Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Always thinking

Always fuqqin thinking... Alright let's start the camp fire for the flaming I might take.

Moving onto center of gravity and roll center as well as weight distribution. We all put our battery's in the trunk on the passenger side to not only shift some weight from the front to the rear, we also use the passenger side to help offset the drivers weight.

I just thought about maybe moving the battery in the spare tire well to lower the height of the battery off the ground. I'd keep it as far right as possible inside the well but those 3 inches or whatever in reduction of height could help the car turn better. I've even seen people cut the body and drop the battery even lower (highly doubt I'll do that just yet)

My question is would reducing the height of the battery improve the cars turning performance?

I'm looking at this in a 3 dimensional way

1. Battery in rear
2. Battery on passenger side
3. Battery as low as possible

(Front back, left right, up down)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
do the math lol.
Id like mine behind the pass seat
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,614 Posts
At this level, it's 6 of one, a half dozen of the other. There are some crazy small badass batteries out there now, I think I saw 2.5 lbs with plenty of CCA. Put one of those anywhere you want it, that's a huge improvement over the stock biggun up front left. However, do you drive the car on the street at all? If so, where will you keep your actual spare tire? That's why most everyone puts it in the rear right of the trunk, imo.

xxlxvert, I have my small dry cell battery behind my passenger seat in the rear seat buttwell. I briefly toyed around with lowering it into the rear passenger floorboard but I decided not to bother as my big ass battery cables (welding cable for positive) are hard to move. Maybe if I get bored this winter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I'm going with an optima I'm not concerned with battery weight just yet.

Putting the battery behind the passenger seat would be at the lowest point... That is probably like at least 7 inches lower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
564 Posts
Also to consider, polar moment of inertia.

Floorboard of the passenger compartment, rearward, and opposite side of driver is usually a good compromise place. Safety is a factor too if racing. A battery inside the cage structure is much safer than shoved in the RR corner of the trunk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,284 Posts
If you auto-x with SCCA (or another club that uses their rules), make sure you look at the rules. The last time I looked I don't think they gave any dispensation for dry-cell batteries, all batteries are treated the same. As I recall, the battery can't be in the passenger compartment.

Also keep in mind that for handling purposes we should be concerned about cross weights. Putting the battery in the passenger rear corner doesn't offset the driver's weight, it adds to it in the LF/RR diagonal. At least, I think that's how it works.

With that said, mine is in the RR corner, because that's where it fits in my convertible's trunk. And that chassis is already compromised so much that getting a bit of weight in the wrong place doesn't really matter! :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Im thinking about lowering the center of gravity as much as possible ie the following:

Lowering engine as much as i can (changing mounts, removing 1inch intake spacer)
Lowering drivers seat,which will lower me
Gutting around sunroof to reduce overhead weight
Fiberglass hatch and lexan glass to remove more weight from up top...

Iam visualizing as i remove weight the car will feel smaller and lower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,614 Posts
The hood and heads are definitely worth it. So would be tubular FCAs and k-member if class legal. My car weighed 2898 today (with one street wheel and tire on it due to a blow race tire) without any of the above. Would be low 2800s if I didn't have the harness bar, PHB, and trailer hitch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
309 Posts
You remind me of myself with the always thinking thing. Always going over ideas and designs in my head. Always finding ways to complicate myself. One car project after the other and usually not needed. Just board and want to change something on the car lol. I went through all this same thinking. I had a heavy Optima red top in the original location for years and started thinking about where to move it, behind the pass seat or in the trunk. Both requiring lots of new cables and connectors. Then I start doing numbers to figure out which is cheaper/better to do and this is where more damn ideas come into play. Long story short I decided to instead buy a new Odyssey PC680MJT and put it in the original location. Only weighs 16 pounds. Plenty of juice for start ups and comes with standard terminals so no modifications needed. IMO it was cheaper to do it this way and much less work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
^ha, thats exactly the route I took too. Odyssey even makes a nice little formed aluminum mount for it that screws right in place of the stocker. 10mins and done. Literally.

I chose to do the relocation (into the hatch) on my first mustang back in highschool. The part I never factored was the weight of the box and cables that now had to run the length of the car. Install still was not bad, but the combined weight of everything i was "adding" did bother me. If I was to relocate one today it would be to the pass. rear foot well. There it is as low as possible and directly countering my weight. As for my current project, I want to keep a relatively stock/complete interior so a batt in the floorboard is not something I'm interested in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
if you check out my blog, you would know the battery is already in the trunk, so im not worried about time/work it takes, if anything moving it behind the pass seat would eliminate more cable then i already have.

i just like improving the car, and working on my craft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
comp polymer intake

aluminum heads

fiberglass hood

boom 70-80lbs off one of the worst places it could be in.

...for only $2,000.

id love to run a plastic intake,

keeping stock heads because free and stock motor, and i like the reliability

im running a custom heat extractor hood that i made utilizing the stock hood, i have removed some sheet metal from it, and i plan on completly gutting the factory hood removing as much metal as possible (should be as light or even lighter than a fiberglass hood) free

fiberglass hatch setup should drop atleast 60+ pounds

one day ill do a tubular front end setup and junk the factory bumper crash beams
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
309 Posts
I'm confused. That intake is designed for modified and higher rpm engines correct? Why would it have the runners designed after the stock 50 which is flow restricted? Why not model it after say the gt40 or holley? I'd run that intake myself but I use the systemax intake so it wouldn't match the runner ports of the lower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
I'm confused. That intake is designed for modified and higher rpm engines correct? Why would it have the runners designed after the stock 50 which is flow restricted? Why not model it after say the gt40 or holley? I'd run that intake myself but I use the systemax intake so it wouldn't match the runner ports of the lower.
It has actually been discontinued... vendors are just selling off what is left.

When it was in production, they did also make the model "VH052" which was the same thing but for a GT40 lower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
No need to mess around moving batteries. If weight balance is that important then get a lightweight race battery.

Use coilovers and adjust heights to corner balance and move weight around.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top