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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well after being dissappointed at the drag strip i dont know what my next mod should be. I was thinking about picking up a Nitrous kit to spray between 100-150shot. But maybe some better tires would help me out more. Steeda drag springs, lakewood 90/10's, Frpp UCA, Tubular LCA, new diff bushings, 4.10's, shift kit, CAI, SVO cobra intake, 65mm throttle body, No egr, smog, or ac, Long tube headers, o/r xpipe, 1 chamber flows dumped. and my weld big and littles right now im running a 275/60/15 True radial tire.

r/t: .195 .123
60: 2.080 2.121
330: 6.131 6.167
1/8: 9.491 9.512
MPH: 73.07 74.01
1000:12.375 12.408
1/4:14.814 14.835
MPH: 93.92 94.04

So do i do spray or some M/T 275/50/15 et streets?
 

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Get some drag radials. If you spray you're just going to blow the tires off the launch harder, and at 2.0-2.1 60', you definitely have some room to improve.

Tires first, and save for some spray later.
 

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Tires first. If you put a 150 shot on it before tires you will run 14.8 @ 108 :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the heads up guys, i was thinking the same thing
 

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To be honest a 2.0 60ft with running a 14.8 trapping 93-94mph doesn't sound like you're spinning at all. If anything a set of slicks or drag radials may actually slow the car down because it will bog. Get a torque converter and than a set of 275/50 Nitto's. The 275 MT radials weigh in at 31 lbs. a tire...at your power level the Nittos would work just fine.

Does the car have the front sway bar connected? Underdrive pullies? Timing bumped?
 

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Slicks....
+10000

If your going to go with a dedicated track wheel/tire setup for the rear, forget drag radials, and go with some real slicks. Work on getting your 60' down to around 1.5's and your 1/4 mile ET will improve by 8/10's to a full second.
 

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+10000

If your going to go with a dedicated track wheel/tire setup for the rear, forget drag radials, and go with some real slicks. Work on getting your 60' down to around 1.5's and your 1/4 mile ET will improve by 8/10's to a full second.
That car does not make the power for slicks. A simple drag radial will do wonders without having to change tires at the track.
 

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That car does not make the power for slicks. A simple drag radial will do wonders without having to change tires at the track.
Your right. There's a certain HP level needed to run slicks. :angel:

A properly hooked slick, will improve any cars ET, regardless of power level. Changing to a real tire at the track > Trying to get a heavy drag radial on a wide heavy street wheel hook consistently........;) Been there, done that, along with hundreds/thousands of others.
 

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Your right. There's a certain HP level needed to run slicks. :angel:

A properly hooked slick, will improve any cars ET, regardless of power level. Changing to a real tire at the track > Trying to get a heavy drag radial on a wide heavy street wheel hook consistently........;) Been there, done that, along with hundreds/thousands of others.
The car will not leave the line hard at all with a stock torque converter and probably making less than 200whp. A set of slicks on that car will still only net a 2.0 60ft time. The car will be faster on a set of drag radials until the time comes where its making more power. Even if he gets the bottle and a torque converter it will still dead hook on some MT radials.
 

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The car will not leave the line hard at all with a stock torque converter and probably making less than 200whp. A set of slicks on that car will still only net a 2.0 60ft time. The car will be faster on a set of drag radials until the time comes where its making more power. Even if he gets the bottle and a torque converter it will still dead hook on some MT radials.
Overlooked the auto, and factory stall. The M/T DR would be probably be sufficient then, but adding N20 to the launch on a 4.10 gear, might change things a little.
 

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A properly hooked slick, will improve any cars ET, regardless of power level. Changing to a real tire at the track > Trying to get a heavy drag radial on a wide heavy street wheel hook consistently........;) Been there, done that, along with hundreds/thousands of others.

Drag radials work fine. Better than slicks in many situations. Just look at Kolivas cleaning up at a recent 10.5 race, and he was on 275/60 radials. Believe he was running the 60' in the 1.2's If the track absolutely sucks, then you might get a hundreth or two with slicks over radials. But that one positive just doesn't outweigh the negatives (Having to swap tires at the track or trailer the car, the sway on the top end, having to have another set of wheels, ect)
 

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Drag radials work fine. Better than slicks in many situations. Just look at Kolivas cleaning up at a recent 10.5 race, and he was on 275/60 radials. Believe he was running the 60' in the 1.2's If the track absolutely sucks, then you might get a hundreth or two with slicks over radials. But that one positive just doesn't outweigh the negatives (Having to swap tires at the track or trailer the car, the sway on the top end, having to have another set of wheels, ect)
Those cars are built and setup for that though. Mostly turbos and auto trannies. Lot easier on the initial shock to the tire.
 

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Those cars are built and setup for that though. Mostly turbos and auto trannies. Lot easier on the initial shock to the tire.
I agree that they are set up specifically for radials. But radials work very well. And they can handle initial shock. If they couldnt, you wouldnt see 3300lbs cars running 1.2's in the 60' on the 275's. Personally, I leave on the transbrake with a very basic suspension, and still turn consistent low 1.4's. Last time I had it out, I turned it up a little, and went a 1.39, but I broke the trans. And thats on 275/60's.

But I'm getting off topic! To 95 droptop, Tires might help, but if your hooking now, I doubt they will. However, when you add power, it's likely you will start to have traction problems.
 
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