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Discussion Starter #1
I've posted a couple other questions which I appreciate the help on, now I've got another. I've got 26x10 MT slicks now and I have 4.10 gears in my coupe. I'm getting ready to switch lower control arms in it and I have some SSM lift bars and I also have some UPR nonadjustable solid bushing lowers. I can use either one. I don't have subframe connectors or battle boxes yet but I will later. Should I put the SSM's on it now or wait until it's braced up better? BTW I have solid bushing adjustable uppers on it right now with stock bushings in the rear end. I plan on launching the hell out of it or at least trying, like 5K or so. It's just an explorer engine with a TFS stg 1 so it's not incredibly powerful. Opinions?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
LOL Ok, point well taken. The reason I was going to use them is, they were on my hatch when I got it and I'm switching the whole rear end into the coupe. The brackets are welded onto the rear end. I can take them off of course. Are they really that bad?
 

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Blame Canada!!!!!!
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They are more of a crutch for not doing it right. There are alot of good quality lowers out there that you can use. I use megabite jr's. they are the same principle as ssm's and they dont work for ####! Im switching to teamz this winter.
 

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I've seen guys make the SSM work but its just not worth the hassle when there are better suspension pieces to be had. Whatever you do get some upper and lower battle boxes and weld them in before you swap the pieces over. No it right the first time and not the second time. :)
 

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First off put some sub frame connectors on and some battle boxes on then buy some good quality control arms from wolferacecraft or team z . But you really need to make a plan as to what your ultimate goal is for the car then buy the parts for that plan .
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My plan is, it's a turd and I'm gonna try to embarrass some chevy friends with a car that I've got about 500 bucks in total. I do need to brace it up first but the track closes at the end of october and I don't have the time or money to do all that first. I will over the winter but I wanted to see what she'd do in present condition.
 

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I have a 91 notch that I run the SSM uppers and lowers on and as long as I keep them greesed they work fine they have went a best of a 1.61 sixty with 26x10.5 et streets stock engine with a 150 shot.
 

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i use ssm lift bars and upr double adj uppers and have went 1.43 60ft on mt et street bi ply 26-11.5 they work good, the only reason i have them is they came with a rear end i bought and i never got around to changing them. If you got them use them.
 

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i cant complain about my mega bite jr. lowers. i have a bald pair of et streets and they are hooking good
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I guess I'm gonna use them this one time at least, we'll see how they do. They've been in my hatch for a long time and it's starting to make mysterious noises and accel and decel from them so they might have already messed up it's torque boxes....
 

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In my old 90GT I ran the ssm bars with a stock upper control are and 4.10...had a best 60' of 1.54. Yes there are better control arms out there now but you can get the ssm bars to work for you.
 

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I have also been 1.54 on ssm bars. I agree there are better options but if you have them use them.Do not launch at 5000 with ssm bars, and sticky tires without frame connectors and torque box reinforcement. You will more than likely twist the chassis and rip the rear end out of the car.
 

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Best thing to do from the start is to build the foundation. Subframe connectors, upper/lower battle boxes and weld "everything" that you can reach/get to on the rear torque box area, lower/upper control arm area. If you have a bar in the car run a kicker from the main hoop down to the upper/lower battle box plate if you can. I've done all the above and haven't had any issues yet.

On the SSM bars, I still run them... But....they're the same length as a stock control arm and I run them in the stock mounting location. With a double adjustable upper arm and solid bushings with a -2 degree pinion angle I've managed a best of 1.33 60ft with Mickey ET Streets and usually have mid 1.30 60 ft's with Mickey DR's. Try to make the best outta what parts you have instead of buying the latest/greatest parts....;)....Just me.

Tater
 

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I've got Mega Bite Jr's with UPR double adjustable uppers on my 96 cobra (solid bushing, subframe connectors) and have wheelhop that I can't get out. Do the Jr's not work well with 96 cobras?
 

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You guys are SERIOUSLY misinformed..........nothing wrong with southsides/lakewoods!!! Ive been a 1.26 on these!! Only reason I switched is the poly bushings were wearing out quickly from the hard launches....
Just remember, ANY control arm, bar etc, is ONLY as good as the person installing/setting them up...

But I would NOT run them without bracing up the boxes first.

These bars/design and what they accomplish were great for there time, and the idea is still being used today by LEADING manufactures.

For ANY mustang running 10's and slower, there is NO cheaper setup that works better than a SSM/lakewood setup!!!
 

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You guys are SERIOUSLY misinformed..........nothing wrong with southsides/lakewoods!!! Ive been a 1.26 on these!! Only reason I switched is the poly bushings were wearing out quickly from the hard launches....
Just remember, ANY control arm, bar etc, is ONLY as good as the person installing/setting them up...

But I would NOT run them without bracing up the boxes first.

These bars/design and what they accomplish were great for there time, and the idea is still being used today by LEADING manufactures.

For ANY mustang running 10's and slower, there is NO cheaper setup that works better than a SSM/lakewood setup!!!
True but I've seen plenty of lower torque boxes destroyed by SSM lift bars and that was on 11-12 second cars, and in reality they aren't any cheaper than a standard lower, the problem is they have too high a percentage of antisquat.
 
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