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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I bought a 88 GT roller to swap the drivetrain out of my wrecked 03 Cobra in. While ofcourse if you drive a Terminator you like a car with alot of power and torque I also like a car that handles well. This will mainly be a street car, but not a DD, but a weekend toy. I would also like to try some Autox, and maybe eventually RR. I do know I've always hated the stock 4 link setup, and its unpredictable snap oversteer nature.

I plan on starting with the frontend, and for me there are 2 choices. Griggs, or MM. My problem with the MM front suspension is that to run a 03/04 Cobra motor with there Modular Foxbody kmember you have to run one of their oil filter relocation kit which sell for $400. Thats a lot of $ for what it is, and would about offset the cost of just going with Griggs parts instead if you can leave the oil filter in its factory location. Does anyone know if I would need to relocate the oil filter with the Griggs kmember? Also does Griggs make control arms for Foxbodies to place the wheels in the factory location like MM does? Right now the car has 255's on the front and they are rubbing the front bumper cover in the wheelwells like crazy. The car fact a D&D kmember and control arms on it, and to me it looks like the wheels are moved forward from the factory location with that setup, but IDK. I assume I can run the MM C/O's I had on my Cobra on this car if I go with a Griggs front suspension?

For the rear suspension I'm leaning towards a Steeda 5 Link 2. While handling is important to me I am going to have to think about a setup that will do a fair job of hooking up a torque 550ish whp Foxbody. I have read that the 5 link does a better job of planting power than a torque arm setup on Mustangs. Is this true? How will a 5 Link work with a Griggs, or MM front suspension? If I do the Steeda 5 Link I will run MM C/O's, and Extreme Duty lower control arms. If I plan on running turn downs would a original 5 Link be better than a 5 Link 2? What is y'alls opinion on the rear suspension for my project? Would a 3 link setup work better? I'm going to stick with a SRA instead of swapping my IRS in it.

What rear differential would work good? After reading threw threads on here I'm leaning towards just using a Eaton Posi.

Other parts I plan on using are Griggs World Challenge SFC kit, and maybe some GW jack rails. The car already has a 8 point roll cage in it.

I'm also wanting to use some Toyo R888's on all corners. My car is not minitubed, but the rear fenders have been modded, and its wearing some 17x10.5's with 315 Nitto 555R's that seem to clear just fine. I've heard that the Toyo R888's run wide, but do you think that some 295 R888's would run wider than some 315 555R's?

Any good advice would be appretiated, and sorry for the long read.

Thanks,

Jesse
 

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I can answer the brake question. The brake calipers/brackets are designed to bolt up to the NRC brackets. You'll have to flare the line on the SRA, but that's it.

FWIW, the IRS will also bolt up in the back of the foxbody. Drill a few holes, buy a few bolts, and it'll pop right in. Just a thought. ;)
 

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There are tons of threads about 5 link vs 3 link vs TA vs etc..

Why not just use the IRS out of the cobra?

As far as the griggs stuff goes can you even get it at the moment?

Griggs doesn't have the A arms like MM does.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
There are tons of threads about 5 link vs 3 link vs TA vs etc..

Why not just use the IRS out of the cobra?

As far as the griggs stuff goes can you even get it at the moment?

Griggs doesn't have the A arms like MM does.
As much love as I had for the IRS a SRA really is just better at handling the huge torque that the Terminator motor will produce. I modded my IRS with MM C/O's, complete Full Tilt Boogie bushings, MM tie rod ends, all the MM subframe bolts, Billetflow brace, maybe more I'm not thinking of. I road on that suspension for three years, and it worked very well, and I liked it way better than a stock 4 link setup for sure.

Also the IRS is wider that the SRA in a Foxbody, and requires wheels with crazy/ugly offsets to work, and I'm wanting this car to be quite a bit lighter than the Cobra.

Lastly it might or might not be the thing that has me in this predicament to begin with. I was trying out DR for my first time when I shifted hard to 4th, and something caused my rearend to break free which sent me crossing lanes and hitting the concrete barrier head on at over 100 MPH. It feel like my tires just lit up for a breif second, but IDK thats kind of suspicious see as I was only making 477 whp. Reguardless it wasn't a fun experience. My rearend came around and smacked the wall after my frontend hit, and broke the left knckle, halfshaft, tie rod end, and the housing is locked up. IDK if the housing locked up and that sent me out of control or if when the side of the car smacked the barrier and broke the halfshaft that it might have pushed the broken end into the housing.

I got to figure out how to mount a front swaybar to a Modular Foxbody.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)


That is our 86 LX Coupe Shop car with the MM modular swap K member and sway bar all bolted up.
Really?

Thats great!

Right know I'm on another thread talking with some Modular Fox guys about the best way to mount a swaybar on a Modular Foxbody, and they are saying that MM tells them that the best way to do it is to cut off the stock Foxbody swaybar mounts, and mount them lower on the frame rails, and use a Foxbody swaybar.
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php/163907-Will-this-Anti-Roll-Bar-fit-a-ModFox

So MM makes a swaybar specifically to mount a Modular in a Foxbody? You didn't have to cut off, and mount the swaybar mounts any lower on your chassis did you?
 

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To my knowledge MM does not make a special sway bar for mod motor swaps. ON the fox 500 projects one of the magazines did they mounted the gt500 motor in and it does not look like they changed sway bar mounting points.


It might make a difference on ours that we are running forward offset A arms. Thats what the zinc coated blocks are where the sway bar mounts it pushes the sway bar forward.

That is a stock 5.0 sway bar.
 

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I'll try and get back to this thread and give some additional details but here are a few answers regarding the Griggs product line.

No oil filter relocation required
Griggs K-member will relocate the front wheels forward

If your struts are the Fox length your good to go, but if they are the SN-95 part number it would be best to use a set of Fox struts. You loose bump travel due to the longer length of the SN-95 strut when you start lowering the car, this is why MOST sell the Fox part even for Sn-95's.

It's not recommended you mix and match your suspension parts. For the most part roll centers of the different designs have different affects on the handling of the car as a whole.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Pat thanks for the info. That suck about the struts, and full front C/O's with good struts aren't cheap and building a Termifox will nickle and dime you enough as it is.

I assume you don't want to run Foxbody struts on a SN95 unless its lowered, correct?
 

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I was just starting to think about doing this same swap myself. In the interest of actually being aboe to drive the car sometime in the near future ( that whole nickle and dime thing ) I think I'll stick with a pushrod motor for now.
The rest of the project is staring to deflate my bank account enough as it is !!
 
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