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Discussion Starter #1
So I have always been a car guy and a tech - but only recency started to race at the track. Its a 1/8 mile and I was looking for advice because im not really happy with my times.
The car is an 89 5speed car- the combo is stock bottom end, but has TFS 170 heads, TFS street intake, 24lbs.inj, Pro-M MAF, under drive pulleys, E-cooling fans, and a 100shot of nitrous. Timing is at 14*. Plugs are gaped at .45 and it has a brand new coil that seems to be working great - ignition is not breaking up at all.
Suspension is basic H&R race springs and tokico Illumini shocks and full length sub frame connectors.
Tire is a 275/40/17 Nitto Nt05R that I ran at 15PSI.
The best time I have managed thus far is a 8.690 at 85.4 MPH. I know my sixty foot needs work at 2.10, but still feel car should be faster through the traps.
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated,
Thanks guys!
 

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Your time is about right for those tires and a stick. You are wasting your time without good tires. Put it on an 8" slick or a good drag radial and you will probably go 7.60s in the 1/8th mile.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Your time is about right for those tires and a stick. You are wasting your time without good tires. Put it on an 8" slick or a good drag radial and you will probably go 7.60s in the 1/8th mile.
I am running a NT05R - It is a drag radial , and from the research I did its supposed to be pretty good - is that not the case?
 

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I am running a NT05R - It is a drag radial , and from the research I did its supposed to be pretty good - is that not the case?
Don't know much about how good those radials are but your 60 foot time should be much better. On a slick your car should 60 foot at around 1.6. You would think on a drag radial that you would go at least 1.8.

In any event, once you lose enough traction your mph will start to suffer too.
 

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I have a daily notchback that has a typical 96 explorer engine, cobra rockers, tfs camshaft, explorer intake, 24lbs, 3:73 and a stock t5. it 60' a 1.56 and run a best of 8.15 at 82mph. What gear is in the car, and how hard are you launching it. And was the 8.50 time on spray, if so those times are way the heck off. Ive had sim combos on motor go 7.7-7.80 with a stock clutch and same tire you are running. Are you setting the timing with the spout connector out or in? What camshaft is in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have a daily notchback that has a typical 96 explorer engine, cobra rockers, tfs camshaft, explorer intake, 24lbs, 3:73 and a stock t5. it 60' a 1.56 and run a best of 8.15 at 82mph. What gear is in the car, and how hard are you launching it. And was the 8.50 time on spray, if so those times are way the heck off. Ive had sim combos on motor go 7.7-7.80 with a stock clutch and same tire you are running. Are you setting the timing with the spout connector out or in? What camshaft is in the car.

Your times are GREAT!!
So , the car has 3:08 gear rite now. I know it's not ideal- but I can't imagine it accounts for the car being almost a full second slower than it should be....rite?? Other thing I am thinking needs to be changed is the cam- it still has the stock one at the moment. As far as the timing - I set it at 14 with the spout out, lock in the distributor and put the spout back in. I know 14 seems like a lot on spray , but I swear the car does not ping at all. Thoughts on that?
Unfortunately , yes my times were on the spray ... I was disappointed that I wasn't atleast in the low 8s. I am launching at about 2700 rpm and slipping the clutch - I was scared to dump the clutch and roast the tires.
What do you typically launch at ???
Thanks !!!
 

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I launch around 3k-3400 dump throttle as I come off clutch. I run a 235 mt radial on a 15" wheel. The 3.08 is hurting you but not a full sec. id say if I was you id dial the car in on motor and get it down to numbers it is running on the jug, then once you get your launches/shifts consistant try the bottle again.

My setup is a stock shortblock with tfs2000 camshaft, gt40(non p) heads, cobra rockers, explorer intake,24lbs, 65mm tb, 70mm mass air, long tubes, pro chamber midpipe, spin tech mufflers dumper. elect fan.
Stock t5 with exedy clutch
stock 8.8 with 3:73 gear
race stars 17" front and 15x10 rear with mt radials
Full weight daily driver that gets around 22mpg driving everyday then go to track let tires down to 15lbs and have fun.
 

