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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys!
I just installed cobra brakes front and rear on my Ranger, and after being in the rain the last few days, i've noticed the rotors are getting rust!
Now, i'm used to this on the surface where the pad touches (given its bare steel where they meet), but the hat area of the rotors are rusting too!

Is this a common problem? and is it okay to mask it off and paint the area with some BBQ/Stove paint? I think black would look good there.

Oh, and they are Brembo blank rotors just like factory cobras.

Thank you!
 

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this is very common, mine do this as well, i was very concerned at first but it'll be gone after you hit the brakes once or twice. Mine have been installed and doing it for over a year and they are A okay. No worries.
 

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Just paint the unswept areas with hi-temp aluminum paint.
 

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I think he just meant the color aluminum.


That's what color i painted my rotors. Aluminum color just makes it look like a clean, new rotor. You could paint them black if you really wanted.

I used hi-temp engine paint on mine. Mask the rotor's swept area with electrical tape (or anything else you have) and paint the rotor. If you spray the whole thing, the pads will take the paint off the swept area, but the edges will be jagged and rough. If you take the area, you'll have smooth clean edges.

I have pics, but my hosting site is down for a few days.


BTW, Brembo blanks ARE 99+ factory Cobra rotors
 

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how do you tape a circle? i thought most people just did it roughly and let the pads clean up the edges. where the hat turns to the disc how much room is there till the pad hits? about 4mm or so?
 

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You can tape a circle with lots of small pieces, or take a piece of cardboard and cut a circle out of it to use as a spraying template.
 

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how do you tape a circle? i thought most people just did it roughly and let the pads clean up the edges. where the hat turns to the disc how much room is there till the pad hits? about 4mm or so?


That's why i said use electrical tape. You can do the whole circle in 1 peice. It bends around curves very easily.

With cobra rotors, there is a good inch or so of hat materal between where the pad starts to touch.

I've painted the entire rotor and let the pads clean it up...the end result was a jagged edge. I ended up retaping the rotor to get a nice clean edge.
 

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i too didnt like the way the hats rusted, and wer never swept by the pads. so when i did my new cobra setup i ordered the rotor hats to be powdercoated front and back. they came out nice and havent had any issues so far from it. oh yeah i even had the outer lip done too.

 

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Alright, thanks guys! Looks like i have a project next time i'm home from college.
And i think i'll go for black engine paint....i'm going to be getting black fr500s in the spring, so that'll look good under there.
 

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I did mine silver



BTW, can you post pics of Cobra brakes on a ranger?? Was that an easy swap??
 

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I painted my last set with the stove black stuff and it worked okay. Wish I would have done the extra set I bought at the same time. My shed had a roof leak over the boxes and when I pulled them out to use them they were pitted and probably not usable. I just changed pads and left the old rotors on.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
BTW, can you post pics of Cobra brakes on a ranger?? Was that an easy swap??
Sure no problem. I always like whoring out my truck, haha:
Can't post pictures....it says i haven't been here long enough. Can someone show me the loophole??? lol, but seriously???....


And no it wasn't too bad of a swap. You have to machine your front hubs to accept the cobra rotor. Originally, the rotor and hub are one unit on the ranger, so you basically just cut the rotor off and use a chunk of aluminum to space the caliper out. It works great. And MAN ALIVE does my truck stop. You just regularly push on the brake pedal, and the front end just slams into the ground, lol. I need to weigh my truck, and see how light it is....
 
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