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Discussion Starter #1
My issue is the only time I've lost a race is when I shake tires or spin. I need to fix that if I can.

I have a turbo car with a 1.68 glide. It makes good power. It is kind of a grudge street car. It is right at a 1.2 60 ft and goes in the 140 range in the 1/8th. It's 3200lbs and the last time I measured was just under 60% on the front and just over 40% on the rear. I can scale it again. I can pull weight off the rear, but not off the front.

I have coil overs front, Team Z with Strange SA struts.

I have stock springs rear, Wildrides S box rear, antiroll, solid heim, and SA Strange rear. I run either radials or slicks, nothing larger than 28 10.50.

Most of the tracks here are crappy to medium prep. There is one pretty tight track with radial prep.

Is it worth a double adj shock front and rear?

I launch at 10 psi. If I lean on low gear boost (it can spool to 15 psi in 1/4 second and 25 psi in 1/2 second) it pulls the front wheels and holds them a few inches up for maybe 200 ft. I can't run more than 15-20 psi before the shift or it shakes or spins the tires while up off the ground in front.

I have good separation. The rear never squats. But if I lean into it hard it will shake the crap out of the car or spin. I tighten the front and rear but it still gets back on the rear tires. It typically is limited to a 1.2 sixty. I don't want to spend a ton on this unless I get a useful return. Are DA Afco worth it given the mostly poor tracks but occasional good tight prep? How much can shocks do?
 

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I do not know if this will be useful to you or not. I run a smaller tire (26x8.5" on a double bead-lock 10" rim) and don't 60' as well as you (1.29) but I run AFCO double adjustable in the rear and just a Strange single adjustable up front. My front/rear bias is 54% front 46% rear. I also was getting the "tire shake" issue. I normally run about 13.75 psi in the rear. I tried lower pressures, but it just moved the shake point to a different location. With my car being a P/D S/C, I run a boost controller because the engine has max boost almost instantly. I leave at 2,500 rpm @ 11 psi and ramp it in starting with a .2 sec delay. I ended up adding air pressure because I was hitting the tire so hard that it was inducing shake. At about 15 psi the shake went away. Having some video of the launch helped tremendously. I have the front end of my car tied down, took 2" of travel out of the front suspension. I also have the front struts just 5 clicks from full tight (20 clicks from full loose to full tight) the car will carry the front tires maybe 1-2 inches off the ground, or the fronts are just skimming the ground. This works for me, but your combo may be significantly different that this may all be a moot point. Best advice I can give is video the launch and make 1 adjustment at a time. It can take quite a few hits to sort as the first adjustments can be in the wrong direction, you just don't know until you try.
 

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I feel like yellowbullet suspension section would be the place to ask this, if not just calling Team Z or some other suspension gurus directly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I run 11 psi in slicks and run 13 psi in pro bracket radials or SS street legal radials.

I let my air get low in the radials, down to 12, when it shook last time. The track was also cold and had just been sprayed.

I don't like to call people for help because I have a real good friend who owns a very large race parts business and get parts there. That's kind of picking their brains and not buying anything. Plus I like to reason through things.

Is the shake because the tire wads up, or is it because it slips and grabs? It sounds like your saying more pressure cures the shake, which must mean it wads up?

Yellow Bullet? They can be nasty. LOL

I appreciate the answers. I don't have a problem buying parts but I like to buy wisely. I was at six clicks on the front and six on the rear and 13 psi air on pro brackets on a good daytime pass. The next round it was dark and cold, the track cooled, my tires cooled, they sprayed the track and I was the first car down, and I sat in line so long my tires dropped to 12 psi. My front wheels were well up in the air and I was still spinning, then it shook really hard and I had to quit. That cost me the race for sure because I was way out and gaining. I have to stop that somehow.
 

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My rear set up has the Baseline Suspensions Outlaw kit. I know Kevin would be more than happy to answer whatever questions you may have.
 

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U are doing really good.. Think u got your set up dialed in. U can update your shocks for more adjustments not sure if u will go faster. Best 60 is 1.20 so updating my chassi tying it I with the cage.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think, because I'm building a faster safer car, I'm just going to buy Strange DA rear and some of the better Strange DA front struts. I'll put good parts in the fast car.

After talking to a couple X275 guys I'm confident my tires were a few pounds too low and I need to tighten the rear rebound and the front extension up. They think the rear separation needs slowed down a little, not too much or it will wheelie more, and the front needs to be a lot tighter.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
And hope that they are telling you good info....


Something I learned many years ago is that asking a potential competitor for advice can be disastrous. Not always, but worth keeping in mind. I
I'm probably OK. The guys are friends plus they run X275 cars and I just have a street car. They just don't know about Pro Bracket radials because they run the 275's. I mostly run marginal prep small local tracks around here.
 

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Friends or not... Most heads up racers still won't give you a lot of useful info. Never know who's listening near by at the track who's following every post you make on line.
 

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That is not exactly true. They can give u all the info about there car does not mean it will work with yours.

Most of the time every one is trying to figure out there own stuff. Little help here and there does not matter.
 

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I'm probably OK. The guys are friends plus they run X275 cars and I just have a street car. They just don't know about Pro Bracket radials because they run the 275's. I mostly run marginal prep small local tracks around here.
Your friends may run X, but are they competitive? Big difference. I don't say that to be a dick.. it's the reality of it. If they're not running 4.60 or better... they're in the way.

With a pro-bracket, if you're running 13#'s, you're like 4psi low to begin with..

If the car is shaking.. hit it harder.. or up the pressure... in general terms..

and the caveat.. buy the best shock/strut combo you can afford. Control is everything.
 
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