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This is probably going to be wordy but I want to make sure I cover everything since I am a driver, but my mechanic skills/knowledge do not extend much beyond oil changes and brake pads. I would take it to a dealership, but the place I bought it at lost it for 3 days one time ( and yes I am serious) and every other Ford dealer in Cincinnati has burnt either me or friends, so I want to walk in forearmed with some knowledge.

My car and love of my life (plate reads HRTBRKR) is a 96 GT convertible, Moonlight blue clearcoat metallic, White black interior scheme, white leather seats, black top (originally white but when it was cut through twice, I went to black). Options on vehicle are;

AC
Manual
Mustang group 2
Speed Control
Seat, Power Drivers
ABS
17 Tires
Mats
Remote Keyless Entry
Optional Ratio Axle
Defroster Rear
Mach 460 with CD player
17 inch Alum wheels
Leather Seatg Surfs Sport Bkts


Currently has 60280 miles, and problems back to day one were Fuel Sensor failed at 450 miles, Gasket blew (Dealer covered under 'special warranty' at 39k miles, so it cost me nada), replaced, 44k miles had to replace (cant find the paper work, but squeeking front steering rods that were 'sealed' and could not be lubed if that helps, were replaced). Oh yeah my rear end buzzes sometimes, but I read that is a loose muffler baffle/supports covered in a TSB.

Okay now to the problem at hand, I actually first experienced this last summer, 97 degrees out, sun beating down, after being stuck behind a wide load for 90 miles on I-75 doing 35 MPH, I finally got past it, speed up, and then the engine 'bogged down' like it had one cylinder turning. Got it pushed up an off ramp ( not fun) and coasted down hill to a gas station ( remember when gas stations had mechanics???) Tried to start it again and it would hit occasionally, but would "whomp whomp whomp" and stall. Waited an hour for a tow truck, and went out to put windows up because of a T-storm heading in, and for grins, turned the key. Started Fine, ran beautiful. Someone said I probably had bad gas in the lines, water, air etc, I said okay, and not being type to whine about miracles, rocked on.

Now this summer hits, and it happens again, engine does same thing, same issues, had a mechanic check it out at a little hole in the wall garage right next to where I coasted to a stop. He said it was bad gas from the response when I tried to start it, he hooked up a pressure gauge with a release tube to the vent, like a tires air vent connector on top of the engine foward of the Mustang logo, on your right side facing the front of car. PSI was 20, it went up with engine revs, and settled back to 20 on idle but he conveyed that seemed low ( he spoke no english, I speak no spanish, it was fun) but he drained out some fuel, and by now 30 minutes had passed and it fired right up. 87 degrees outside

Okay that was 2 days ago, today it repeats after being stuck in a traffic jam for an hour, but does it right in front of a friends house, so I coast to his place, let it sit an hour while we talk, then it fires up and runs fine. Today it was 87 degrees fondly farenheit also. I am started to see a trend, hot days, slow and/or stop and go driving.

Any suggestions, ideas, comments. Will be glad to trade computer help, since that is my area of expertise.
 

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With only 20 psi fuel pressure and it stalling after getting hot. I would definetly say fuel pump is shot. Heres the deal the pump is electric and in the tank. When it gets old and tired it heats up from the exrtra strain. Not a good idea when sitting in gas, so its made to cut off when it gets to hot. Then after you sit there a while and it cools down it resets itself and cranks again until it gets hot again. I would definetly get a 155lph at least if I were going to replace it. Hope that helps. Later
 

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32 psi fuel pressure is normal at idle...
40 is normal at wot...

check easy stuff first...
have you ever replaced the fuel filter?
check the fp regulator...
check all the electrical connections that drive the fuel pump...
then go for the fuel pump...
 

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had a similiar problem(actually almost exact), there is a tsb for faulty IAC valve, cost me $100 for the part, and five minutes time, pretty common on 96 there is an updated part from ford.
 
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