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im another vote to change the gears , they are killing you .
also as much as you say its not pinging .... drop timing back to 11 or so , make a run . add 1 degree , make a run etc etc . watch the mph , when it stays the same or drops , go back to the previous timing and leave it alone .
i also keep a spare plug in the car , shut it off after the traps , and when on return road pull number 5 plug , put spare in and go to pits .... read the plug carefully for heat range , fuel ring and detonation .... tune from there
sounds like there is a bunch left in the combo
 

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Discussion Starter #10
im another vote to change the gears , they are killing you .
also as much as you say its not pinging .... drop timing back to 11 or so , make a run . add 1 degree , make a run etc etc . watch the mph , when it stays the same or drops , go back to the previous timing and leave it alone .
i also keep a spare plug in the car , shut it off after the traps , and when on return road pull number 5 plug , put spare in and go to pits .... read the plug carefully for heat range , fuel ring and detonation .... tune from there
sounds like there is a bunch left in the combo
Thanks for the tips! I'm going to work on the timing and a few other things... I took out a plug and wanted some opinions or tips on "reading" them - to me it looks like it could be slightly lean , but not by much. How do I read "fuel ring, heat range, and detonation" . Also, I have them gapped at .050- is that to much?? Benefits in going more/less gap???

Thanks again!
 

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Gears, tires and cam. I ran Nitto 1st, then MT radials, and finally MT bias ply. My car weighs 3360 at the line with me and cut a 1.58 last time out. Went 7.53 @92. Your mph suggest low 8's, but I think a gear would really help you out. And I agree on the timing thing, I would back it down a little and work back up.

Joe
 

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I'm voting gears and tires, I had a bone stock 93 hatch 5spd car only mods were 3.73 gear and flowmasters. With a 100 shot and some hoosier qtp's went 8.21
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the info everyone! Looks like gears are the next items to be addressed. And im guessing 3.73 is the best "all around" gear??? Or 3.55 with the 5 speed???

Also- I have a slight update: I changed out the fuel pump - It still had the original ! So I upgraded to a Aeromotive 340 LPH stealth pump. I dont know if its in my head - but the car seems to pull harder on the bottle now- could the original fuel pump have been causing the poor performance? Has that ever happened to anyone else?? I remember reading somewhere that if the fuel pressure wasn't sufficient - the solenoids would not work properly - kind of like a fail safe - is that true??
 

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Get the car some gears asap! Get it to run on motor like it should, Then add the Bottle.
 

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Get some good tires and a gear. Nitto's suck if you are making any power much beyond stock. you are lucky to get Nitto 5R's into 8's. With almost your combo a few years ago, except I had a 4.10 gear and 16" rims (the taller the rim the less the drag race traction) and a blower, I got about the same 60's and times as you on Nitto's. M&H Racemaster DOT radials dropped it a full second.
 

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Records don't lie. If you really want to make it hook, look into the Mt 275 pro's. Or the et streets. Don't let the width of the 275's fool you. They hook. The ONLY drawback is that they are only good for about 2000 miles. Minus burnouts.
 

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\How do I read "fuel ring, heat range, and detonation"
Fuel ring - cut the threaded portion off with a hacksaw and look at the base of the ceramic where it meets the metal (now removed). You want a grey ring all around about .100" wide N/A. Wider for FI or nitrous.

Heat range - look at the first few threads nearest to the electrode. You want 1-2 threads to have "color' to them - they should show signs of heat. Less = too cold.

Detonation - get a magnifying glass or an otoscope and look at the porcelain near the tip. If it has black or diamond-like spots, that's detination. Black spots aren't as bad as diamond like spots. Check the plugs for small spots before you put them in too; some are made that way and can freak you out when you pull them.

Look at the ground strap for timing - there should be a miark right at the 90* bend. This is actually an annealing line. Closer to the tip means it needs more timing, close to the body means less timing.
 
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