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Discussion Starter #1
Help me out guys. This weekend my car started pulling to the left under hard braking. Never had this before, the car has been professionally aligned and bumpsteered at a reputable alignment shop. So the car did that for several laps, then I heard a loud pop mid corner while in a slow right hander. After that the front end would intermittently make a popping sound at turn in. I got under the car, shook control arms and tie rods with all my might and nothing seemed loose. I couldn't find any evidence of something being broken or cracks in any of the hardware. On the drive home I noticed the car pulls to the left now and the steering wheel is turned to the right while going straight. What are the possible culprits here?
 

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First be careful driving that thing and don't until you figure this out. That would be a crappy way to go out.

What kind of control arms are you running?

Could the inner tie rods be failing?
 

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balljoints? ...maybe something inside the rack broke...like, is it possible that a tooth on the rack actually broke?
 

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The popping-while-steering makes me think its the ball joint.
 

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Do you have a list of mods to kind of throw some things at you? I see it says MM and GRIGGS equipped, but this is corral.......you could have Griggs rear springs and some MM rack bushings. ;)

Maybe one of the strut ears broke/bent?(coilover/non coilover :confusded: ) If you still have rear upper control arms, a bushing could have split/broke/blew up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not the struts. These are the new MM struts with the heavy duty mounting tabs. I have MM control arms, AGR rack, MM bumpsteer kit, MM k-member. I talked to MM today, they think it's one of the tie rods due to the fact that the steering is off now.
 

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Lift one side of the car and check side to side play on the rim that's in the air. Leaving the other side on the ground helps lock the steering. There will be a little bit of slop but a bad tie rod can be noticeably loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Looks like I found the problem. The popping from the passenger side was coming from loose strut mounting bolts at the spindle. Somehow the camber got knocked out of spec on the driver side. Visually it's nowhere near as negative as the left side anymore. I'm assuming this is why my steering wheel is off. Time for me to get some home alignment tools because at $180 a pop for a good alignment the tools will pay for themselves quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Torquing the spindle nuts fixed the popping sound. But, upon further inspection it appears that the camber problem is a little more serious than just adjusting at the CC plate. I rigged a camber gauge today with my smart level and some 2x4s. I checked the passenger side, it was 4.3 degrees, originally 2.9. I then checked the driver side after moving the strut all the way in, 2.2 degrees. There is visual evidence that the k member shifted to the driver side. I'll take some measurements, but I'm pretty convinced the k member is not centered anymore.
 

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I guess it's time to break out the plumb bobs and the tape measures. :(

I think I've read of someone (screenname of racercosmo maybe?) suggesting using some self-tapping screws or some such to mark the location of the k-member after it's in the right spot and bolted down as a "just in case it shifts location" measure.
 

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Sounds like you are on the right track but Id have to question your use of 2x4's as a gauge. Not sure how you are using the 2x4's with the gauge that you have but lumber doesn't generally have the truest surface for precision measuring.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sounds like you are on the right track but Id have to question your use of 2x4's as a gauge. Not sure how you are using the 2x4's with the gauge that you have but lumber doesn't generally have the truest surface for precision measuring.
Not looking for precision. Just looking for a quick confirmation of something that doesn't look right. A 2x4 placed vertically on the lip of the wheel with another 2x4 nailed perpendicular to it with a smart level on top of the horizontal 2x4 will definitely get you in the ball park. It will at least tell you if there is a difference in the two measurements. I plan to build one out of aluminum or steel once I get the k member straight.
 

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I guess it's time to break out the plumb bobs and the tape measures. :(

I think I've read of someone (screenname of racercosmo maybe?) suggesting using some self-tapping screws or some such to mark the location of the k-member after it's in the right spot and bolted down as a "just in case it shifts location" measure.
I marked mine with paint stripes for both the side to side and front to back planes. I figure the paint marks from the factory lasted 18 years and are still in place on the few components that are still stock, mine should last for awhile too. Just in case, I made two sets on each side of the car for each plane.
 
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