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Discussion Starter #1
I call redo on my own post, since it wasn't very clear what I was stating and asking.

Right now my front suspension consist of poly bushings, Eibach sway, H&R super race springs, koni single adjustables. The springs are a little too much for the struts and I would like to make an adjustment. The way I see it, I can either go with softer springs like the h&r race or I can get revalved struts. I'm only hesitant about dropping spring rates because I would be losing about 50 of wheel rate. I'm not sure how much more increased body roll I would see. The car stays really flat and transitions well in slaloms right now, I would hate to lose that.

Any input you guys could provide would be appreciated.
 

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What do you have your struts set at? I know at least with my setup that a little goes a long way with the Koni SA's. I can feel the difference with as little as a 1/4 turn. Granted my springs aren't as stiff as yours but I run 1/2 a turn on the street and 1 turn on the course. I would thing 1.5 to 2 turns should be fine for the H&R Super Races unless you need to revalve your struts anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
On the street the car really oscillates a lot over bumps. Too much really. Its not wildly out out control but it seems to me that the struts can't control the springs.

My settings are all over the place. I've tried to struts to full stiff on rebound and it still does not control the spring. On thr autox course I run full stiff front and rear. On the street I run anywhere from 1 turn from soft to 2 turns from soft, but I have gone up to full stiff in the front to control the spring..
 

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I know a guy with the H&R Super Races on a '96 Cobra vert that runs 1 turn on the street and 1.75 on the course and he seems fine. I know 1/2 a turn on my Konis is about the same stiffness as Cobra R valved Bilsteins, at least that's how it feels on my car. I'm wondering if you have your struts so stiff they are just acting as additional spring rate in the front, bounding and rebounding so little they aren't really doing their job. I know when my one buddy sets his Strange 10-ways too stiff they'll actually support the loading of the car instead of the springs. Either that or the valves are worn out.
 

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Do they control the springs during an autocross? I know you SRA guys get a ton of nose dive under breaking/transitions and that is why you need such stiff springs up front. If they work fine on the course then maybe a sweet spot can be found by making small incremental adjustments towards soft for the street.
 

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man, that's a toss up... I would wonder the same thing myself. If you are happy with the way the car performs with those springs over the Race Springs you had in there before, stick with em, and maybe have your stuff re-valved. I know that my tokicos are just about at their limits with the Race springs I have up front, and the 350# Steeda rears.

The other thing to look at is cost - which would be more cost-effective, as in where would you prefer to spend your money? Which would you be happier with in the long run?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thing only springs that I can compare these to are the bullitt springs. I've never had the regular race springs installed only the super race. Obviously the car rides stiffer but not much worse. Rough road was always terrible in this car.
 

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I'd check with Koni NA (Lee Grimes) and find out if the yellow, as valved for the SN95, can handle that much spring. If they say yes, its your imagination...if they say no, send 'em out and revalve. :)
 

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Just for clarity, I'm not complaining about the performance in autox, just the boucing during street use.
Can you find out the actual spring rate (or better yet, the wheel rate,) of yout springs? THAT is what you need to have to figure out if the springs are under-damped.
 

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Wheel rate is in the 235-265 range (progressive spring). I'd think the yellows would be fine, but it is easy enough to email Koni and find out...
 

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Wheel rate is in the 235-265 range (progressive spring). I'd think the yellows would be fine, but it is easy enough to email Koni and find out...
That wheel rate is well under the range for Koni Sports. The spring isn't under-damped. (In fact, it may be OVER damped.)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The spring rate is 950-1050 which is a 237-262 wheel rate according to MM. I don't know if it is all about wheel rate though as MM only recommends up to HR race (187-212 wheel) with SA's but says a 325 coilover is fine (297 wheel rate) any idea why?
 

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I've run 400# coilovers with the Koni SA's for a couple of years now. The MM rep recommended 350# front springs for my setup. That was based on my application, which is HPDE with little street use.
 

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Hmmm. Thats weird, because I'm running OTS Bilstein HD's with my Super Race springs and I have zero problems with the way they ride or perform. And that spring (from my understanding) is supposed to be more than the bilsteins can handle.

I know I just put Koni Yellows and Ground Controls (550f/375r) on my 1990 Miata, and they were doing the same thing on the first test drive, but I just turned the reboud up to 1/2 a turn from full stiff up front and a full turn from full stiff in the rear and it went away.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I guess maybe now that I have gotten used to the stiff ride and good handling, I'm looking for ride comfort that won't come with this kind of spring and rate. Maybe I will just suck it up and deal with it, I'm not so sure I want to be swapping springs or struts anyway, I'm still getting my Steeda 5 Link II setup properly.
 
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