TH400 or Glide. Now if the 363 is just a dream and may never happen I might have a different plan although even with a lesser motor not like the TH400 or Glide would be a bad option just probably a way overkill option. Just boil down to my budget and time frames because I maybe just go balls out with a transmission up front.

But that is just me, some people do manage to make a C4 last in a turbo car, but many others have them fail too quickly for my liking.
 

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A half second? That seems like a lot.
The big difference is being able to launch on boost compared to a typical manual trans where you can't. That's the hurtle I'm trying to overcome, building boost before I pop the clutch and launch.
 

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The big difference is being able to launch on boost compared to a typical manual trans where you can't. That's the hurtle I'm trying to overcome, building boost before I pop the clutch and launch.
I run a stick with a 7875. I use a 2 step and can build boost off the line with my MSD 6530.
 

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Is there a certain HP level where the PG is not a good move?
 

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This was back in 2000, but my combo was straight forward:

stock block 306, unported Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM2 intake, custom Comp Cams turbo cam...small lift and duration, I had a BIG fuel system, 42 lb injectors with a blow through MAF...believe it or not, I had NO TUNE at all. I just ran 52 psi base fuel pressure and used a Crane HI-6 TRC ignition box to pull out timing under boost. The car was a freak for sure. It was a little hard to start cold, but other than that it drove like a stock Mustang until you mashed the gas pedal!! LOL!

With a totally stock motor, you will be pushing it to get into the 10s, but it's possible. A decent set of heads and intake would put you there easily, even with the stock cam.
I may just buy a set of heads and a new intake.But it would be for a 351.The 5.0 is just too weak in the block department for my liking.
 

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Is there a certain HP level where the PG is not a good move?
Certainly personal opinion plays a tremendous roll. But when the PG was first introduced the cars were tanks and horribly anemic. Fast forward a few decades and they are used in some mighty fast cars.
Where's the tipping point? Honestly I'm not sure.
There's always going to be something better, there's always going to be something worse. Personal opinion and experience tend to weigh more heavily than a scripted answer to your question. Such as to say at X weight and Y horse power a PG isn't going to work would raise a red flag. Obviously you can take things to the extreme. But on a predominantly Mustang based forum I'm not convinced there is an end all be all answer to your question.
 

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Certainly personal opinion plays a tremendous roll. But when the PG was first introduced the cars were tanks and horribly anemic. Fast forward a few decades and they are used in some mighty fast cars.
Where's the tipping point? Honestly I'm not sure.
There's always going to be something better, there's always going to be something worse. Personal opinion and experience tend to weigh more heavily than a scripted answer to your question. Such as to say at X weight and Y horse power a PG isn't going to work would raise a red flag. Obviously you can take things to the extreme. But on a predominantly Mustang based forum I'm not convinced there is an end all be all answer to your question.
In a way we could then say, higher horsepower work good with the PG because less time being consumed w/ shifting than others? Would 500 hp with plans to go up go a good move for a bracket racer, or is this not an efficient move? Obviously AOD cars are good for street-able purposes, but I would guess a PG would still work, but with less mileage in mind. I am guessing a convertor is not a one size fits all scenario, but can a tranny be?
 

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Can't speak for you. It would be your opinion against mine.

Here's where I made my switch.
My car was making 450hp and I switched to a PG with an off the shelf PTC converter. Conventional internet wisdom would indicate to doom...

Car ran perfectly fine. I had no issues what so ever and was pleasantly pleased with the change from T-56 to TKO 600 to PG.
I went with a deep first gear because this car is a street car. a 1.8 might be a deep first gear for a PG, but when compared to a 3 or 4 speed, it's nothing of the sort. with start-and-go gridlock traffic and hills to contend with, the car responded beautifully. Again this was with a low hp car with an off the shelf converter. My car takes many long road trips racking up lots of miles.

the car has changed, but the PG still remains in the car. My PG has o/d and built to take an entire kitchen sink thrown at it without breaking a sweat. I've changed fluids, but that's about it. I suppose maybe next year I will pull it for a 10 clutch pack refresh? Might cost $200 for a total refresh...
with air conditioning, o/d and a simple but nice stereo, i'll take my PG across the country with zero hesitation.

if planned correctly from the start. A PG is a perfect square peg for our round holes. Of course that is my opinion and other will have their opinions.
 
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