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Discussion Starter #1
So I've inherited a 93 notch with a built small block/powerglide. The thing is..the tranny was never installed. What I know I'm lacking is a starter, flex plate, converter and a 1350 8.8 yoke. The rear currently has 4.10 gears. The engine is 750 holley, vic jr intake, canfield 1.95's and a 590 solid lift cam.

My questions are..what flex plate and converter do i use? What's the best gear for the 1/8th? The glide has a jw bell already on it, hardened shafts and the 1.82 ratio. Thanks in advance.
 

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First of all you need to figure out if the motor is 28oz or neutral balanced as well as what tooth count flexplate the bell will accept, then I would get the JW "the wheel" flexplate once you have this information. The JW flexplate has both the Ford pattern as well as the Chevy convertor bolt pattern, and as long as you have a turbo splined input shaft you can run any GM convertor with the correct pilot spacer. My glide was a pain in the ass to get a starter to work, a stock one wouldnt work and neither would the powermaster part number that was supposed to have, I ended up with a CSI starter that had a 9 tooth pinion rather than the 11 tooth that the others had. Hope this helps
 

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You use a converter that matches the transmission. Some powerglides use a TH350 or TH400 input shaft, and if that's the case, you tell the converter builder-and he'll build it as such. If you have powerglide splines, you get a powerglide converter.

Flexplates. There are several. The JW "the wheel" plate has been known to crack at the ring gear welds. I do not know if JW has addressed that issue as of lately. Meziere makes a good one, and the PRW flexplate is the cheapest of all of them, and they seem to work well. Never had any problems with them. Make sure you get the right flexplate for your engine's balance (zero, 28oz, 50oz), and as mentioned, the correct tooth count for your bellhousing. The JW bell's are marked at the top, such as SBF-PG164 or SBF-PG157. There really is no benefit of one over the other (164 tooth or 157 tooth), they are both the exact same bellhousing but the starter holds are drilled differently. Most of the aftermarket flexplates are drilled for Powerglide/TH350/Th400 and also for Ford 4 stud converters, but it's always good to ask the seller. I get a lot of PG stuff and associated hardware from FTI and TSR. Both are fast, reasonable, and best of all they are racers and understand our needs as opposed to the Jeg's/Scummit salesepeople that are just phone jockeys (for the most part). FTI has a lot of informative videos on Youtube if you have some time to kill. He put one vid on there about how the torque converter works and what component does what, pretty cool.

The 1.82 will work but don't get real hard on it. Transbrake is probably considered no bueno with the 1.82 planetary. The 1.82 planetary is not nearly as strong as the 1.76 is-BUT it's lighter and sometimes a hundreth faster in a heavier and/or lower powered car. The dirt track guys use them exclusively over the heavier 1.76, at least around here.

I've always just used a stock style Ford starter. Most of the time, we just use the el-cheapo DB Electrical high torque PMGR starter, and it's cranking all of them fine. Can't beat it for the money. One or two of them, the bellhousings have been machined weird and the starter wouldn't line up properly. Easy fix.

That and the only other issue I've had with the JW bellhousing-seen one or two that needed offset dowels in the block to get it indexed properly. Just like a stick shift.
 

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A heads up - make sure whatever converter to crank pilot adapter you use fits properly. It should be a little snug on the converter, but slide easily all the way into the crank. Mine was mis-machined and was a little snug into the crank causing binding and wiped out a thrust bearing. Just fyi.
 

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A heads up - make sure whatever converter to crank pilot adapter you use fits properly. It should be a little snug on the converter, but slide easily all the way into the crank. Mine was mis-machined and was a little snug into the crank causing binding and wiped out a thrust bearing. Just fyi.
VERY good point!
 

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A heads up - make sure whatever converter to crank pilot adapter you use fits properly. It should be a little snug on the converter, but slide easily all the way into the crank. Mine was mis-machined and was a little snug into the crank causing binding and wiped out a thrust bearing. Just fyi.
This is also why you should also check to be sure you have at least .12 inch or so clearance from converter to flex plate when the converter is pushed back into the trans, and that it slides forward and tightens without bending the flex plate.

I just changed motors and had to shim my converter mounting pads with hardened washers to keep it from bending the plate. I had normal back clearance allowing for the shims.

Aftermarket stuff. :)
 

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That whole 1.82 myth is garbage. We have several bracket cars and currently have 3 in our fleet. My mustang has all aftermarket glide with 1.80 straight cuts. But I've ran 1.82s in a big tire 700hp big block car for years leaving at 4800 and turning 1.32 60' times. Then I've also years ago broke a set. In a little sbf small tire car like listed a set of 1.82 stock gear sets would never fail.
 

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I should have said "it's a little weaker"....instead of saying that it'll break. I ran one too for a while but lower powered deal, and it lasted a while. Only reason I changed to 1.76 was because I already had it, and was a little scared of the weaker/lighter 1.82. IIRC that was on dad's old Fairmont.

The 1.82's output shaft is also a little smaller, but uses the same drive shaft yoke. Worth mentioning, and a lot people forget about that.

Also the 1.82's planet axles (the pins that the planet gears ride on) are held in by a more or less sheet metal plate with 3 screws in it, where the 1.76's use a much larger diameter axle that is peened over on the end, it can't come out, period. Unless it's broken or ground off. I've had a few PG's apart and have actually seen screws missing from stock 4 and 6 cylinder 1.82 planetaries.

There's companies that buy used planetary sets and I generally sell 'em all of the useable 1.82's, and they remanufacture them and then sell them to dirt track guys exclusively. TCI used to sell a basic 1.82 powerglide but it was really not that well built, suited for VERY mild applications.
 

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I’m having trouble installing a Powerglide with pa profi bell. My convertor will not slide out or in with the adapter. Is it okay to not use it and get my convertor spacing with washers between the pads and flex plate?
 

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You really shouldn't run without the adapter. My adapter was tight both in the crank and on the converter. It lead to a wiped out thrust bearing. What I ultimately did was turn down the od of the adapter just a hair, had it spot welded to the converter and used anti-seize to keep it from binding in the back of the crank. My adapter was a JW piece, and they admitted it was mis-machined and sent me a new one (after the fact, unfortunately).
 

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Many times the adapter is too long, and the converter won't go far enough toward the engine to make it to the flexplate, requiring washers. I usually machine them down, either a grinder, belt sander, or better a lathe but not all of us have access to a lathe. The adapter is required if your converter don't have a screw-on pilot. The last BTE converter I got had a screw-on pilot, and they had the correct pilot to fit the Ford crank to the GM converter. Real slick! The only problem I had was that they sent me the pilot for the 1.850" early 460 crankshaft and not the 1.375" SBF size which is what I needed. They took care of it, though.
 
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